It's a 2 speed overdrive with the 5 speed manual. 9 forward and 2 reverse.
Yes it is.
Yeah I need to see if they find a bad injector causing it.
breaking her in properly
- Thread starter kjp
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It's a 2 speed overdrive with the 5 speed manual. 9 forward and 2 reverse.
Yes it is.
Yeah I need to see if they find a bad injector causing it.
jimmycrackcorn
ArboristSite Operative
WHAT! Oh man that is radical! Totally cool! I've been wondering about a setup like that for years. I'm confused though, how do you get 9 forward out of 5 + 2?
This is all inside one transmission that will bolt up to a lightweight cummins truck?
It's a bolt on at the back of the transmission or transfer case on a 4x4. You don't split 1st gear in the manual and it gives you a higher reverse.
http://www.gearvendors.com/dmanual.html
jimmycrackcorn
ArboristSite Operative
Why have i never heard of this company, are they new? I checked out there options & must say, that is quite amazing! Back when i used to do towing & recovery, the owners of these companies would have loved to utilize something like that in the small wreckers, simply for the mpg gain alone. Especially on the repo side with alot of unloaded highway driving tracking things down.
I'm interested to hear from anyone that actually has a GV unit installed and has some miles on it. From what I know, it doesn't work in 4WD and needs its oil supply changed ever 5k miles. Someone else was making an OD unit that went between the transmission and transfer case which worked in 4WD but they stopped making it so the GV is the only unit made at this time.
jimmycrackcorn
ArboristSite Operative
5k isn't a very long interval at all, is that correct? I couldn't find any info on that, yet.
As far add the 4x4 goes... I believe it is due to the nature of the design. If it didn't lock you out / shut off when engaged, it would tear s@#% up. It would be like running two different Axel ratios in your front & rear.. That scenario doesn't really hurt things when all 4 have 0% traction but as soon as you regain it your braking stuff. What would break, it would most likely be your transfer case. They mentioned something about a "inbetween kit" under there 4x4 section but with the way they wrote it & the language they used, it was difficult to understand. You would think with the way they explained the "inbetween kit", it would go before the transfer case & enable 4x4 gear splitiing capabilities, but i couldn't find the actual product. I also am not an expert on the topic, so maybe it was right there in front of me.
That's just my take on how it works, im definitely looking into these though.
Here's the page about 4x4.
Correct. Because the GV unit is after the transfer case, there would be a huge difference in drive shaft speeds. It has a lockout that will only let it engage when your truck is in 2WD, so there isn't any worry about engaging it at the wrong time.
I have a 2000 F-350 dually with 4:10 gears that I plan on keeping for a long time. One of these OD units sure would make it a lot more pleasant on the highway when unloaded or with a light load.
I have a 2000 F-350 dually with 4:10 gears that I plan on keeping for a long time. One of these OD units sure would make it a lot more pleasant on the highway when unloaded or with a light load.
jimmycrackcorn
ArboristSite Operative
Say, when your running @ 65mph, what are you turning for RPM's? I'm trying to sell my 97 & get into a newer rig. A late model 7.3 is on the list of options to replace with as I'm really trying to avoid a 6.0, but if the newer 7.3's still turn the same highway RPM's im not so sure i would want one again. I have 4:10's also, i can't remember whether they run lower rpms on the highway as when i drove the newer ones it wasn't on my dime..LOL.
jimmycrackcorn
ArboristSite Operative
2500rpm with 255! Dang! I think that's higher than what I get with 4:10's. I think I'm at 2300rpm with them, which is pretty high IMO.
Did you put in the 2:55's?
Ive always thought the lower the gear ratio denominators the lower highway rpms you will get, in thus it's a tall gear. The higher the gear ratio denominators the worse highway rpms, in thus it's a short gear. How do i explain this... I think rear end gearing is a mind f@#% to most ppl, higher numbers are low gearing, low numbers are high. For example, 4:10, 4:30's will scream on highway & 2:35 - 2:55's would lug nice & low. At least that's the impression I've been under for the last 17years.. Lol
I believe he means 255/85 tires and 235/85. I was trying to figure out how he was doing that for a minute and it hit me.
jimmycrackcorn
ArboristSite Operative
Yeah, lol.. me too, I thought the same for a second.. but tire width isn't going to change rmps..
235/85 is about 31" tall and 255/85 is a little over 32". It's an aspect ratio so either that changes will change it some. A 285/70/17 is 32.5" and a 285/75/17 was 34" tall. Worked good for dropping rpm for highway driving.
jimmycrackcorn
ArboristSite Operative
What? Really? Never knew... Why don't companies specify that? Im suprised no tire guys have mentioned that to me when shopping for sizes. I wanted to go wider with an 85 series but they all have said there isn't anything that's e rated wider than the 235/85/16. The guys all say I have to get into a 265/75/16 but then warn of mpg loss, so then we get into the mpg conversation & what you've stated never comes up. I think I need to shop elsewhere. Is that 255/85 made in a 16? E rated of course..
jimbojango
ArboristSite Guru
a 265/75/16 is the exact same hieght as a 235/85. bet me and i'll win.. every time. a 265/70/17 is the exact same height as well.
My truck came with the 255/85R16's on it, but that size is no longer available in anything but a mud tire which I don't want or need. Plus...with the stock rims the tires are pretty close together. I have to keep up on tire pressure to make sure the dual tires don't rub together. So...back to 235's. Plus...the current tires are only D rated, though they have been fine because it's a dually. If the truck was SRW...the tires would be lacking.
jimmycrackcorn
ArboristSite Operative
Say, R2D2.. What would it take to put OEM 19-5's on your dual 350? Can you do it with out hassle?
jimmycrackcorn
ArboristSite Operative
Speaking of tires!! I assume you went with the d-rated because they were cheaper?? Well.. I don't know what your opinion of Re-Treads are but there are these guys who specialize in passenger retreads, they do all sorts of sizes, big 38in mudder's, highway, all season, e rated, etc. I've read some in depth, prolonged reviews about there durability, wear, ride quality & performance. All A+ feedback. I've also heard they stand behind their product too, if there is a bad one or blowout down the road, they will replace. I think it's the one case where the saying, "you get what you pay for" doesn't fit. There is significant savings to be had with them especially with the dually guys. As far as I know, there are only two companies certified & federally approved to manufacture/sell passenger re-treads.
The companies are-
https://www.treadwright.com/
&
http://www.tirerecappers.com/
One of them does free shipping with 4 tires & at the same time they do it with out being more expensive than the other guy. Both have similar lines, both have similar dedicated winter options for each tire model they make. I almost pulled the trigger on a set of winters before I decided to stop putting $$ into my truck & sell it. I can confidently say I will buy from them on my next truck. I will buy a set of winters, a set of highways & most likely only spend what it cost for one set of premium over priced tires. Seriously, check em out.
