Fleebay 357xp.....

[blsnelling]

I'm sorry, but you're not done yet It should hold pressure. You need to remove the flywheel and clutch, put about 10 PSI of pressure in the saw, then spray any possible leak source with something like Windex. It might be nothing more than the spark plug leaking. I've seen it more than once.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I'm sorry, but you're not done yet It should hold pressure. You need to remove the flywheel and clutch, put about 10 PSI of pressure in the saw, then spray any possible leak source with something like Windex. It might be nothing more than the spark plug leaking. I've seen it more than once.

We agree! It should hold vac and/or pressure all day as a fresh rebuild. And don't forget the decomp valve itself -- it is a valve designed to close with pressure, but could still be sucking air (vacuum leak) under certain conditions.

Good job, LowVolt.

Some soft, warm, squishy, Husky rep headed at ya.



edit: I use a dish soap/water mix for finding leaks and Windex for putting a spit shine on my projects when they're finished.
Needless to say, there's plenty of Windex left in the bottle.:jester:

 

[TreeTangler]

sorry, I misunderstood you. Yes, it should hold pressure. If everything has been replaced (bearings, seals, etc), check your rubber stoppers/plugs first with some soap and water, once may not be sealing as well as you think.

 

[LowVolt]

I'm sorry, but you're not done yet It should hold pressure. You need to remove the flywheel and clutch, put about 10 PSI of pressure in the saw, then spray any possible leak source with something like Windex. It might be nothing more than the spark plug leaking. I've seen it more than once.

Well I kinda figured that. It sucks cause I was excited to use my new flywheel puller kit but this kit is not for this type of flywheel. It looks like I need to fab something up to get this flywheel off. I better look at the spark plug first though before I go threw the process of making a puller. What am I talking about, I love using tools to make other tools. :msp_biggrin:

We agree! It should hold vac and/or pressure all day as a fresh rebuild. And don't forget the decomp valve itself -- it is a valve designed to close with pressure, but could still be sucking air (vacuum leak) under certain conditions.

Good job, LowVolt.

Some soft, warm, squishy, Husky rep headed at ya.



edit: I use a dish soap/water mix for finding leaks and Windex for putting a spit shine on my projects when they're finished.
Needless to say, there's plenty of Windex left in the bottle.:jester:

I just plugged the decomp but it will still get looked at.

sorry, I misunderstood you. Yes, it should hold pressure. If everything has been replaced (bearings, seals, etc), check your rubber stoppers/plugs first with some soap and water, once may not be sealing as well as you think.

Well I did not split the crankcase so some new seals are definitely a possibility.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Well I did not split the crankcase so some new seals are definitely a possibility.

Find the bubbles before you worry about splitting the case -- which should only be necessary if you need to replace the bearings or crank, not the seals. But maybe I'm not understanding you correctly...

You can pop that flywheel fairly easily without a puller if you're careful...

From nmurph...

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/202269.htm

Disclaimer: I screwed up the crank threads on a pristine J-Red 70E using the method, basically by not having the nut close enough to being flush with the end of the crank. I hit the nut slightly off center and skewed it down a couple of threads on the crank and about s**t myself. Was lucky to have an old school NAPA shop near by with an owner who's been machining for years and knows lots of tricks -- including re-chasing left-handed EURO threads with a file. (I was trying to remove the clutch spyder in this case, not the flywheel.)

If I had it to do over again, I'd wait until I had the proper tool -- especially if I was working on a saw famous for NLA parts.

But if it were my 357 and we were talking flywheel...tonight...with no puller..., I'd prolly grab the vise-grips and give her a few whacks until she popped loose.:msp_wink:

 

[SawTroll]

Also made this clutch removal tool out of some black iron pipe and some hardware. ....

A hammer and a suitable screwdriver or chisel is easier, and then you don't need a piston stop.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

A hammer and a suitable screwdriver or chisel is easier, and then you don't need a piston stop.

Actually, what he fab'd up is pretty close to the proper tool. Only other thing he coulda done was use a low psi impact instead of a socket wrench to affect the same result without a piston stop.

What's wrong with using a decent piston stop method? Piece o' rope works for me.

And please describe a "suitable screwdriver or chisel" for the particular operation at hand.

opcorn:

And btw, he already got the clutch off and is now on to the flywheel.:msp_razz:

And shoot the man some Husky rep...my LowVolt raygun is outta bullets.

 

[dl5205]

Actually, what he fab'd up is pretty close to the proper tool. Only other thing he coulda done was use a low psi impact instead of a socket wrench to affect the same result without a piston stop.

What's wrong with using a decent piston stop method? Piece o' rope works for me.

And please describe a "suitable screwdriver or chisel" for the particular operation at hand.

opcorn:

And btw, he already got the clutch off and is now on to the flywheel.:msp_razz:

And shoot the man some Husky rep...my LowVolt raygun is outta bullets.

Troll wasn't being 'snarky' with the hammer 'trick'. I use a 5/16 pin punch. There are 'one way' indentations on the flat face of the clutch shoes that allow you to place a tool in there and hammer clockways. Works slick.

HOWEVER, very nice job on fab-ing up that tool!

 

[almondgt]

Is there a safe alternative to blocking the decompression port at the base of the cylinder? That rubber cap could and would decompose with heat and time..............thus top end failure

 

[dl5205]

Is there a safe alternative to blocking the decompression port at the base of the cylinder? That rubber cap could and would decompose with heat and time..............thus top end failure

I was wanting to ask about that cap. I wonder if it has a husky p#. It looks sturdier than a std vac cap, and I'm really digging that li'l clamp. The right kind of rubber, made sturdy enough, could probably stand the heat, the gas, and the oil. Intake boots generally live until they're torn.

Speaking of clamps, is that one on the intake spec'd for the 390? It's a good looking unit.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Troll wasn't being 'snarky' with the hammer 'trick'.

Yes he was.:hmm3grin2orange:

But thanks for the tech note just to cover his butt.:biggrin:

 

[dl5205]

Yes he was.:hmm3grin2orange:

But thanks for the tech note just to cover his butt.:biggrin:

You're welcome. Think practically nothing of it.

I was tickled to find that one out, even more so when i tried it and it worked. All the outboard clutches I had fooled with before had the hex in the middle.

 

[LowVolt]

Actually, what he fab'd up is pretty close to the proper tool. Only other thing he coulda done was use a low psi impact instead of a socket wrench to affect the same result without a piston stop.

I did! In the picture you did not see the new DeWalt Impact my wife gave me for Birthday/Christmas. It is a badace tool.

Troll wasn't being 'snarky' with the hammer 'trick'. I use a 5/16 pin punch. There are 'one way' indentations on the flat face of the clutch shoes that allow you to place a tool in there and hammer clockways. Works slick.

HOWEVER, very nice job on fab-ing up that tool!

Thanks man. Another hobby/passion of mine is metal fab/welding.

Is there a safe alternative to blocking the decompression port at the base of the cylinder? That rubber cap could and would decompose with heat and time..............thus top end failure

I thought the same thing. But that rubber boot is fairly beefy. It is not hard but not easy to put the rubber nipple on. Also the clamp that goes around it goes on VERY snug.

I was wanting to ask about that cap. I wonder if it has a husky p#. It looks sturdier than a std vac cap, and I'm really digging that li'l clamp. The right kind of rubber, made sturdy enough, could probably stand the heat, the gas, and the oil. Intake boots generally live until they're torn.

Speaking of clamps, is that one on the intake spec'd for the 390? It's a good looking unit.

The part number for the rubber cap is: 537 18 00-01 : and the clamp number is 537 32 09-01.

Yes it is spec'd for the 390. It works very well with the updated plastic piece for the intake boot.


Well I got some good news. Without taking the flywheel off I pressure checked the saw again. Got out the windex and found the leak. Like Brad suggested it is coming from the spark plug. So I installed a new plug. Same result still not sealed up.

So what can I do for this? I dont want to keep torquing on the spark plug cause I do not want to strip out the threads.

 

[blsnelling]

Put enough grease on it to get it to hold air. Then, vac test again. If it holds, clean the plug and run it. That small leak in the plug won't hurt you.

 

[SawTroll]

Actually, what he fab'd up is pretty close to the proper tool. Only other thing he coulda done was use a low psi impact instead of a socket wrench to affect the same result without a piston stop.

What's wrong with using a decent piston stop method? Piece o' rope works for me.

And please describe a "suitable screwdriver or chisel" for the particular operation at hand.

opcorn:

And btw, he already got the clutch off and is now on to the flywheel.:msp_razz:

And shoot the man some Husky rep...my LowVolt raygun is outta bullets.

There are recesses in the clutch that are marked clearly with "off", and an arrow to indicate the direction - just place a suitably sized flat screwdriver (or preferably a chisel) as "flatly" as possible in one of those recesses, and give it a snappy stroke with a hammer or similar - clutch comes off, no piston stop needed.

 

[almondgt]

Repair with a Helicoil for the spark plug hole is an option. Do you have a picture of the spark plug hole on the cylinder without the spark plug in place?

Would soldering the hole up on the decompression port elbow at the base of the cylinder work to close that area off?

 

[blsnelling]

The threads are fine.

 

[TreeTangler]

Like Brad said, don't worry about it. Funny thing is, get to running that saw and everything gets nice and hot it'll probably seal.

BTW, have some rep my good sir!

 

[MGoBlue]

BTW, have some rep my good sir!

+1 Lookin forward to hear the run report.

 

[sunfish]

There are recesses in the clutch that are marked clearly with "off", and an arrow to indicate the direction - just place a suitably sized flat screwdriver (or preferably a chisel) as "flatly" as possible in one of those recesses, and give it a snappy stroke with a hammer or similar - clutch comes off, no piston stop needed.

I've been removing outboard clutches this way for many, many years. Works great!