Air Compressor

[c5rulz]

Air compressors are great for blowing off dirty saws!

If all you want to do is inflate and blow things off, you can buy a 1 HP compressor at home centers, Sears, etc., for $90 - $120. they typically have a small (1 to 3 gallon) 'hot dog' or 'pancake' shaped tank. Sometimes they are offered in kits along with some basic air tools.

They will still generate 100+ PSI, which is fine, as most car tires are 35 PSI, and blow guns are safety limited at 30 PSI. These compressors will also operate most pneumatic air guns, nailers, staplers, etc., if you ever plan on using those around your shop.

The bigger compressors (more HP and bigger tanks) give you more volume. This is needed for larger air tools (die grinders, impact wrenches, drills, spray paint guns, etc.). If you don't plan on using those in your shop, you can save a lot of money, and get a smaller unit that takes up less space and is easier to carry between the basement and the garage.

Compressors are not recommended for inflating high pressure bicycle tires, as they tend to fill them too fast, causing them to explode. Also be careful cleaning out air filters, as you can blow off the flocking with high pressure air, creating leaks. Your saw's owner's manual probably recommends gently washing the filters in warm soapy water.

Philbeert

Great write up Philbert.




The only thing I would add is the direct drive, (oiless) drive me crazy because of the noise.


A small one like the OP is considering is probably OK on 110 volt. However when you get much bigger 220 volt is the way to go. On 220 they start instantly and the lights don't brown out. I've got a 220 volt 5hp Devilbiss. Probably bigger than I need but sure does the job.:msp_smile:

 

[Eccentric]

Great write up Philbert.




The only thing I would add is the direct drive, (oiless) drive me crazy because of the noise.


A small one like the OP is considering is probably OK on 110 volt. However when you get much bigger 220 volt is the way to go. On 220 they start instantly and the lights don't brown out. I've got a 220 volt 5hp Devilbiss. Probably bigger than I need but sure does the job.:msp_smile:

Yep. Not all direct drive compressors are oiless however. The little Makita that the OP metioned, plus my HF compressor are both direct drive, oil lubricated units. Most of the quality pancake/contractor compressors are direct drive, oil lubricated units too. They're not quite as loud as the direct drive oiless compressors, but far louder than the belt drive oil lubricated units.

I used to repair the oilless compressors at Sears. Those are LOUD!!! They also usually have bare alluminum cylinders, and thermoplastic piston seals on 'flat' pistons. NOT good for longevity IMHO. Any oil lubricated compressor with steel/iron rings (especially if it has a steel or iron cylinder liner) is much better.

 

[c5rulz]

Yep. Not all direct drive compressors are oiless however. The little Makita that the OP metioned, plus my HF compressor are both direct drive, oil lubricated units. Most of the quality pancake/contractor compressors are direct drive, oil lubricated units too. They're not quite as loud as the direct drive oiless compressors, but far louder than the belt drive oil lubricated units.

I used to repair the oilless compressors at Sears. Those are LOUD!!! They also usually have bare alluminum cylinders, and thermoplastic piston seals on 'flat' pistons. NOT good for longevity IMHO. Any oil lubricated compressor with steel/iron rings (especially if it has a steel or iron cylinder liner) is much better.

[Johny Carson] I did not know that [ Johny Carson]

Hmmm... Show what I know, signed Mr. Dumass.:bang:

 

[Eccentric]

[Johny Carson] I did not know that [ Johny Carson]

Hmmm... Show what I know, Mr. Dumass.:bang:

I wouldn't go that far my friend. Until the little two tank and 'pancake' contractor compressors came around in the early '90s, I don't think there were many direct drive oil lubed compressors around.

All the DD compressors (like the red tank Craftsmans I worked on) were oilless. Direct drive used to mean oiless (pretty much without exception) when it comes to compressors until somewhat recently. All the medium and large size oil lubed compressors are belt drive (except for the $$$$$$ screw type compressors).

There was somewhat of a market backlash against oilless (and therefore direct drive) compressors in the '80s. That's probably why the lighter/cheaper small direct drive oil lubed compressors (like my HF) came into the market. They largely cover the price point once covered by the oilless compressors.

 

[promac850]

3.2 hp 60 gallon Husky vertical tank...

Best damn compressor for the money... I kid you not. (unless you find a barely used Quincy or Curtis) It has no trouble at all running my home brewed soda blaster. 440 or so plus some change to plumb/wire it up. 10/2 was 60? bucks for 50 feet. Pipes and fittings totaled about 20, crappy POS plastic regulator was something like 40 bucks.

Sure, a CH compressor is not the same super high quality of a Quincy or Curtis, but you know what, it's a lot cheaper and with proper care it will last plenty long enough to keep a garage guy happy.


I'm also in the process of restoring (with the help of srcarr52, he's rebuilding the cylinder head for me) a freebie Curtis compressor pump that I drug home. It dates from 1918 to the early 1920's, and will be used in the building of another compressor that will be a backup... or if it performs well enough for most work and is even quieter, it might become my primary.

My pops still don't understand why I would go through the trouble of restoring/refreshing an old @$$ Curtis pump. Maybe he'll understand once I get it all rigged up and running. Part of it is due to the fact that it is an interesting relic from the days past.

 

[REJ2]

Got me a Porter Cable 6 gallon 150psi. pancake model with a brad nailer as an extra. For blowing off saws and airing up tires its perfect. Nailer is pretty cool too.

 

[naturelover]

Running a 1966 Curtis two stage 80gal here.

Heck of a compressor, still going strong after nearly 50 years. It ran two lifts, tire changer, air tools, and such for decades before I got it, and the only thing I've done to it is have the valves fixed and replaced the air filter. I was lucky enough to have a really good machinist turn down the valve seat, though, and lucky enough to get some parts for it.

Sounds cool with those disk valve clicking, is slow to pump up though, could need rebuilt, but am getting worried about the tank rusting. If it went, it would probably take the whole garage with it.

Still runs everything I have except for the IR 7" air grinder, have to wait for it to play catch-up with that.

If you even think you might at some point run air tools that require some cfm to run, I would probably get one like Shife has pictured, but if not, the pancake should do fine.

My dad bought an oil-less 30gal on clearance from Lowes and it a nice unit; loud, but works well. He is thinking of downsizing though, cause for what he does, its too big for him. He is looking at a pancake unit too.

I don't know what I'll replace the Curtis with if I ever need to, probably another Curtis or IR two stage..

 

[a. palmer jr.]

On that same note make sure you take into account the electrical needs of what you buy. I either need to run a 30 amp circuit for mine or rewire to 220v, as running down to the basement from the garage every time it trips the breaker is really annoying. The literature for mine claimed it would run on a 15 amp circuit. Fat chance of that as it draws a fuzz under 20 amps at startup. Once running a 15 amp circuit would run it just fine, but getting it running would be an issue.

It's not too hard to change the wiring nor too expensive. Most places are already wired for 220. My house was only wired for 120 when I moved in but had it all changed over and I'm glad I did.

 

[Stihl-Pioneer]

In my shop I have a 5HP 80 gal 17.5cfm 220V Emglo.

 

[Shife]

It's not too hard to change the wiring nor too expensive. Most places are already wired for 220. My house was only wired for 120 when I moved in but had it all changed over and I'm glad I did.

I really should wire the garage for 220v. At 160 lbs the compressor really isn't 'portable'. Might as well change the wiring on it. Need to dig up the diagram for the motor.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I really should wire the garage for 220v. At 160 lbs the compressor really isn't 'portable'. Might as well change the wiring on it. Need to dig up the diagram for the motor.

Plus, one of these days you might want a welder..

 

[ZeroJunk]

There are always three or four compressors on Craigslist around here, some larger ones cheap occassionally.