Muh Pannies is ina bunch cause you don't take no Floor Sweeper Applications.
Bradgina's stays Ina bunch
Nobody wants dentistry, so why would they want to pay for it when so many other things grab their attention away? Point being, though there are plenty of builders, I'm not sure you are competing against one another. I believe it benefits the community in a huge way to have an open repository of data ... maybe not anything super duper or concrete, but a good starting point, for a guy like me that is fine with getting say 70-80% of the gain that you could get without losing my mind
Mastermind did post the numbers you are looking for, at least once.
Thanks for posting this info. Mastermind. I have a question for you. I see the difference between the numbers of the stock saw and the ported saw. How much if any of the exhaust, transfers, and intake numbers change from just tightening up the squish without porting? Do you check the numbers again after setting squish before porting or is the change small enough that it doesn't matter. One other thing while I am asking dumb questions...is there a magic size of solder to use to check squish? Also, I have seen squish checked through the spark plug hole and I have seen where Folks dab grease on top of the piston and place solder in a north, east, south, west configuration. Is one better than the other. Mastermind, how did you come to those timing numbers? I am sure you will be able to explain but I fear not understanding it also someone else mentioned. I have the 51 on my bench but the single digit weather with wind chill has me out of my shed and in my house. Sheds not heated either. I think I would like to do as you mentioned and start a build thread and detail my struggles and learning's with text and pictures. First thing I need to do is get a degree wheel made and I think I should be off.
You'll find that's not always the case. Port a 346 with a higher exhaust like a 372, and it'll actually make less RPMs. I find that it's more a function of blowdown and intake duration. I take what the engineers gave us and simply improve it. The 660 is the only saw that I see a real need for lowering the exhaust.
All the more reason to not worry about exhaust height. Widen your intake and exhaust to 60-70% of the bore, if not limited by skirt width. Set your blowdown if you have a way of working the transfers. If you have a steady hand, a decent job can be done with a cutoff wheel in a Dremel flex shaft. You can alter you intake port timing with the intake skirt if not sure where you want to grind the port to. Several saws respond very well to advanced ignition timing.
I just need a guiding formula...and so far I've had some great advice .....but the advice is spread over the entire site...
