Firewood Gathering: Tips of the Trade

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husqvarnaX

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Share some cool or innovative techniques you've come up over the years that make cutting firewood more efficient. Wether its a method of of hauling the wood to a modification to a tool, let everyone know.

I have one for getting all of your rounds the same lenghth: If you have a Husqvarna saw with a 20" bar its almost exactly 16" from your crankcase to the end of your bar, I can run down a log making quick cuts that run parralel donw the tree. Beats using a stick and hatchet.
 
I jb welded 2 nuts together on the end of a 16" piece of all thread and attach that to the first bolt on my saw that holds the bar on that way I know everypiece is 16" long..
Baileys sells something similar

Jeff
 
I already posted this over in the Chainsaw section, but it's been a while.

I made a sled to carry my saws n stuff and also to used it to get the wood to the truck. Got it from Lowe's and bent a piece of 1/2" conduit for a frame, connected it w/ rivets at each of the vertical ribs and put a rope on w/ S-hooks. I was really happy with it. There's no comparison between a sled and a wheelbarrow when going through woods, especially in the snow.

I finally wore through the back corners of the floor. I also put it to work bringing firewood from my stacks to the back door.

I liked it so much I already bought a bigger one made for ice fishing. Only trouble is, the sides have a contour and expect it to be a tricky deal to bend the conduit.
 
Some splitting tips with maul

1. Use the whole handle, as you swing your top hand should slide down the handle and finish touching the other hand. Slide your hand up the handle to retrieve the maul over your head. (I use an 8 lbs maul). This keeps you from bending over so far (protects you back) and gives far better speed with the maul.

2. every block has some natural cracks. with knotty and large wood, aim for those.

3. put the knots on the bottom.

4. with large un-splittable blocks, chip chunks off the side, it lowers the cohesion of the rest of the block and eventually you can split anything.
 
I use the paint marker from Baileys. I love it. Also get a splitter. Saves alot of work on your body. Esp if you do as much as we do. Also when cutting fire wood check the local mills. They buy alot of wood that others may call junk wood. I can sell any type of wood that is 11" across and 8.5' long. It is easy money if you cutting anyways. And not alot of equipment is needed. That is how I got started logging. No place to cut wood, find a mill and aske where you can cut tops. You will find more than enough wood. (as long as they don't send you to me early in the season) I have orders for about 400 cord this year. Learn how to sharpen your own chain. Saves alot of time in the woods and is alot cheaper. Get a tool box to keep spares in. I use a cheap 20" plastic box. I keep atleast 3 chains for every bar. Also I keep at least a jug of mix oil for 1 gallon. You never know when you forget to check you saw gas can and see when you need more. I also keep an extra bar incase I bend one or somthing else happens. I keep a small parts stash in the truck. (bar nuts, eclips, spark plugs, air filters, and a few others) Take atleast 2 saws with you when you go cut wood. If you pinch one real bad pull the power head (to save it if things go really bad) and use the other saw to free it. Talk to others that cut wood and if you can cut together. You can always learn somthing from watching another person cut. Film your self cutting. You will be able to learn from that as well. I am sure there are others that I am forgetting.

Ray
 
keep your truck in top working order. It is your other mate. You get nothing done without it.
 
Keep one of those three pronged garden tools handy when cutting.
They come in darn handy for peeling those Hairy vines off of a tree without getting all covered in poison ivy.

A can of ether works wonders in decontaminating a saw after cutting in poison ivy/Oak. Just let it cool down first..

Always pack water chow and fire, and leave a note where you're gonna be cutting and when you should be back.

That way when they find ya with a tree dropped on your truck, you'll be warm and well fed, and not cranky like most people.;)

If you're gonna carry the saw in the bed on the wood, tie it to something useless you don't care about. Nobody loses crap they don't care about, just chainsaws.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote
 
I jb welded 2 nuts together on the end of a 16" piece of all thread and attach that to the first bolt on my saw that holds the bar on that way I know everypiece is 16" long..
Baileys sells something similar

Jeff

Don't bite on the Bailey's one. The rod is of fragile (very) plastic. I broke two of them in the first few minutes of use jusst by setting my saw down crooked.

Thanks for the tip on the two nuts. I was trying to come up with a way to make metal rods to fit the Stihl long nut from Bailey's.

Harry K
 
I've got a Mingo Marker like this:

5MI-265-lg.jpg


It works ok if your not experienced enough to cut 16" piece consistantly. However, with the additional wheels you can mark pieces at 6", 12", 18" and 24" if needed. It works best with log loads where you can mark a few lenghths at a time. Here's a video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Rc3g8IZVOg
 
I already posted this over in the Chainsaw section, but it's been a while.

I made a sled to carry my saws n stuff and also to used it to get the wood to the truck. Got it from Lowe's and bent a piece of 1/2" conduit for a frame, connected it w/ rivets at each of the vertical ribs and put a rope on w/ S-hooks. I was really happy with it. There's no comparison between a sled and a wheelbarrow when going through woods, especially in the snow.

I finally wore through the back corners of the floor. I also put it to work bringing firewood from my stacks to the back door.

I liked it so much I already bought a bigger one made for ice fishing. Only trouble is, the sides have a contour and expect it to be a tricky deal to bend the conduit.

I like that...I have one for ice fishing that may serve dual duty. Mine has 2 spots molded in to hold 5 gal. buckets...which is what I usually carry my stuff in.
 
I like that...I have one for ice fishing that may serve dual duty. Mine has 2 spots molded in to hold 5 gal. buckets...which is what I usually carry my stuff in.

Similar item, the Otter sled, works great for bringing firewood from the woodpile to the house when the ground is covered with snow.

Shari
 
A can of ether works wonders in decontaminating a saw after cutting in poison ivy/Oak. Just let it cool down first..


Stay safe!
Dingeryote

Now that is a good tip !! Unless flash fires is your thing, lol.
 
I always take my log jack so I keep my chain out of the dirt. Another trick when you use your tractor is put the boompole on it and pick up the log as far as possible and roll another peice uder it. Now when you cut you can do so waist high and have no chance of getting the chain the the dirt/rocks. Please be careful not to cut your leg though.
As you can tell I have rocky land and have had more then a few days of cutting lost from rookie mistakes like getting into a rock with my chain.
 
An Army surplus 50cal ammuntion box makes a sturdy toolbox to carry wedges, files etc. I switched over this year from the plastic Mtn shotgun ammo boxes that can be bought at Walmart. I have broke a few of the plastic boxes in the cold, the metal shoud stand up alot better.
 
Bucking to length: draw a thick line all around your saw(s) and/or bar(s) with a black permanent marker. It's always there, nothing in the way of cuts, simple. While limbing and bucking, easy.

Said before: learn to sharpen by hand. PHERD works for us, but there are other neat hand guides. A stump vise is cheap, quick, strong. (Baileys).

Learn the techniques of Wilderness Medicine. Most of us cut alone, usually far away from any immediate ER care. The skill and tools are from Mil Medic practice: bleeding, breathing, evac, etc.....this time you do it for yourself. How many of you carry serious blood stopping pads( the long gone full Kotex ) or "blood" powder ? Don't depend on cell reception.

Harvest in winter: no vipers, no bugs, hard ground, soft snow (here usually), cool armpits, no ground hollows to eat equipment.

Full wrap Labonville Chaps. Maybe also Kevlar gloves.


JMNSHO
 
:agree2: on cutting in winter. Frozen ground, less sweat and no bugs are a big plus.
 

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