Back In The Shop......Now What's On Your Bench????

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Found the problem with the 039 and the 361. The 039 had a kinked fuel line right beside the carburetor where I couldn't see it, dang Chinese fuel lines, and the 361 really had me stumped but when I was checking it out the last time I noticed the impulse line dangling beside where it was supposed to be. I stuck it on and the saw ran like a new one. I'm leaving the new carb on it, so I guess I have a spare, kinda surprised it ran at all without the pulse hose attached..
 
What's on my bench? After paying $1,225.41 to Alaska Commercial Company to rebuild the front end and rear suspension and install a new track on my 2007 Arctic Cat 570, something in the chaincase came apart about five miles below Bethel on the river. Wife drive the truck, I drive my 800 RMK, were going to pull the AC to the trail where I would then winch it onto the trailer wife had attached to the truck. Too much water and got dark so turned back and will do it in the morning.
Would like to say the Kimpex gas shocks I put on the machine, with the all new everything in the sleds front end made it feel like a Cadillac on the Turnpike. Until it went CRUNCH, and stopped.
I'll take a couple chainsaws in case I have to cut it from the ice.
 
homelite1.jpghomelite2.jpg


Finally got the 550 back together. Have to replace an oil line and it should be good to test fire. I used threebond 1184 to seal the tank halves, replaced the machine head screws with allen type bolts. Hoping it sealed well. Up next is a ms260, hoping to remove the base gasket and widen the ports.
 
How is the quality of that Chinese stuff ? I've seen loads of it for sale on ebay .
We've been discussing it on other threads but it seems some like 'em, some don't. I've had an issue with some fuel lines on the 029 saws that didn't work, they kink, shutting off the fuel, I've had good, short term success with engine parts, especially carburetors but haven't done a long term test on them yet. I have an MS250 that I'm using from time to time that is full of AM parts that I'm testing longer term and so far so good. I've done a product evaluation on the 029 fuel lines, I'll see if I get a response..
 
ms260 piston.jpg

Finally got to run the homie today. Everything sealed up well and it ran great! Now I have this 260 sitting on my bench I am debating on whether I should replace the piston or not. It has some light scaring (shown). I can barely feel them with my fingernails and there is no aluminum transfer in the cylinder. The saw ran great before disassembled. I just feel like removing the base gasket and possibly widening the ports to get some more uumph out of it. Thoughts?
 
I would always try to clean a saw thoroughly before disassembling it, keeps dirt out of the crankcase. Unfortunately, some saws I get are basket cases which weren't cleaned so it's a little more difficult to sanitize but I try. I know you can rinse it out later but I prefer it not get in there in the first place.
 
I would always try to clean a saw thoroughly before disassembling it, keeps dirt out of the crankcase. Unfortunately, some saws I get are basket cases which weren't cleaned so it's a little more difficult to sanitize but I try. I know you can rinse it out later but I prefer it not get in there in the first place.

I made sure nothing fell into the case. Shortly after the pic, I stuffed a rag around the rod in the case and blew everything off and wiped it down. If I am going to widen the ports, smooth out the bottom transfers and delete the gasket, would it be beneficial to smooth out the casting edges in the windows of the piston?
 
View attachment 475568

Finally got to run the homie today. Everything sealed up well and it ran great! Now I have this 260 sitting on my bench I am debating on whether I should replace the piston or not. It has some light scaring (shown). I can barely feel them with my fingernails and there is no aluminum transfer in the cylinder. The saw ran great before disassembled. I just feel like removing the base gasket and possibly widening the ports to get some more uumph out of it. Thoughts?

The skirt of the piston is only there to stabilize the crown and keep the rings perpendicular to the bore.

Since your scaring is only on the skirt and not in the ring groove area, I would scuff it lightly with red scotchbrite after stuffing the case and isolating any abrasive from falling into the crankcase. I would then run it without worry
 
I have an 030 torn down. Weak spark. A nice blue one but won't jump a gap reliably. Tried a wima cap after testing and setting all the basics. Leaning towards a coil and not wanting to Invest anything it. Ugh.
 
The skirt of the piston is only there to stabilize the crown and keep the rings perpendicular to the bore.

Since your scaring is only on the skirt and not in the ring groove area, I would scuff it lightly with red scotchbrite after stuffing the case and isolating any abrasive from falling into the crankcase. I would then run it without worry
I am in far worse trouble now unfortunately. Earlier when trying to remove the flywheel retainer nut the end of the crank snapped off. It had been cracked for quite some time seeing as half of the break was rusted. Anyone have any luck with am cranks?
 
I made sure nothing fell into the case. Shortly after the pic, I stuffed a rag around the rod in the case and blew everything off and wiped it down. If I am going to widen the ports, smooth out the bottom transfers and delete the gasket, would it be beneficial to smooth out the casting edges in the windows of the piston?
Wouldn't hurt to get rid of burrs if there are any but I wouldn't remove too much material for fear of affecting balance.
 

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