New to me (MS251c and MS180c): seeking the good to know

[thook]

I run a DCS 520 with 18” lo pro 3/8 chain. Would think a 20” bar would make it pretty nose heavey. That is a pro saw right up there with the 026/260 in weight and power. The 520 has better air filtration. Adjustable oiler. I would try to fix it up, sell off the Stihls and look for a good top handle saw for what you are describing. My not worth 2 cents.

I rebuilt the 520 a couple/few years ago, so it doesn't need fixing up. Starts and runs great long as the air filter is breathing good.
Yeah, it's a bit nose heavy with the 20", but I got it when I was cutting my firewood more and felling/bucking big trees more often. Since you mention it, though, I have been pondering putting the 18" bar back on it.
No....I don't think I'm gonna sell the Stihls. I get what you're saying, but after using a Stihl a logger friend of mine has, that's more up to date, I've been wanting to move in that direction myself. I don't recall the model....maybe a 360 something?.....but, it was stronger, faster, more comfortable to use for long periods. And, it wasn't that much heavier if even. He had a 20" bar and 3/8's chain (pretty sure). I just really liked how it balanced.
Edit: Why would you suggest a top handle? I used a 110 Mini Mac the very first year I started cutting my own firewood. It was all I had. That one is gone, but I have another someone gave to me a while ago. I've never run it. Just hung onto it. I think it weighs as much as my 520...lol

 

[thook]

Yes,I have used couple of small Echo chainsaws.All I have to say is that they are really great saws .
Thing is that they have kinda limited OEM and aftermarket parts and accessories,in comparison with Stihl ( or Husqvarna ) small chainsaws,as also the Echo parts & accessories are not always available.
But truly if Stihl OEM & aftermarket parts and accessories products were not readily available where I live and work ,
then Echo would have been my choice for sure.Great saws,indeed.

I've got an Echo weedeater. I love that thing!! And, interestingly, the guy that sold me this 251 quite prefers Echo saws over others, too.

 

[John Lyngdal]

I have three MS180 saws that are limbing and truck saws. The basic mods mentioned earlier really perk up the saw, but it's weakness is its clutch.
It will slip under heavy load and generate heat that will cause other issues. If you let the saw self-feed, that issue is avoided and it will serve you well.

 

[KostasVolos]

I have three MS180 saws that are limbing and truck saws. As basic mods mentioned earlier really perk up the saw, but it's weakness is its clutch.
It will slip under heavy load and generate heat that will cause outer issues. If you let the saw self-feed, that issue is avoided and it will serve you well.

+1000
Totally agree !
Keep the chain sharp and it's
depth gauges at appropriate level and never apply any form of pressure.Let the saw feed itself into the wood.

 

[thook]

I have heard, the laminated Stihl bars are said to be blue, from the factory, under the paint. The rails are hardened. And, I think that is true. The ES bars, with replaceable tip, are not that way.

Roy

I think you're right. I tried getting pictures, but they turned out poorly. Might look better on a computer if I can figure out how to get them here to forum. Nevertheless, the blueing isn't relegated to the bar groove. It's all over.

 

[thook]

Oh man!! Those those top handle saws look neat!! Same displacement as the 180, but I can see how they'd be nice to handle in tight brush and tangled fallen tree tops. Looked on Market Place. They sure are pricey. More than the MS310 going for $200. Hmmmm......

 

[billyboy]

I rebuilt the 520 a couple/few years ago, so it doesn't need fixing up. Starts and runs great long as the air filter is breathing good.
Yeah, it's a bit nose heavy with the 20", but I got it when I was cutting my firewood more and felling/bucking big trees more often. Since you mention it, though, I have been pondering putting the 18" bar back on it.
No....I don't think I'm gonna sell the Stihls. I get what you're saying, but after using a Stihl a logger friend of mine has, that's more up to date, I've been wanting to move in that direction myself. I don't recall the model....maybe a 360 something?.....but, it was stronger, faster, more comfortable to use for long periods. And, it wasn't that much heavier if even. He had a 20" bar and 3/8's chain (pretty sure). I just really liked how it balanced.
Edit: Why would you suggest a top handle? I used a 110 Mini Mac the very first year I started cutting my own firewood. It was all I had. That one is gone, but I have another someone gave to me a while ago. I've never run it. Just hung onto it. I think it weighs as much as my 520...lol

I wonder if you are missing the pre cleaner on your 520. Mine runs cleaner filter than my stihl 028S and my 036. My comments on the 181 and 250:may be out of line. I have run the 181 and it’s an ok saw for the money. I put a hyway/meteor cylinder and piston in my 036 that I got at auction for $170. $130 for new cyl/piston. I watched a mechanic buddy replace a cyl/piston in a 390 clamshell. It looked like a pain in the but.

I bought a Echo 360T for a $100, barely used. Really like it. Also have an old Homelite XL. $15 at auction, new drive sprocket, chain, carb kit, fuel and oil lines, cleaned up the bar oil System and it runs very well. Only 27 cc and pretty easy to work on. These two top handles and the 520 are the ones I reach for first. I’m an old fart with chemo residue, artheritis, and I don’t have the strength nor stamina of a 40 something. Sure as hell don’t want to carry around the 036/20” bar all day. The echo 360 is a great limber , brush cutter. I run 14” both top handles. I ran a stihl 42 cc, 028 first edition, for at least 15 years, only saw I had. Cut about 6 chords/year. Cut stuff way bigger than an 18“. Bar.

I have heard good things about the 3000 or 3400 series echo top handles. Also the old green Poulan 2000 or 2500 model. Not sure which models but if you search the forum you might find some info on them. I don’t cut enough to justify a $700 stihl 201T

 

[thook]

I wonder if you are missing the pre cleaner on your 520. Mine runs cleaner filter than my stihl 028S and my 036. My comments on the 181 and 250:may be out of line. I have run the 181 and it’s an ok saw for the money. I put a hyway/meteor cylinder and piston in my 036 that I got at auction for $170. $130 for new cyl/piston. I watched a mechanic buddy replace a cyl/piston in a 390 clamshell. It looked like a pain in the but.

I bought a Echo 360T for a $100, barely used. Really like it. Also have an old Homelite XL. $15 at auction, new drive sprocket, chain, carb kit, fuel and oil lines, cleaned up the bar oil System and it runs very well. Only 27 cc and pretty easy to work on. These two top handles and the 520 are the ones I reach for first. I’m an old fart with chemo residue, artheritis, and I don’t have the strength nor stamina of a 40 something. Sure as hell don’t want to carry around the 036/20” bar all day. The echo 360 is a great limber , brush cutter. I run 14” both top handles. I ran a stihl 42 cc, 028 first edition, for at least 15 years, only saw I had. Cut about 6 chords/year. Cut stuff way bigger than an 18“. Bar.

I have heard good things about the 3000 or 3400 series echo top handles. Also the old green Poulan 2000 or 2500 model. Not sure which models but if you search the forum you might find some info on them. I don’t cut enough to justify a $700 stihl 201T

Out of line? Nah.....but, you did have a great suggestion for a top handle. I'm looking at an MS192t in MO for $200 obo or trade.

 

[thook]

Got some better pics, I hope. They are to follow....
Called the Stihl dealer in town. Guy says I'll have to buy a kit including the regular style cover plus six other parts to convert the 251 from the quick adjuster. Otoh, just for a 251c style cover, drum sprocket, and one chain is around $115. That's if I don't need some little wing nut he mentioned......?????
What do I need, then? Here's pics.....

Edit: After some lookin' up, the guy must mean the big washer. He did say wing nut, but whatever. I see kits for the drum sprocket that come with a big washer..... not a wing nut.

 

[thook]

Here's some guide bar pics....
You can see the blue, but I guess that's normal from what irhunter says. The flat area is right there on the top side at the tip. Inconsequential maybe, but the other side looks more rounded. And, I don't know how well you can see the edges. A filing might clean that up?
ps. The guy at the dealer says he's never had any real issues with the quick adjusters on the "C" series saws. ie. no customers have complained and seem to be quite robust and reliable. I'm thinking I should put it together and assess after I've used it for a bit.....see if I like the quick ajdust or not after that.

 

[thook]

I wonder if you are missing the pre cleaner on your 520.

Yes, the prefilter is there. Had to double check it wasn't damaged beyond my notice. It's fine, though.

 

[thook]

Well, shucks.....after looking around I'll be into this 251 for at least $200 total to get it operational.....including the $75 I paid already for the powerhead. I hope that turns out to still be a good investment. I could'a gotten one already running one for less. <<<<pfffth>>>>

 

[KostasVolos]

Stihl Quick chain tensioner/adjuster system = junk !
And keep in mind that I'm an orange blooded,kool-aidholic ,Stihl type of guy .

A) It gets clogged most of the times.
B ) Needs constant lubrication to operate smoothly.
C) I was never able to precisely adjust the chain with that thing .
D) Takes forever to remove /install
bar and chain .
E ) Can give you the worst thumb pain ever ..

Yes ! It is both a pain in the @ss... and thumb !
Although I 've met few that really like it .
But once you already have it ,
then try and decide for yourself .

 

[thook]

Stihl Quick chain tensioner/adjuster system = junk !
And keep in mind that I'm an orange blooded,kool-aidholic ,Stihl type of guy .

A) It gets clogged most of the times.
B ) Needs constant lubrication to operate smoothly.
C) I was never able to precisely adjust the chain with that thing .
D) Takes forever to remove /install
bar and chain .
E ) Can give you the worst thumb pain ever ..

Yes ! It is both a pain in the @ss... and thumb !
Although I 've met few that really like it .
But once you already have it ,
then try and decide for yourself .

Well, actually I'm feeling reluctant to put money into any kind of system only to find I think it sucks, too. I talked to my logger friend earlier this morning and this weekend I'm taking that little 180 to him and have him get it going and tune it. I'm also going to have him do the little mod's you guys suggested. He's done it plenty on some of his saws. I mean, I could get it running and do the muffler myself, but I suck at tuning. So, easier just to have him do it all. Since the 180 has the EZ adjust, that'll be the opportunity to use and decide for the 251. Just means I gotta be a litttle more patient on getting to use it.

 

[thook]

Found a couple vid's on YT to convert the 251c to a regular adjuster, and apparently there's a kit/s to do so. However, on ebay, I'm seeing two different types of clutch covers. Seeing as how there's a torx bit bolt to secure the quick style adjuster plate, is there a way to convert that to a stud, instead? Or, do I just need to go with the single hole/stud cover? Seems like two studs would be better
ps. That two hole cover on the right is less than $10. None of the quick adjust covers on ebay are less than $30 with shipping. So, not only the conversion be a better system, but potentially cheaper

 

[thook]

Oh, and what do y'all think of the condition of that drum sprocket? Looks engh to me, but does it still have life?

 

[Bubster]

I always liked the 025 and 250 better than the 251. But either way, great little saws for the money. If you ever change starter rope, make sure you get the same diameter and length that was stock.

 

[KostasVolos]

Found a couple vid's on YT to convert the 251c to a regular adjuster, and apparently there's a kit/s to do so. However, on ebay, I'm seeing two different types of clutch covers. Seeing as how there's a torx bit bolt to secure the quick style adjuster plate, is there a way to convert that to a stud, instead? Or, do I just need to go with the single hole/stud cover? Seems like two studs would be better
ps. That two hole cover on the right is less than $10. None of the quick adjust covers on ebay are less than $30 with shipping. So, not only the conversion be a better system, but potentially cheaper

The MS171,MS181,MS211,
MS231 & MS251 will have a side cover with a single stud ,if you convert them from EZ adjust to the good ol'scewdriver side adjuster .No extra stud here in a
conversion kit .

The MS 170 & MS 180 have a cover with two studs .
The conversion kit should provide the missing stud ( unscrew the torx screw and install the stud in place )

 

[thook]

The MS171,MS181,MS211,
MS231 & MS251 will have a side cover with a single stud ,if you convert them from EZ adjust to the good ol'scewdriver side adjuster .No extra stud here in a
conversion kit .

The MS 170 & MS 180 have a cover with two studs .
The conversion kit should provide the missing stud ( unscrew the torx screw and install the stud in place )

Do you have a part number for the conversion kit for the 251? I've been looking online and I'm sure my search terms are the problem as I'm not finding anything, yet. I did talk to the local Stihl dealer, but I'm trying to find a price comparison.

 

[sonny580]

I bought a 251 at auction,---got it home and JUNK! locked up ,bearings out, melted plastic and cant get the clutch off. got most everything else off. Was going to try fixing it but until the clutch comes off its at a standstill. I paid WAY too much for it too!! LOL!! anyway I got two 250's one 025, one 041 one 009L and a 011avt.
most of them work fine. the 011avt has starter dog problems but not locked up.