How big a Stihl to run a 36" bar?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Gee Bob, I "want my money for nothing & chicks for free". Actually being to work sober and on time, productive? What is the world coming to? Oh yea, a job, pay bills, be respectable. Almost seems one for the history books sometimes.
 
I apologize for the poor picture quality, it was my iPhone. I bought a new camera two days ago.

This blowdown was about 42" where Cody had to cut it. It was stopped from rolling down the hill by the rootball of a 65" redwood he cut up and skidded out later. There was a six foot drop on the bottom side and the tree had shattered lengthwise. He cut down from the top a foot or so and then swung the bar down and cut vertical. He finished from the top down. This was done with an MS460 with a 32" bar.

I challenge any of you short bar votaries to buck this log where it lays with a 20" bar. How pray tell would you cut the off side? Remember this tree was shattered, a buckers break.

On steep ground I often have to ream any bucking cut because wedges just don't hold. How would you do that? Will you just hop over a 4' log? Why do you insist that using a long bar is WRONG when you have no experience to back up your claim. Having a hobby that involves chainsaws and cutting a little firewood each year doesn't qualify you to even have an opinion.

Edited to add,,, the log was about 30' long where it was cut.
 
To all you who wonder about big trees, I will try to get a few pics of the numerous Sequoia trees we have at homes in town. 8 to 12 foot bases are not uncommon. Neither are several 30" + Doug Fir trees at one house. Them's mighty big trees and they grow big quick. Guess I am not up to attacking such monsters arm'd only with a 20" bar. Kinda like going after elephant or buffalo with a 22 long rifle. Not the proper tool for the job. Might work, then again, might just get you killed trying.
 
Lots of people think that Illinois can't possibly have big trees, but many of the Large oaks we take down are 7' at the base.
 
Ok, let me ask the short bar only proponents this. If you come across a snag, bear trap, serious leaner, pre tension/stressed tree, or log suspended on its side, and you expect it could snap back and bite you, would you not prefer a bar with an extra foot, or more, of length so as to keep you back from the hazard thereby buying you distance in the name of safety? This is common in our PNW woods with dense undergrowth and steep hills. A fair amount of blowdowns and fenceposting, all in a days fun.
It's a matter of using the right tool for the job, that's all. Cape Ann, where the OP lives, is a relatively flat coastal region in northern MA with small trees; a totally different environment from the PNW, where big saws & long bars rule. As far as dangerous trees are concerned, I reckon that if I screw up, a longer bar isn't going to save me. I also have the options of waiting for a machine or just walking away. People I work for would prefer that I minimize risks.
 
...This was done with an MS460 with a 32" bar.
I challenge any of you short bar votaries to buck this log where it lays with a 20" bar. How pray tell would you cut the off side? Remember this tree was shattered, a buckers break.
On steep ground I often have to ream any bucking cut because wedges just don't hold. How would you do that? Will you just hop over a 4' log? Why do you insist that using a long bar is WRONG when you have no experience to back up your claim. Having a hobby that involves chainsaws and cutting a little firewood each year doesn't qualify you to even have an opinion.

I run a 20" bar on my 440 for maple/oak/cherry and 25" for white pine in my neck of the woods. Using that setup for the situation you describe would be stupid, as is the challenge you present. Also stupid would be insisting on using a 32" bar on 12-24" trees on Cape Ann, unless, of course, you're too old to bend over any more.
 
While long bars look cool, that isn't why pro's carry and use them. They do because they have to for safety and or productivity. Who in their right mind would want to carry something heavy and unyeilding up steep ground in the woods. I would imagine if they could use it, they WOULD rather carry a 16" bar 346. But that won't get it done now will it?
 
View attachment 393003 about as far east as you can get......i am not an occasional user.

That's my point. I big tree can be easily tackled with a modest sized bar.

Great pic.
thanks, that is a 32" bar

S



Some nasty poison ivy growing up that stump!
it was cold, no worries lol.

let me clear this up as far as my post, i used to cut everything with short bars.........now i can't stand less than a 24 for topping. i'v been a logger for 25 years.......take it for what its worth, i like the longer bar in big wood.
now i'm done here as this seems to be turning into a pissing match. my posts where not meant to poke fun at any one...... for the record.
 
I run a 20" bar on a 044 as well, but that is for quick work on 12 to 16 inch limbs at waist height that I don't want to spend all day chewing on with a 50cc saw. I find my back does hurt less though when using a 28" lightweight bar on my 460 compared to bending over using my 18" bar 346 or 026.
 
Problems occur when other people try to tell you something, that they have no personal experience in, is true when you have found out through personel experience that it isn't. East coast and PNW have different requirements. And Australia has different ones from the US altogether. If you show respect, especially to experienced professionals, of which I am not, you will be much more welcomed and not look so foolish later when someone calls you on it. Might even learn a thing or two, if possible.
 
Problems occur when other people try to tell you something, that they have no personal experience in, is true when you have found out through personel experience that it isn't. East coast and PNW have different requirements. And Australia has different ones from the US altogether. If you show respect, especially to experienced professionals, of which I am not, you will be much more welcomed and not look so foolish later when someone calls you on it. Might even learn a thing or two, if possible.
very true
 

Latest posts

Back
Top