I'm not sure of your point?
The point is until the few of you guys start seeing damage on your own stuff its just the bogie man to you.
I'm not sure of your point?
E10 will not go bad in 2 months under normal conditions. Sounds like your dealer both raped and misinformed you!
Chevy! Ford! Dark Beer! Light Beer!
Disturbs me that my uncle who has been a GM dealership mechanic for over 30 years is seeing more and more "poor fuel quality" issues in vehicles pre 2010 than he ever has. We all understand that alcohol burns hotter and drier than gasoline. Many manufacturers of small engines invalidate warranty for anything over 10% ethanol(O.K. they have LOTS of reasons to void warranty).
There are things we can control and things we cannot. We remove cat mufflers to reduce combustion chamber heat and gain exhaust flow. We argue the best chain, best 2 cycle oil, best bar lube- why not try to put a little effort into running above average fuel?
I run premium grade, fresh(under 30 days) fuel from major brands- Shell mostly but avoid the convenience store multibrands. But if a little extra effort can improve the life of my saw/trimmer? Maybe worth the peace of mind to me.
Good to hear people get good results form the Autotune. Maybe it can save me from myself or my saw from the evil E
Bill
Look's like I didn't remember the facts right on the price of the repair as it was a couple years back Brad. I pulled the reciept for the repair and it was $155 total. He only charged me $69 for the carb. The rest was filter,plug,carb kit, and labor. In any case if anyone would see an uptick in volume of repairs you would think it would be a dealer. I probally just got a hold of real crap gas.
Bill, I suspect your uncle sees more fuel related issues because of the cleaning affect of the ethanol, at least that's what I've seen in my shop. The same might be true of high detergent oils. I spent 40+ years with GM, the problems we saw were almost always related to any change in the fuels & lubricants that "broke something loose" that the previous product didn't. Some of the previous products contributed to the buildup of material and only needed a good cleaner to get it flowing and moving into some area that it could plug up, causing problems.
As products develop and change, the manufacturers aren't always as concerned as they should be about compatibility, especially with high mileage vehicles. The engineering & reverse coverage is good, as long as the original power unit was well maintained and kept clean per design standards.
That said, it still doesn't mean somebody won't have failure from a 'new & improved' product. :msp_confused:
All you guys have to do is search ethanol on just about any OPE manufacturer and they will have a bulletin warnings and recommendations for the new junk ethanol. Quality OPE usually has BETTER rubber and fuel system components and will last longer, however ethanol is a very strong cleaning agent. It will dissolve rubber, cork and many other "seals, diaphrams and gaskets". Marine fuel is the only place where ethanol cannot be sold due to reliability issues. And the "life risk" as the government states it, as being stranded on open water can be life critical. Same reason Alaska does not have any ethanol anywhere, nor does aviation industry. Phase separation and fuel break down all comes down to brand, blended additives and container you store it in. Metal and fully sealed like our race gas drums and storage containers. Plastic leaches and doesn't seal well along with vented gas caps. Also if you live in an area that has frequent temp and humidity swings, like frost or morning dew on a regular basis. These areas will see more fuel problems. Most manufacturers state on buy or prepare what you will use in 21 days or less. As here in Michigan 91 octane can fall to 87 or less in just a month. A simple test was done with a half full tank of gas (10 gallon tank) drivin from detroit to Munising in the UP resulted in 14 ounces of water absorbing into the tank with a typical ORV vented cap. Ask your dealer for their bulletins, as I see both stihl and Husqvarna took them off of the site, and there is very careful mention of ethanol and replaced with additives or pour quality fuel. The actual stihl one i picked up saturday said it was illegal to run ethanol in OPE now, as it is a fire safety hazard. It is a 4 page bulletin with pics. I also came across a site that i cannot link here for some reason, but its a news article about the EPA warning manufacturers on how they "warn or inform their consumers" about ethanol. Approved language and what they can and cannot say. And I also had no idea there was a big 40 cent per gallon ethanol subsidy. If someone can post up some of these bulletins, please do so, as many are disappearing off the net. All the manufacturer links or bulletins on stabils site are no longer there or I cant find them.....
STIHL Incorporated USA -- Information -- Manufacturing the World's Number One Selling Brand of Chain Saws
You can skip ethanol in your lawn gear for a price
FEDERAL ACTION TO ALLOW MORE ETHANOL IN GASOLINE COULD DAMAGE MOTORCYCLES: | News | Motocross Action Magazine
EPA
Maunufacturer Ethanol E10 Fuel Warnings and Precautions.
Warning Signs: Time to End the Ethanol Rip-Off
I just came in from running my 576 AT and I noticed at part throttle it would really 4 stroke like crazy. I hadn't noticed my other saws doing this very much? I know the mixture is not correct on a traditional saw unless at idle or wide open throttle. So is the Auto Tune providing the correct mixture all the time? Maybe?
Has anyone else made this observation?
My Dolmar dealer had some complains over the Husky Autotune. He doesn't think they're worth the trouble they cause in the long run, and at surface level IMO it seems a kind questionable.
I know its a new thing, but I'm not use to new ideas.
Does it really work so for? It seems up in the air to me....
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