excess650
Addicted to ArboristSite
That is how i've done it as well.
opcorn:I'm following this thread because I have a 357XP with the plastic clamp on the intake. Its a pretty strong runner, but I don't want any issues, so need to order some parts.
Fleebay 357xp.....
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That is how i've done it as well.
opcorn:I'm following this thread because I have a 357XP with the plastic clamp on the intake. Its a pretty strong runner, but I don't want any issues, so need to order some parts.
I work in the electronics field so I got some .062 flux core solder and some .031 flux core. Which one would work? Or does it need to be plumbers solder with no flux core?
excess650
Addicted to ArboristSite
The flux won't hurt anything, but I would wipe it out prior to assembly just like I wipe off the grease.
In that you have both diameters of solder, you could try Brad's method of "through the sparkplug hole". If it doesn't compress the thin stuff, try the thicker stuff.
In that you have both diameters of solder, you could try Brad's method of "through the sparkplug hole". If it doesn't compress the thin stuff, try the thicker stuff.
TreeTangler
ArboristSite Guru
If your're going to check the squish without the base gasket, throw a couple pieces of that .031 in there. If it doesnt get compressed, you know you've got plenty of room. I think you'll find that without the gasket, you'll me much less than that .031 anyway.
Well I just measured the squish and these are the results. I used two pieces of the thicker solder one going toward the flywheel, one toward the clutch.
Flywheel = .023
Clutch = .024
Flywheel = .023
Clutch = .024
Measure again in at least four locations offset by 90 degrees and average it out for best results. If your average is still around .02X somewhere, you're good to go w/o base gasket. Not sure I'd be splittin' hairs on this one or shavin' down my cylinder for a coupla more lbs. of comp, tho.
You're good to go without a gasket. Use a sealant like ThreeBond 1194 or Permatex MotoSeal. Do not use a silicone product.
Yamabond?
Grab your sealant of choice and bolt her down...stay away from silicone based stuff.
Yama it is. I got some of that already.
Well now I got some re-assembly to do. :msp_thumbsup: I will be taking some pics along the way highlighting some of the modifications done to eliminate the problems of this saw. After re-assembly I will be taking some vacuum and pressure readings to make sure everything is air tight. Well, I am going in.
That'll work according to lots of folks. As mentioned, stay away from the silicone based products due to the possibility of deterioration when in contact with gas, oil, etc,...., though your base seal should theoretically not be prone to such exposure unless a failure has already occurred or is in progress.
If you have Yamabond, go for it.
Don't forget to install the intake boot before applying the sealant. Don't ask how I know, lol.
Well I just got the jug installed. Was not too bad. I had to redo twice because of clearance issues with the new metal screw clamp. The way I had it positioned it was hitting part of the crankcase. Also the new plastic part that goes around the intake boot was not seated 100%. I was only off like 1/16" but it was enough to cause a problem. I will post up the pictures later. I guess the moral of this story is: DRY FIT THE JUG INTO PLACE BEFORE PUTTING ON SEALANT!:msp_biggrin:
Well this morning I re-wired the ignition cut-offf switch. Some wires got crushed and one was worn threw the jacket.
Then I made a rubber gasket for the exhaust so I could pressure and vacuum test the saw. I always get unsure about what is a good reading and what is a bad reading. On pressure I pumped it up to 8 psi. Rotating the crankshaft a few times the pressure dropped from 8 to 5 psi in 48 seconds. I did the same thing with vacuum. Pumped it up to -8 psi of vacuum, rotated the crankshaft and the vacuum dropped from -8 to -5 psi over a 53 second period. Did each five times and took the average and this is what I came up with.
So what do you think?opcorn:
Then I made a rubber gasket for the exhaust so I could pressure and vacuum test the saw. I always get unsure about what is a good reading and what is a bad reading. On pressure I pumped it up to 8 psi. Rotating the crankshaft a few times the pressure dropped from 8 to 5 psi in 48 seconds. I did the same thing with vacuum. Pumped it up to -8 psi of vacuum, rotated the crankshaft and the vacuum dropped from -8 to -5 psi over a 53 second period. Did each five times and took the average and this is what I came up with.
So what do you think?
opcorn:
Here are pictures I have so far....
PLUG
NIPPLE PLUG, "What did I just say? NIPPLE?"
Metal Clamp Setup
Wiring
PLUG
NIPPLE PLUG, "What did I just say? NIPPLE?"
Metal Clamp Setup
Wiring
Also made this clutch removal tool out of some black iron pipe and some hardware.
TreeTangler
ArboristSite Guru
When you are pressure or vacuum testing, even though you have the ports blocked off, when you rotated the crank you still increased the volume and therefore decreased the pressure. As long as it held the 5 lbs, I'd call it a win.
Probably not but when I am done I will be sure to post. I did put in a new meteor piston. Thanks for the heads up with the chip deflector. When I took the saw apart I knew it did not look right but just forgot about it fixing all the other problems.
Well I don't believe it held at 5 psi but the times that I talked about was how long it took the pressure to drop from 8 to 5. I thought I remember reading on here a few times that if the pressure stayed above x PSI for y SECS then you were good to go. Hence my confusion.
