Do I need to replace the bar? Another newbie question.

[sshangreaujr]

Oh, OK, no dealer readily available. Gotcha! Haha!

Ok, first try the sharpened chain. It would be "best" if you can have the chain ground by a pro so that the tooth length and rakers are even all the way around the chain.

I didn't say anything about the rakers (depth gauges) before. They need to be about 25 thousandths of an inch below the top of the cutters. If one side is deeper (shorter) than the other, your chain will cut crooked. In your case the ones on the right side of the chain would be shorter than those on the left, as your chain is cutting to the left.

Here is how to tell if your bar needs to be ground so that both "rails" are even. You will need an accurate square. A try square would be the one I would use, but a combination square would be fine too. A carpenter's square would be pretty big, but might be ok.

Put the square on the side of the bar, and hold it tight to the rails of the bar. The rails should both touch the edge of the square. If one of the rails is shorter than the other, the higher of the two needs to be ground down to the level of the shorter.

You can use a bench grinder, an angle gringer, or even a belt sander ( if you are good with it). Of course your level of skill will determin your success.

Good luck!

Bob

Thanks again Bob. I used a combination square and determined conclusively that the rail on the bottom left side of the bar was indeed lower than the other rail. I also checked by attempting to stand the bar on a flat, level table. It fell to the left 3 times indicating that the bottom left rail was worn more than the right. The top side of the rails are even. However, I had already ordered a new chain and just today ordered a new bar. So far as that 038av is concerned, the bar and chain are no longer a problem. Anyway, now I would like to fix the old bar myself and sharpen the old chain myself. We no longer have a "pro" in the area and I would very much like to be able to do it all myself. (Also, I bought a book about 2 cycle engines and will learn that part also.) I've heard from several people now that it is "better" or "easier" to first learn how to do it by hand and then on a grinder. Is this true? If so, can I effectively sharpen a chain with some relatively inexpensive equipment. Is the $22 or so edge sharpener on Bailey's a good enough tool for me or so I need to invest more. Also, I have read mixed reviews about the various chain sharpening kits available. Any suggestions? I thank you all so very much!

 

[Sagetown]

Thanks again Bob. I used a combination square and determined conclusively that the rail on the bottom left side of the bar was indeed lower than the other rail. I also checked by attempting to stand the bar on a flat, level table. It fell to the left 3 times indicating that the bottom left rail was worn more than the right. The top side of the rails are even. However, I had already ordered a new chain and just today ordered a new bar. So far as that 038av is concerned, the bar and chain are no longer a problem. Anyway, now I would like to fix the old bar myself and sharpen the old chain myself. We no longer have a "pro" in the area and I would very much like to be able to do it all myself. (Also, I bought a book about 2 cycle engines and will learn that part also.) I've heard from several people now that it is "better" or "easier" to first learn how to do it by hand and then on a grinder. Is this true? If so, can I effectively sharpen a chain with some relatively inexpensive equipment. Is the $22 or so edge sharpener on Bailey's a good enough tool for me or so I need to invest more. Also, I have read mixed reviews about the various chain sharpening kits available. Any suggestions? I thank you all so very much!

Proper proceedure is the key to a sharp sawchain. One can develope bad habits without someone, or something, to guide him. Learning the correct angle, and pressure of the file, and not over filing is important. A simple sharpening jig can be very benificial in learning how to file by hand. Here is an old Sears jig that I use occasionally.

 

[RVALUE]

My dad has a jig similar to that one that is as old as I am. It does a great job.

I have two new jigs similar to that one, that wouldn't sharpen at all, due to the under engineering of the parts.

At our GTG we concluded some screws etc. were too short (from the factory) and with some modification, it should work as well as the old ones.

So in summary, those jigs need a bit of setting up in order to do a stellar job.

 

[Sagetown]

My dad has a jig similar to that one that is as old as I am. It does a great job.

I have two new jigs similar to that one, that wouldn't sharpen at all, due to the under engineering of the parts.

At our GTG we concluded some screws etc. were too short (from the factory) and with some modification, it should work as well as the old ones.

So in summary, those jigs need a bit of setting up in order to do a stellar job.

I wouldn't be a very happy camper if I found out some large corporation sold me one of those, knowing I'd have to make adjustments so it'd work right. But, then again, look at all the mods we do to new chainsaws. Crazy aint it.:msp_rolleyes:

 

[Mill_wannabe]

Good job on determining the bar has an issue. The only concern with trying to fix that bar is if you ground so much off that the groove was no longer deep enough to contain the drive link.

I think it's much easier to learn to sharpen on a new chain. All the angles are correct and you are not compensating for previous poor sharpening or damage. Don't be afraid to work with your new chain first and get some experience before you try and correct the old chain.

 

[RVALUE]

Good job on determining the bar has an issue. The only concern with trying to fix that bar is if you ground so much off that the groove was no longer deep enough to contain the drive link.

I think it's much easier to learn to sharpen on a new chain. All the angles are correct and you are not compensating for previous poor sharpening or damage. Don't be afraid to work with your new chain first and get some experience before you try and correct the old chain.

How true!

And you could start with a new chain and bar, and swap them out in the same tree, to your other equipment, and determine where the problem was.

 

[Sagetown]

Good job on determining the bar has an issue. The only concern with trying to fix that bar is if you ground so much off that the groove was no longer deep enough to contain the drive link.

I think it's much easier to learn to sharpen on a new chain. All the angles are correct and you are not compensating for previous poor sharpening or damage. Don't be afraid to work with your new chain first and get some experience before you try and correct the old chain.

Hey Mill; that goes along with something else I've heard recently, and something I've been suspect about too. That is that just because a chain is brand new doesn't always mean it is sharp. A little fine tuning on a new sawchain was recommended by this gentleman, and not only to the cutters, but the rakers also. I may check into that on my next new chain.

 

[ehgauss]

Do I need to replace the bar?

In just about every case where one of my saws started cutting at an angle, or cutting a curve, it's been a case of the bar rails being of unequal height. As others have suggested, that can be checked using a combination square. If they are off by a bit, they can be dressed with a hand-held file with the bar held in a vise if you're good. I purchased a Pferd Universal Edge Sharpener from Bailey's as shown in:

Husqvarna Chainsaws, Outdoor Power Equipment and Tree Care Supplies from Bailey's

I simply clamp the bar in a vise, and give each edge a few strokes to level the rails. It's quick and certain.

I've tried several tools to help me sharpening the cutters. I recently bought a Granberg clamp-on guide but don't like it as much as the Montgomery Ward guide that I bought almost 50 years ago. The Granberg hold the links from rocking quite well compared to the Wards, but the depth settings on the Wards are more certain. Both of those lay in the bottom of the toolbox now though, because I've found I can do as well or better with Stihl file guides shown in:

Chain Saw Chain Filing Kits - Chain Saw Accessories | STIHL

The marking of the desired angles on the guide makes it easy to get the guides sharpened evenly.

I set the raker depths with a hand-held 6" Craftsman flat file, using a feeler gage and a small straight edge to check.

There's a lot of good instruction on how to maintain chain and bar to be found by wandering about the Stihl website:

STIHL – The Number One Selling Brand of Chain Saws – Outdoor Power Tools - Locate an Independent STIHL Dealer

Oregon also offers some good instructional material.

It's not brain surgery, but it does take some concentration and practice. Good luck