Free 070!!!!!

[fourfivefour]

The last two points ignition engines I worked on that didn't have spark had bad condensors. Coils rarely go bad. The condensors were shorted, they would show continuity from the wire to the condensor body. The new ones would show continuity for a second when the meter charged them up then you would loose it.

 

[bigbadbob]

Really?? So your saying there may be nothing wrong with this ignition. Any actual specs on this saw for primary and secondary resistance.

I don't have any maybe some one will chime in. I believe most coils are close to being the same. Hook it up and see what happens??? Cant hurt, get a bystander to hang on the plug wire, you know how well it wor'ks when you see how high they jump!! Used to do that testing electric fence controllers, didn't take long and no more volunteers!!!!

 

[parrisw]

I don't have any maybe some one will chime in. I believe most coils are close to being the same. Hook it up and see what happens??? Cant hurt, get a bystander to hang on the plug wire, you know how well it wor'ks when you see how high they jump!! Used to do that testing electric fence controllers, didn't take long and no more volunteers!!!!

ha ha ha ha. Man you think just like me!! LOL LOL. well it does have the proper primary resistance, according to the manual. I do enjoy shocking people so much, its the dam funniest thing in the world. Sometimes at work I charge up a condenser with the car spark plug wire, get's the condenser to at least a good 20,000 volts, as long as you don't touch the body and wire your good, so say to someone, hey BOB check this out, and throw it to them, they catch it and in for a big dam surprise when they get blasted with 20kv, I've never laughed so hard when I do that, the look on their face is just priceless.

 

[parrisw]

Ok, how in the heck are you supposed to set the point gap?? with the flywheel on, you cant check it?

 

[parrisw]

Finally got her going today. Runs pretty good. Here's a couple pics. Vids coming too.

Keep in mind, this chain was really dull, I just quickly threw it on and cut a couple cookies. One more vid on the way, still uploading.

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[parrisw]

Last vid for now.

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[wigglesworth]

Cool man!! I love freebies....

 

[parrisw]

Cool man!! I love freebies....

Ya, I do too. But as I'm sure you know, it wasn't free in the end. Had to spend some cash on it. But still cost me a little less then $100

 

[blsnelling]

Very nice. Are you familiar with the windvane rev limiter on these?

 

[parrisw]

Very nice. Are you familiar with the windvane rev limiter on these?

yes I am, it's connected now, I was wondering if that's why it was cutting in and out just reving it, typically when does it cut in?

 

[blsnelling]

I have a couple with them. You can't tune these saws at WOT unless you over ride them. They simply won't rev since all they do is choke themselves out. I'm not sure overriding one for tuning would be a good idea either. Someone with more experience will need to step in here. I would simply get the saw good and warm and tune it in the cut where it's just lean enough to clean out and go all 2-stroke. I don't know if the wood you was cutting was simply not enough load, or if your saw is just too rich. But it was definately running way rich. I'd want to tune it in bigger wood if you can.

 

[Dibbs]

yes I am, it's connected now, I was wondering if that's why it was cutting in and out just reving it, typically when does it cut in?

I'm sure if you looked in the right place you would find a Workshop Manual telling you all you need to know..........

Anyway, 11,000 rpm tuned at the carb without wind vane operational, then, 7,500rpm to 8,000 rpm governed using the spring on the wind vane.

 

[parrisw]

I'm sure if you looked in the right place you would find a Workshop Manual telling you all you need to know..........

Anyway, 11,000 rpm tuned at the carb without wind vane operational, then, 7,500rpm to 8,000 rpm governed using the spring on the wind vane.

Thanks, I was planning to just lean it a little at a time, and make a few cuts.

 

[shawn022]

govenor

The govenor should kick in at 8k.
Manual says to tune to 11k with the govenor disabled and then move the govenor spring in the notches to achieve the 8k.

Sorry didn't see the previous posts.

 

[parrisw]

The govenor should kick in at 8k.
Manual says to tune to 11k with the govenor disabled and then move the govenor spring in the notches to achieve the 8k.

Sorry didn't see the previous posts.

Thanks for the info.

 

[William Balaska]

The carb need to be adjusted as well, I have the owners manual I can send you a copy of the tuning procedure if needed

 

[parrisw]

The carb need to be adjusted as well, I have the owners manual I can send you a copy of the tuning procedure if needed

Yes, I know. I've done no tuning yet. That was the first run. I have the manual's.

 

[parrisw]

Well I did a little more tuning today in some wood. Sounds much better, but its still only turning 6500rpm in the wood peaked up to 6800 a couple times, still cuts good. I suspect that this saw is worn out. The piston looked pretty good for a old saw like this, no scoring, I never tore it right apart, cylinder stayed on.

 

[William Balaska]

compression test it, the bottom ends in those saws are built to last probably just needs the topend

 

[parrisw]

compression test it, the bottom ends in those saws are built to last probably just needs the topend

That's what I was thinking. I'll do a comp test soon. It was a tree service saw, so I'm assuming it seen allot of use, and hard use at that.