Help! New to saws. What safety equipment?

[CTYank]

About safe saw operating procedures, a few suggestions:
1. Never (if possible) operate saw left-handed. (Left hand goes on front handle, period.) This ties to #4 below.
2. Keep left elbow locked with left arm straight.
3. No monkey-grip on left hand. Keep thumb opposite fingers. Never operate saw one-handed, never.
4. Keep all body parts out of the "plane of the chain." Always operate saw so you can read stuff on the bar, IOW.
5. Keep feet spread, for stable stance.
6. Inspect saw before running it; see that chain is sharp. Test chain brake often.
7. Keep wedges handy, and use them, when felling and bucking. Much preferable to pinching bar. Plastic wedges are super cheap.
8. Feed saw well. Quality oil & fresh gas, mixed in proper ratio.
9. Learn to analyze log for compression/tension regions.
10. Longer bar is not always better than shorter.
11. Plan on touching up saw chain at least once per two fill-ups. Helps get your pulse rate down, besides.
12. Always have at least two escape paths clear and ready.

Some good chainsaw/firewooding gloves are knit with latex palm, Like "Atlas Fit", much longer lasting than leather, great grip.

 

[ANewSawyer]

I'm between Rogersville and Bristol

Ok, I am far south of you. In the Knoxville and Sevierville area.

EDIT: CTYank, thanks for the tips!

 

[mdavlee]

Yeah a little far to drive for a short cutting trip.

 

[ANewSawyer]

It is too long of a long drive. At the price of gas, I would feel bad about asking someone to drive that far. But I appreciate the thought. I forgot that one of my neighbors owns a stump grinder. I will ask him if he knows of any classes. Even if he doesn't, he may know someone willing to teach me.

 

[mdavlee]

It is too long of a long drive. At the price of gas, I would feel bad about asking someone to drive that far. But I appreciate the thought. I forgot that one of my neighbors owns a stump grinder. I will ask him if he knows of any classes. Even if he doesn't, he may know someone willing to teach me.

If you had an interesting log to mill I'd be up for a drive any way.

 

[ANewSawyer]

Well, I appreciate the thought. Stay safe!

 

[CTYank]

Well, I appreciate the thought. Stay safe!

That's our wish for you, to be hearing from you for a long time to come. May you find someone to learn from by watching.

 

[Black Dogg]

Welcome ANewSawyer!

I know some folks here are going to say otherwise but a great course for chainsaw safety is the Game of Logging, Level 1. Around here some of the Cooperative Extensions put them on for homeowners and aspiring loggers alike. I took mine as part of my initial courses required for my Trained Logger Cert.
Lots of good info on safety, maintenance (including sharpening!) and some hands-on felling practice to round out the day.

As for sharpening, I use this little widget from Husqvarna http://www.husqvarna.com/us/accessories/chainsaw-accessories/file-gauges/ and for the depth gauges this http://www.husqvarna.com/us/accessories/chainsaw-accessories/depth-gauges/ . They are cheap and work really well!

Stay safe!

 

[chamberlincraig]

I don't post much, but would like to add a cell phone and a first aid kit. First aid could be as simple as a trauma pad and a small roll of gauze. I keep some in the pouch on my chaps. And let someone know where you are cutting and when you expect to be finished. As a First Responder who has seen a homeowner saw cutting 2" diameter sticks go to the bone I consider preparing for the worst and not needing it much preferred to needing and not having... Just my 2 cents.

 

[7sleeper]

Since my classic recomendation videos have already been presented above I will add the following two. They are in german so don't worry, the vid alone is nice because they show a few different types of filing helps. They also demonstrate in the vids when you take down too much of the rakers, the chain gets very "graby".





One last link with a lot of good videos is here from Stihl. Chainsaws all work more or less the same irrespective of brand, so don't be affraid something might not be "equal"!
http://www.stihlusa.com/information/videos/

good luck!

7

 

[TheJollyLogger]

What's with the no left hand cutting? Admittedly, it's an advanced technique, but there's nothing wrong with it, as long as you follow the same guidelines.

 

[Philbert]

What's with the no left hand cutting?

If you hold the saw with your Left hand on the Rear handle:

1) it is harder to reach the 'kill switch' on most saws, without letting go or repositioning your hand. A potential safety issue.

2) if the saw kicks back, the chain will be aimed squarely at your face, at worst, and at your Right wrist, at best. If you hold the Rear handle with your Right hand, it is possible to hold the saw slightly to your right, so that if the saw kicks back it will only graze your ear and soil your pants.

There actually was (were?) at least one Left-handed saw made in the '60s, with the bar and chain on the Left side. Since then, it has been discriminatory against Southpaws. Sorry.

Philbert

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Not saying it's ideal, but a blanket indichtment seems extreme.

 

[Philbert]

You asked why it's discouraged. This is a new guy, so it makes sense to start him off on the right foot. Er, hand.

Philbert

 

[7sleeper]

Forgot a vid for beginners who buy one of the el cheapo grinders. Which by the way work very well, irrespective of what a lot of guys here say about them.



7

 

[ANewSawyer]

Holy cow! I looked away and this thread exploded!

As far as the left hand vs right handed, I am right handed so the standard hold should be the most comfortable hold for me.

7sleeper, I have a question. The guy in your first vid had the round file level. I thought the handle of the file is supposed to be lower than the tip? Well, that is what my 435 manual said.
I have Husqvarna's file guide that looks like an "O". This one: http://www.husqvarna.com/us/accessories/chainsaw-accessories/file-gauges/ Well, mine has the attached raker guide. I used it on the used Husqvarna H30 chain that came on my used saw. It left me with some questions. The file only hit the top plate and it was making the angle more obtuse. It didno seem to hit much of the corner. I could not get the file to go into the gullet, even when freehanding. I am almost positive that I have the correct file size. Maybe the previous owner used the wrong size. I doesn't matter though. I was already planing to replace the bar and chain. So I can afford to experiment with the old chain. Not a fan of grinders for sharpening. I am coming off of an extensive history with knife and machete sharpening. To easy to burn the cutter.

One last question about sharpening, what do you do if you generate a burr? Do you lightly dress the non beveled side of the cutter?

 

[Philbert]

The guy in your first vid had the round file level. I thought the handle of the file is supposed to be lower than the tip?

Depends. Used to be that the 10 degree 'down angle' was only recommended for certain chains. Even then, some guys do it and some guys don't. Pick one and stick with it - going back and forth will waste a lot of time and chain life. Or try it one way on one chain and the other way on another chain loop to compare. Note that if you are using a file guide (and you are), you need to follow how that file guide positions the file. Some do not allow the the 10 degree angle.

I have Husqvarna's file guide . . .. I used it on the used Husqvarna H30 chain that came on my used saw. It left me with some questions. The file only hit the top plate and it was making the angle more obtuse. It didno seem to hit much of the corner. I could not get the file to go into the gullet, even when freehanding.

Again, if you are using a file guide, you have to follow how that works, and not try to fight it. You should not be putting the file in the gullet - the gullet does not cut wood. Only the top plate cutting edge and the upper part of the side plate cutting edge cut wood. The gullet only helps to carry away chips. Refer to the Oregon guide I mentioned earlier.

One last question about sharpening, what do you do if you generate a burr? Do you lightly dress the non beveled side of the cutter?

No. You will generate a small burr because you should be filing from the inside out. Ignore it. It will disappear when the cutter hits the wood. If you are generating large burrs, something else is going on (dull file, etc.)

Philbert

 

[CTYank]

Holy cow! I looked away and this thread exploded!

As far as the left hand vs right handed, I am right handed so the standard hold should be the most comfortable hold for me.

7sleeper, I have a question. The guy in your first vid had the round file level. I thought the handle of the file is supposed to be lower than the tip? Well, that is what my 435 manual said.
I have Husqvarna's file guide that looks like an "O". This one: http://www.husqvarna.com/us/accessories/chainsaw-accessories/file-gauges/ Well, mine has the attached raker guide. I used it on the used Husqvarna H30 chain that came on my used saw. It left me with some questions. The file only hit the top plate and it was making the angle more obtuse. It didno seem to hit much of the corner. I could not get the file to go into the gullet, even when freehanding. I am almost positive that I have the correct file size. Maybe the previous owner used the wrong size. I doesn't matter though. I was already planing to replace the bar and chain. So I can afford to experiment with the old chain. Not a fan of grinders for sharpening. I am coming off of an extensive history with knife and machete sharpening. To easy to burn the cutter.

One last question about sharpening, what do you do if you generate a burr? Do you lightly dress the non beveled side of the cutter?

Not really a problem burning cutters if you take light passes, using quick "hits" with the wheel, and keep the wheel clean. What was doesn't have to remain.

I only use guided files on my own chains, because of the sharper resulting edge. That's fine with chain being on the bar. For de-rocking buds' chains off the bar, which would take long filing, an NT grinder works fine so long as I degrease the chains first with an ultrasonic cleaner. Not to mention that the NT (now "Timber Tuff") grinder is orders of magnitude better than the HF grinder, which is a waste of time, IMHO.

Never had interest in pitching file/grinder about horizontal axis. Seems not to matter at all.

 

[ANewSawyer]

I am not used to a guide that actually works. But it does put the pitch on, so I will keep doing that. I did notice small, small burr formation; that was why I asked about it. Now, as far as the file not quite getting to the corner, should I have filed until I saw the scratch patten hit the corner? And just a little more filing until it got just a touch of scratch pattern on the side plate?

I did have a question about gas mixing. I saw something that said you should add first add half the gas then oil and finally the last half of the gas. I had just been adding the oil to a full gallon and shaking really well. (I only use a gallon at a time. That will do almost a whole summer in my trimmer.)

Any other tips for this newb when running the saw?

 

[Philbert]

. . .should I have filed until I saw the scratch patten hit the corner? And just a little more filing until it got just a touch of scratch pattern on the side plate?

Each cutter has 2 edges. When crosscutting (most of what most of us do with a chainsaw) the side plate edge cuts through the wood grain and the top plate edge chips out the wood. It may help you to think of this as 2 chisels, joined at a corner (the shape of the cutter varies by type). If you are not getting both edges sharp, your cutter is not sharp. If your chain has a sharp, pointy corner, that should be sharp and pointy too.

Your file should contact and sharpen both edges at the same time. Sometimes, when you change angles, or file sizes, or go from a grinder to a file (or vice-versa), it may take a few strokes to 'seat' the file, and actually sharpen the cutter.

I saw something that said you should add first add half the gas then oil and finally the last half of the gas. I had just been adding the oil to a full gallon and shaking really well.

As long as it gets mixed. I shake it up a bit each time I fill the saw to be sure. Good idea to only mix a gallon at a time so that you don't end up with old gas.

Philbert