How do I fix a seized bar? I need answers ASAP!!!!!

[user 188535]

I need answers ASAP

I was out cutting wood with the grain, and both of my bars seized. I started with my Ms 261 and then that bar seized, and then I started cutting with my MS 170 and then that bar seized. Does somebody have a fix or does somebody know if this will be covered under warranty?

 

[TheJollyLogger]

What do you mean by seized? The tips froze up? Pics would help.

 

[sliceoflife]

I would guess the tracks got pinched severely enough chain doesn't spin anymore?

If that's the case what worked for me was to take it off the saw, put it in a vise, find the pinched section and use a Flathead screwdriver plus rubber mallet plus patience and a careful angle on the screwdriver.

 

[user 188535]

What do you mean by seized? The tips froze up? Pics would help.

Already fixed it. The sprocket nose was seized up and I was able to bang it out with a hammer and screwdriver. It was just a string of wood clogging it up.

 

[Aknutter]

Disconnect bar from saw, leaving current bar in the log. Clean out the noodles under the chain guard and put on other bar and try at putting a relief cut in log to retrieve other bars.
I would also separate other saw from it's bar.

 

[blades]

I have never seen a siezed bar unless it was bent, maybe you just have a lot build up in the chain slot. the only other thing is if the sproket at the tip is froze up from lack of lubrication. most of the time a time penatrating oil and manually working it will free it up then it needs to be greased.

 

[blades]

glad you got it fixed

 

[ZinTrees]

ive never seen a seized bar nose except when the nose was smashed in a log, interesting to see a sliver of wood got in there
ive got bars that are multiple years old and have never once had the sprocket greased, no need to grease them IMO

 

[Woody912]

I need answers ASAP

I was out cutting wood with the grain, and both of my bars seized. I started with my Ms 261 and then that bar seized, and then I started cutting with my MS 170 and then that bar seized. Does somebody have a fix or does somebody know if this will be covered under warranty?

noodling is bad for that. Take your chain off the bar, check the groove for trash and clean it out if needed. Hit your sprocket with a screwdriver if needed to make it turn.

 

[user 188535]

noodling is bad for that. Take your chain off the bar, check the groove for trash and clean it out if needed. Hit your sprocket with a screwdriver if needed to make it turn.

It is fixed. my chain was actually loose. Do you have experience with Stihl bio plus oil? I run platinum, but I want to try something that will be good for my carving saws because sometimes oil gets on me and I want to be safe. I HATE the woodcutter oil because it is horrible and causes sawdust to cake in my saws and heat stuff up. I am also wanting to know if you think good of the stihl file holders such as the FF1 and FG4?

 

[user 188535]

ive never seen a seized bar nose except when the nose was smashed in a log, interesting to see a sliver of wood got in there
ive got bars that are multiple years old and have never once had the sprocket greased, no need to grease them IMO

Mine ain't got no holes! I got the bars of an MS 261 C-M and 170 clogged up. Don't know about you guys' Spongebob bars though. Did you hear that some brands are removing grease points from weed eater gearboxes?

 

[Mad Professor]

It is fixed. my chain was actually loose. Do you have experience with Stihl bio plus oil? I run platinum, but I want to try something that will be good for my carving saws because sometimes oil gets on me and I want to be safe. I HATE the woodcutter oil because it is horrible and causes sawdust to cake in my saws and heat stuff up. I am also wanting to know if you think good of the stihl file holders such as the FF1 and FG4?

I avoid the bio oils. If they sit or don't get cleaned off right away it polymerizes and about nothing as solvent will remove it. Paint came off with the crap when I scraped it off.

If you use that stuff run it dry then add some regular oil to flush it. Clean up under the covers.

 

[user 188535]

I avoid the bio oils. If they sit or don't get cleaned off right away it polymerizes and about nothing as solvent will remove it. Paint came off with the crap when I scraped it off.

If you use that stuff run it dry then add some regular oil to flush it. Clean up under the covers.

So is the stihl stuff bad too?

 

[user 188535]

I avoid the bio oils. If they sit or don't get cleaned off right away it polymerizes and about nothing as solvent will remove it. Paint came off with the crap when I scraped it off.

If you use that stuff run it dry then add some regular oil to flush it. Clean up under the covers.

What do you think of file holders such as the Stihl FG4 and FF1? If you do not know what I speak of I put pictures below.

 

[user 188535]

I avoid the bio oils. If they sit or don't get cleaned off right away it polymerizes and about nothing as solvent will remove it. Paint came off with the crap when I scraped it off.

If you use that stuff run it dry then add some regular oil to flush it. Clean up under the covers.

How long can they sit for? In the saw manuals, it says that BioPlus will not turn to resin as quickly as straight vegetable oil will. I know this is off-topic, but I also bring a small toothbrush so I do not get chips in my gas or oil.

 

[JRM]

I bought the top one in your picture some years ago when I was teaching my son how to file. It is a decent tool to get the muscle memory built up.
I prefer this one tho as it also touches up the depth cutters as you file.

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/filing-tools/2in1file/

 

[Mad Professor]

So is the stihl stuff bad too?

I was speaking of the Stihl stuff.

What do you think of file holders such as the Stihl FG4 and FF1? If you do not know what I speak of I put pictures below.

I've been filing so long I can freehand with just a file/handle. In fact I learned freehand.

The inexpensive Oregon ones will keep the file positioned for proper hook.

I've used a pFerd 2 in 1. Only have used that on milling chains to keep rakers set.

 

[Mad Professor]

Bar problem.

When sprocket/groove gets jammed up with crud, you can often place the chain/bar on a log and rock back and forth while pressing down (saw off). The cutters will grab into the wood, often enough to spin/free the chain. Almost never have to take bar off.

 

[Woody912]

What do you think of file holders such as the Stihl FG4 and FF1? If you do not know what I speak of I put pictures below.

Granberg file and joint for me. Much more accurate

 

[ZinTrees]

for field sharpening I use a 2in1, although typically I just swap chains since its faster
grinder is my goto, once all my chains are dull then I will spend 30 minutes with the grinder sharpening them, and end up with sharper than factory chains
for you right now starting off id get a 2in1 and a stihl sharpening roll to see what you prefer, get a box of pferd files, they are MUCH better than stihl files, also for a file handle drill a hole about half the diameter of a file in a golf ball, or a round piece of wood, and tap it onto the file, or buy plastic handles, doesnt matter