Home made friction saver

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Treecutr

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I purchased a couple steel rings for making a friction saver. ( from Sherril Tree ) I plan to use either 1" nylon webbing, or rope, but would like suggestions as to what would be best/ better tahn the above. Also best knot to use for both above. I have never used a friction saver, so this is the start of my trial. Thanks!
 
so throw the 2 rings on the webbing, and tie Water or beer knot to make full loop, or tie one ring to each end of webbing with a water knot. Not sure which, as I thought water knot was only for joining 2 ends together, not for securing something, let me know. Thanks.
 
...this is what i did for mine, adjustable, safe and cheap as hell

i used some 1/2" line, 2 different sized aluminum rings, some webbing, some BeeLine and a metal hanger.

I attached the big ring on one side of the 1/2' line with a termination knot, then taped three pieces of metal hanger wire about 4'' long each along the 1/2'' line right below the knot. This is so when you retrieve from the ground it pops the knot out of the crotch and you wont jam the knot into the crotch, leaving you to go back up:dizzy:. then i tied a prusik with the beeline and attatched the small ring. The loose end of the 1/2'' line NEEDS to be knotted or taped like crazy so the bee line cant slip off the end. i shoved a couple small pieces of wire hanger in the end in a cross through the rope and wrapped the crap out of it with tape to create a stopper ball at the end. And viola, you have an adjustable friction saver that can be set (tree climbers companion will teach ya how to set from the ground, really easy) and retrieved from the ground. Cost about $15-$20, better than around $50 to $300 (http://www.sherrilltree.com/Profess...t/A-R-T-Rope-Guide-friction-management-system)

Be safe
 
....the webbing

...the webbing is used as a friction saver for your friction saver, this is to keep the rope in good condition, remember this is your lifeline, keep it clean and neat. pull the rope through some the webbing, this sucks and isnt so easy, i used my cobra cable lube and a hanger to get it through. After its all said and done its night and day, smooth as butter my friend. MUCH better than pulling yourself up a locust, silver maple, ect. And will help to preserve the thin bark on trees such as beech, magnolia, ect
 
i used some 1/2" line, 2 different sized aluminum rings, some webbing, some BeeLine and a metal hanger.

I attached the big ring on one side of the 1/2' line with a termination knot, then taped three pieces of metal hanger wire about 4'' long each along the 1/2'' line right below the knot. This is so when you retrieve from the ground it pops the knot out of the crotch and you wont jam the knot into the crotch, leaving you to go back up:dizzy:. then i tied a prusik with the beeline and attatched the small ring. The loose end of the 1/2'' line NEEDS to be knotted or taped like crazy so the bee line cant slip off the end. i shoved a couple small pieces of wire hanger in the end in a cross through the rope and wrapped the crap out of it with tape to create a stopper ball at the end. And viola, you have an adjustable friction saver that can be set (tree climbers companion will teach ya how to set from the ground, really easy) and retrieved from the ground. Cost about $15-$20, better than around $50 to $300 (http://www.sherrilltree.com/Profess...t/A-R-T-Rope-Guide-friction-management-system)

Be safe

What you described sounds to me to be nothing short of a Frankenstein. You taped coat hangers to the rope? Oh you gotta post some pics of this.
 
What you described sounds to me to be nothing short of a Frankenstein. You taped coat hangers to the rope? Oh you gotta post some pics of this.

hahaha, i know, it sounds friggin redonk but it works damn well, is safe, and makes it really easy to retrieve from the ground. i dont have a photo, so i call upon my unbelievable artistic skills...

...the pieces of metal create a rigid end so it pops out of the crotch
 
hahaha, i know, it sounds friggin redonk but it works damn well, is safe, and makes it really easy to retrieve from the ground. i dont have a photo, so i call upon my unbelievable artistic skills...

...the pieces of metal create a rigid end so it pops out of the crotch

Whipping might work in place of the wire and should last a good long time. I can't imagine tape and wire holding up and it kinda sounds and looks like the wire would start to damage the rope.
I have never used friction savers cause I knew I would get one stuck... all the way at the top... at 5pm ... on friday.
 
Crazy, like a fox! Does the prussik ever slip to the stopper not and give you a nervous moment?
Like your artwork, probably better than a photo.
:cheers:
 
What I ment by tow straps being the same was ment as in the same construction material and strengeth, or is there something special about the friction saver material, again I don't have one ( I would have said uh oh too if something sounds off to me LOL )
 
Whipping might work in place of the wire and should last a good long time. I can't imagine tape and wire holding up and it kinda sounds and looks like the wire would start to damage the rope.
I have never used friction savers cause I knew I would get one stuck... all the way at the top... at 5pm ... on friday.

Yeah i could see that being a possibility, the idea is that the wire is only like 4" long and is taped against the rope. but i guess the ends could be a problem if not taped correctly. Another reason to always check your gear before climbs

Crazy, like a fox! Does the prussik ever slip to the stopper not and give you a nervous moment?
Like your artwork, probably better than a photo.
:cheers:

Never has slipped, holds true baby.
 
:jawdrop:

Something like this should suffice, no tape balls or bits of coat hanger needed :cheers:
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Walter, your friction saver looks more for spar work. If it was meant for using in crotches I would think you could do away with the prussic and just use a rope with to metal rings on each end. But I don't know though. Like I said I really don't see the need for them. I go up srt so friction is not a problem for me there. I could see useing yours where i sometimes use a choked strap and a beener for a TIP in places where I need the TIP to be somewhere a crotch is not. I have to go get it and usually I use this on TD's.
If I were going to make a friction saver I would do it like I said- two rings on the end of a rope, one at each end but in reality I would just buy one cause the one you can buy are tough as #### and worth the money.
 
Treectr, if you are looking for a way to acsend a tree with less friction you should try a different acsencion technique. If you are looking to reduce the friction caused to the tree I would suggest you look at Moss' rendition. Its just a tube the rope passes through instead of the crotch.
 
What I ment by tow straps being the same was ment as in the same construction material and strengeth, or is there something special about the friction saver material, again I don't have one ( I would have said uh oh too if something sounds off to me LOL )

If you have a tow strap with a rating then it should be good for that rating. I would think a tow strap would be a little big for what you are intending. I would use tree climbing rope ( 16 strand) for ease of knots and durability.
 
Walter, your friction saver looks more for spar work. If it was meant for using in crotches I would think you could do away with the prussic and just use a rope with to metal rings on each end. But I don't know though. Like I said I really don't see the need for them. I go up srt so friction is not a problem for me there. I could see useing yours where i sometimes use a choked strap and a beener for a TIP in places where I need the TIP to be somewhere a crotch is not. I have to go get it and usually I use this on TD's.
If I were going to make a friction saver I would do it like I said- two rings on the end of a rope, one at each end but in reality I would just buy one cause the one you can buy are tough as #### and worth the money.

Agreed tmd, I use them only on take downs and remove by hand before I begin chunking down the spar. I probably have your luck as I too would be stuck going back up that 75ft ash I just finished deadwooding at 5:00 on Friday evening... haha funny almost feels like thats happened before :cry:
 
Agreed tmd, I use them only on take downs and remove by hand before I begin chunking down the spar. I probably have your luck as I too would be stuck going back up that 75ft ash I just finished deadwooding at 5:00 on Friday evening... haha funny almost feels like thats happened before :cry:

Could you post a pic of your rig deployed/employed? Can you set your from the ground and get it back?
 

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