Beer Gut
A Fine Pilsner
If you lower the cylinder .010 to .015 does this change the timing? And is there an adjustment that needs to be made?
A MS440 ported from the factory???
- Thread starter blsnelling
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
If you lower the cylinder .010 to .015 does this change the timing? And is there an adjustment that needs to be made?
Those are real close to the numbers in my 066BB, and it's my go to stumping saw. It's 100% work saw.
You don't need to work about a thing with that little of a change. You're only talk about about 1-1.5 degrees. You're gaining a couple degrees of intake duration, loosing a couple degrees of exhaust, blowdown staying the same.
Last edited:
Seriously doubt that was advertised as a work saw:msp_scared:
Beer Gut
A Fine Pilsner
Learning here. But if the change would be more then that the piston still has the same travel and the cylinder ports would be opening and closing faster measured against the crank and eventually would cause a timing issue right? And how would you compensate by cutting the cylinder ports or changing the ignition timing? Bare with me if I don't make sense trying to learn things beyond the scope of where I've gone before.
Yes.
066 stihl
ArboristSite Operative
On a work saw you want the rpm's at 14,000 to 15,500 with alot of fuel.
The 031 was not a work saw, it was a racing saw. Yes, it would turn 19,000 or so. But, it had booster port cut in it. Had a homemade head on it, a cut down flywheel on it. 066 carb and intake boot. Build to run seconds.
066 stihl
The 031 was not a work saw, it was a racing saw. Yes, it would turn 19,000 or so. But, it had booster port cut in it. Had a homemade head on it, a cut down flywheel on it. 066 carb and intake boot. Build to run seconds.
066 stihl
This has nothing to do with ignition timing. TDC is always TDC. Tightening squish does not require port work. A change of .010" is only about 1 degree. It's just not a big deal.
rick ive learned that numbers in your saw or anybody elses saw may not work in the same saw of mine or someone elses. i know the numbers i use are off from what others use but they work for me as your numbers seem to work for you.
parrisw
Tree Freak
parrisw
Tree Freak
Do you log in close proximity to fuel?
Out here on the West Coast, Timber Cutters must carry everything in and out most of the time, or get dropped off on the side of a mountain via Helicopter, and that means having a somewhat fuel efficient saw, now I've build a few saws that were very thirsty and would not want to pack in on my back that amount of fuel it would take to feed that saw for a day of cutting.
This building a saw for fuel efficiency has always confused me. It seems to me that if a saw requires a certain amount of fuel to be tuned correctly, then the same saw requiring less fuel is making less power. So isn't it just a matter of making a less powerful saw?
This topic has come up before, Simons thread IIRC. I just never bothered to ask until now. What am I missing?
066 stihl
ArboristSite Operative
Well , the 2171 with a 54mm piston will cut and top 4 good trees. A stock 2171 will cut and top6 tree's.
A good running saw, makes the job more fun. If you run one a day you want go back to stock.
066 stihl
A good running saw, makes the job more fun. If you run one a day you want go back to stock.
066 stihl
my 372xpw averages 10 tress dropped and topped all the way out to 4'' and the trees average 24'' on the butt. theres a lot of folks that have run my xpw and know its a quick mean and nasty felling saw.
Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
Is this with blended lower transfers, meaning, blending to the case? Also, how thick are the keys on a 66 (I've never measured), is 20 thou about 1/2 a key?
