562XP Project - Who Likes Puzzles?

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Any opinion on Raisman bars? I will probably go with a Husky or Sugi Hara bar for the first saw, but looking for something cheaper for the second saw.

I did a search but didnt really find any info. They seem too cheap to be any good, but I haven't read anything negative from what I did find.
 
I would recommend a Tsumura bar for your main saw and pick up an Oregon bar for the second. You can find husky large mount Tsumura in the for sale section here. Lots of Oregon choices on Amazon.

For the 550xp the early saws had a 3 shoe, and later saws moved to 2 shoe. Mine has the 3 shoe which seems like it would be smoother and have better holding power.

Did the 562 make a similar switch or do you have a 550 clutch?
 
I would recommend a Tsumura bar for your main saw and pick up an Oregon bar for the second. You can find husky large mount Tsumura in the for sale section here. Lots of Oregon choices on Amazon.

For the 550xp the early saws had a 3 shoe, and later saws moved to 2 shoe. Mine has the 3 shoe which seems like it would be smoother and have better holding power.

Did the 562 make a similar switch or do you have a 550 clutch?
I was looking at the Tsumara bars. Found one for $42, which didnt seem too bad.
 
I was looking at the Tsumara bars. Found one for $42, which didnt seem too bad.
If you found a 20" lightweight Tsumara bar for 42 bucks BUY IT! Heck get 2 at that price! The last one I bought I paid 70 something bucks for. YES they are worth the extra cost. Ive had mine in some predicaments that would have made a pretzel out of an Oregon bar and it didn't hurt the tsumara at all
 
If you found a 20" lightweight Tsumara bar for 42 bucks BUY IT! Heck get 2 at that price! The last one I bought I paid 70 something bucks for. YES they are worth the extra cost. Ive had mine in some predicaments that would have made a pretzel out of an Oregon bar and it didn't hurt the tsumara at all
I'm not sure if it was a lightweight one or not. How are their standard bars?
 
Well I realized that the part holding me back from putting the second saw together was a seal on the flywheel side. However, that seal goes in from the outside. So I made a little more progress, and then learned something very important when building a 562xp. Put the parts on the cylinder before you put the cylinder on.

I have spent the last couple hours trying the squeeze screws and rubber boots through places, and I think I'm going to take it back apart tomorrow and try a different way.

It was frustrating enough that I miss working on my MS290.
 
If yer ignorant and stubborn like yours truly, you can get that little so-and-so intake bolt on without pulling the p and c. Take it from me, pulling and re-installing the p and c is probably faster, but it doesn't quite give you the same sense of victory as when you wrangle it into place.
 
If yer ignorant and stubborn like yours truly, you can get that little so-and-so intake bolt on without pulling the p and c. Take it from me, pulling and re-installing the p and c is probably faster, but it doesn't quite give you the same sense of victory as when you wrangle it into place.
I was able to get the lower screw installed, the problem I'm having is getting the plastic part that goes over the rubber boot that wouldn't fit after the cylinder is installed.

I will just take the cylinder back off.
 
Kids opened their presents and then I snuck to the shop.

Well taking the cylinder back off was definitely the way to go. I had it off, the parts assembled and back together is about 5 minutes.
20191225_101230.jpg
Got a few more things connected.
20191225_105835.jpg

Found put I'm missing the lower muffler bolts, and the fuel line was cut off, but not too many other issues.

As much trouble as it is to pull the carbs, I may just see about getting them flashed instead of trying to do the swap until i find the right combo. I just need to find somebody cheaper than i was told before.
 
Few updates....

I ordered a Tsumara 20" lightweight bar last night, and new Oregon chain, but they wont be in until January, so today I went out to my closest Husky dealer and picked up a Husky bar and chain which I will need for the second saw anyway. Also picked up a missing oil cap and flywheel nut.

I cant say I'm impressed with the parts guy though. I was looking at the T435 saw to see how it compared to my little Echo, and he said "that's a pro saw, it's way better than Echo" "not trying to offend you". Well I didnt ask for his opinion of my saw, and I haven't heard alot of great things about the 435, I just wanted to look at it.

Then when I asked him for a bar and chain he said "we have .050 and .058" and I said, it doesnt matter to me, whichever you have in stock. And he said "it does matter, your little wheel should say" to which I said, it doesnt just 3/8-7. And then he said "well it should say on the bar". I am trying to buy a bar moron! I dont have a bar to read off of.

Then when I asked for a worm gear for the oil pump he pulled up a parts diagram of the pull starter and asked me which part I needed.

Anyway, I am a few steps closer to firing these saws up. Still waiting on the flywheel side seal. Apparently everywhere is backordered.

And the parts needed to fire up saw 1 should be here tomorrow.

Here is saw 2 with her new bar and chain.
20191226_125919.jpg

I also ordered a full wrap handle that I will put on saw 1. Apparently the handle also got smashed when these saws were torn down. I was able to straighten the bent one, but it cracked in one spot and HL Supply had the full wrap kit with felling dogs on sale last night for $22.
 
I was out in the shop earlier looking at the saws to make sure I dont need anything else, and noticed the flywheel on saw 1 has a cracked fin.
20191227_191516.jpg

Question I have is, should I leave it alone? Break it off? Drill a hole at the end of the crack to keep it from spreading and leave it alone? Or replace the whole flywheel?
 

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