Falling pics 11/25/09

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I believe it. There are signs where I work forbidding "Measurement, Mapping, Photography", and a whole bunch of other things that are really just Business As Usual. My paperwork keeps me out of trouble -- contractors don't always have the same experience. I never worked for this ownership as a contractor, but, knowing what I know now, I would certainly have had a few "requirements" before signing anything that I wouldn't have on any other ownership.
 
Get a Cruiser's Crutch or some prisms. They'll pay for themselves in a few trees. If you know what the landowner wants the stand to look like later, why mark anything if you can meet the goals up front? Later, when you're rich as hell from your successful projects drop the preposterous cash on a Relaskop; it really is a great tool but it really does cost way more than it's worth.

The laser pointers are in fact quite practical. The price was last year approx 300 USD. Gator Eyes
 
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I see you took the job. Excellent work, as usual. Carry on smartly!

Aaa, Jameson, you cannot let unmarked timber slow you down. I have cut alot of tracts that where 12'' and above, 14, 16,20 bla bla bla. Usually that is the rule when the timber is not marked. put a scratch on your bar to help measure, but don't fret if you cut a few 12 inchers. I find that in the woods, what looks like a 10 incher is usually more than a foot. . .

Way to go Jameson! Nice pics man!

Yeah you'll get used to it fast, and how to work your patch to keep things rolling smoothly. If you are concerned about the diameter, you can also make yourself a string that is the right length for your diameter, hence "hug 'em and cut 'em".

So much for silviculture, welcome to hardwood logging.

Thanks fellas!
 
Did a few hazard trees today. Here is one of them, the biggest of the day.

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/NdiZHqv9W4I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
good one, not bad for a punky pos. was it the 1st of the day? looked clean before that one.:clap:
 
Remember to shoot for micro hinge on that hardwood, to save butt log value and to make the new boss happy.
 
The laser pointers are in fact quite practical. The price was last year approx 300 USD. Gator Eyes

I roll pro when I can -- this is the gear I carry right now:

ProdShot-TP360wTrimbleGPS-lowres.jpg


Only difference is that my rangefinder is a 200b rather than a 360b, which means it lacks the built-in compass. I hope to get a 360b ASAP, Boss Willing. The "b" stands for Bluetooth, which means the doohickey automatically sends its data to the GPS unit. With my setup, the only thing I have to enter manually is the azimuth.

Here it is on a pole of my own design which incorporates a camera tripod ball head and a locking platform for the GPS:

DSCN1480.jpg


As you can imagine, circular plots are pretty much effortless. The tripod head has degrees marked on it, so I simply align the rangefinder to North when I establish a plot, and read the numbers as I turn the head. I only need to look at the compass once. I won't even have to do that once I get a 360b.
 
I roll pro when I can -- this is the gear I carry right now:

Only difference is that my rangefinder is a 200b rather than a 360b, which means it lacks the built-in compass. I hope to get a 360b ASAP, Boss Willing. The "b" stands for Bluetooth, which means the doohickey automatically sends its data to the GPS unit. With my setup, the only thing I have to enter manually is the azimuth.

Here it is on a pole of my own design which incorporates a camera tripod ball head and a locking platform for the GPS:

As you can imagine, circular plots are pretty much effortless. The tripod head has degrees marked on it, so I simply align the rangefinder to North when I establish a plot, and read the numbers as I turn the head. I only need to look at the compass once. I won't even have to do that once I get a 360b.

Fancy stuff.
 
In that particular picture, I'm counting trees standing within a certain radius, to ensure that the logger has thinned to the proper density. I also use that set-up to install permanent circular plots, both fixed- and variable-radius. It's especially useful for survival surveys where we want to revisit the exact same trees later.
 
The key to purchaser select cutting is not to think about it too much, that is what will really slow you down. It takes a few days to develop an eye for the spacing and type of trees you want to leave. Develop some clear points in your head- four to six key indicators for what you want to accomplish in a given stand. Once you have those down, just go for it.

I've seen cutters with twenty years experience or more strangle themselves on a purchaser-select job because they thought too much about each and every tree. The key to making money (for everyone) on a job like that is a blend of efficiency and quality harvest principles.

You can get an el-cheapo hand-held prism at a forestry supply house for not too much. A cutter doesn't need to invest in a lot of cruising equipment unless you're planning on moving into to being a forester or a cruiser later on.
 
This is the very basic tool in Scandinavia. "Relaskooppi". Price is maybe 5-10 USD. No moving parts.
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It is used to measure the basal area of the wood. The wanted density after the thinning is usually described as the basal area. Also, if you know the basal area and the average DBH of the woods, you can figure the density in numbers. And, if you know the average height as well, you know the total volume of the woods.

Cutters use the device to check the density while cutting. Very easy and quick.
 
That would be what I'm calling a "Cruiser's Crutch". It's a good tool if used properly, which means holding the chain between the teeth to establish a constant distance between the eye and the aperture. If you tie the chain to your vest, your cruise will be off.
 

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