? Are Husky XP 394 parts compatible with 395 parts?

[Axeman 2.0]

Hello saw dudes (& dudettes); New guy here. I am curious as to whether 395 parts are compatible with an older XP 394 (circa 1995?). I am aware carbs and manifolds are not the same, but am more curious re: cylinder assembly (i.e. any diffs in stroke length, internal details which might cause any internal grief. I wish to rebuild/optimize mine for a mill project. Bought mine used but has not failed to impress with its power. * Two other issues someone may have input on: 1) It doesn't like being turned on it's side/being tipped over prior to starting it - seems to flood???? Restarting after warm is usually OK. 2) Gas cap is screamin' hard to get off - I have to use a wrench to remove. Hoping newer caps are better if I must replace. Have used with an Alaskan mill with success but am now building a more elaborate, designed from the ground up, dedicated chainsaw mill. I hope to proudly post pics/vid when completed. Thanks for any help.

 

[Ketchup]

394 cylinders have dual transfers and a hard block intake/carb setup. 395 has quad transfers and rubber boot intake/carb system. Otherwise all parts interchange. The 395 makes slightly more power, but not enough to warrant swapping out a good 394 jug.

If milling, add a secondary muffler port and deflector or equivalent outlet increase to help with the heat. Check your clutch often for signs of slippage (excess or uneven wear, heat discoloration) and be generous with bar lubricant. I recommend an auxiliary oiler for 36” or larger bars. Tune the carb a smidge rich. Check the spark plug occasionally. White is bad(lean), tan-brown is what you want, black and gunky is too rich.

Not sure on your flooding issue. I suspect either the tank vent is leaking into the carb box or the carb itself is due for new diaphragms and a cleanup. Some of the shaft linkages in the carb have screws that can come loose. Check those at the same time.

I milled with my 394 for about 3 years as a hobby. Eventually a crack developed in the intake block, the saw took off and detonated while I was cutting mill slab bundles. The jug was ruined so I rebuilt the whole saw with a 395 jug and converted to a rubber intake. There is an OEM kit to do this if you need to. The 395 is a solid mill saw but the clutch can slip and overheat. Let the saw idle between cuts a bit for heat. I wouldn’t do many consecutive cuts with a bar larger than 42”.

Hope that is helpful.