How much do you save.

[woodbooga]

My wife asked me if I was tired of loading the OWB yet. My response was, "The way I look at it I'm being paid every time I go outside, you don't save money by WISHING to do so". Too many people are afraid of a little hard work. I will say exercise (running, woodcraft, etc.) keeps you young.

I hear ya.

The other morning I was mighty sick and wasn't too motivated to kindle the woodstove. It was nice and toasty warm under the blanket and the backup oil furnace was running.

While I lay there, the furnace kicked on 10 times. From having had to bleed the line a few times in the past, I know that each "kick" will fill up a 12oz can. By my math, my laziness cost me over $5 for just one morning. Boy, multiply that by an entire season and you're talking some real $$$.

 

[stihl sawing]

I haven't burned gas or electricity to heat with in so long it would be hard to say how much i save a month, In my original post i estimated 200 to 400 dollars. But it may even be more with propane as high as it is. Either way i don't wanna go back to the utility way and find out.

 

[Brian S]

I just received our first electricity bill for an entire month on wood heat. It was $203.00. Same billing cycle for last year was $360.00. Our house is all electric. We run heat from the middle of October to mid March with Oct and March being spotty use on cold nights. I'd estimate we will save about $5-600 a year. By the end of next year my Craigslist insert and all its hookup parts will be paid for.

 

[aandabooks]

I'm in the $600-$800 range. NG is the backup source and we are on level pay. The winter before switching to wood, I saw a couple of bills hit just over $300. Since installing the woodburner, haven't seen a bill over $150 yet. This is NG and electric on the same bill. I still have oven, dryer and hot water on NG.

If I were saving thousands per year, I might have an easier time getting the wife to let me buy more saws in the pursuit of saving money. Can't yet get the rationale down right when trying to explain why I need another new saw.

 

[Marc]

I moved into our big (~3500 sq ft) and old (oldest part built circa 1728) family farmhouse last spring, as my grandmother was not well enough to continue living on her own and now lives in assisted care. The house is not insulated and the windows suck. Most windows have storms but are still very leaky. The house hemorrhages heat.

When my grandparents lived there they would go through on average, 75 - 100 gallons of oil a week, or 300 to 400 gallons a month (there are two 225 gal tanks).

I've now been through about 400 gallons total since winter began heating part of the house with a Hearthstone Heritage.

 

[cjcocn]

I moved into our big (~3500 sq ft) and old (oldest part built circa 1728) family farmhouse last spring, as my grandmother was not well enough to continue living on her own and now lives in assisted care. The house is not insulated and the windows suck. Most windows have storms but are still very leaky. The house hemorrhages heat.

When my grandparents lived there they would go through on average, 75 - 100 gallons of oil a week, or 300 to 400 gallons a month (there are two 225 gal tanks).

I've now been through about 400 gallons total since winter began heating part of the house with a Hearthstone Heritage.

I'm likely preaching to the choir here (or is that to the converted?), but you may want to develop a plan to upgrade the family farmhouse to be more energy efficient. Doors, windows, and insulation will save you on wood and extra work (always filling the stove, etc) big time.

aandabooks:

You've purchased a saw in each of the last two years so I'd say you were doing pretty well! (always looking for more of your pics ... hint hint)

 

[woodbooga]

I'm likely preaching to the choir here (or is that to the converted?), but you may want to develop a plan to upgrade the family farmhouse to be more energy efficient. Doors, windows, and insulation will save you on wood and extra work (always filling the stove, etc) big time.

Personally I have no problem frequently refilling the woodbox. The cookstove's in the kitchen, which is where the beer lives.

That said, this is good advice. Our old farmhouse with attached barn and outbuildings (what real estate people call a "New Englander") does pretty well holding in the heat. The new windows are a big help. There's one N-facing original window that the previous owner did not replace. We just put up plastic and it keeps the draft down. My seat at the kitchen table is right next to it and I feel no draft even with a stiff wind.

There's one place where we're losing major heat - the very back part of the rear kitchen ell. Which is also the NW corner of the house. It's insulated but improvements are needed. I've been dragging my feet because accessing the crawlspace beneath involves squeezing myself, supplies, and lighting through a 16" opening.

 

[Marc]

I'm likely preaching to the choir here (or is that to the converted?), but you may want to develop a plan to upgrade the family farmhouse to be more energy efficient. Doors, windows, and insulation will save you on wood and extra work (always filling the stove, etc) big time.

In the limited time I had this summer, I weather stripped doors and fixed up all the storms where I could. Also did some plastic over a few particularly leaky windows and banked around the foundation with hay bales. But yeah, big plans are already in the works, all the horsehair plaster is coming down, insulation, new windows, drywall is going up along with new Romex (it's all knob and tube) wired in fire detection and a residential sprinkler system. The outside is going to be resided with original looking clapboards and it will give me a chance to put a moisture barrier up.

Yeah, I've got a long road ahead. At least the roof is good and relatively new.

 

[Laird]

Been wondering if I could put ice in the owb and save money on AC in the summer time..........

 

[woodbooga]

In the limited time I had this summer, I weather stripped doors and fixed up all the storms where I could. Also did some plastic over a few particularly leaky windows and banked around the foundation with hay bales. But yeah, big plans are already in the works, all the horsehair plaster is coming down, insulation, new windows, drywall is going up along with new Romex (it's all knob and tube) wired in fire detection and a residential sprinkler system. The outside is going to be resided with original looking clapboards and it will give me a chance to put a moisture barrier up.

Yeah, I've got a long road ahead. At least the roof is good and relatively new.

Good thoughts on how to tighten the envelope. Just a few things to keep in mind.

Your house is nearly 300 years old, putting it at the tail end of the First Period of American domestic architecture. There's likely a lot of history in that house and many rennovations are irreversible. There may or may not be some architectural elements of historic value. The fact that you're not going to wrap your home in vinyl suggests that you have some sense of stewardship.

Based on my study of old homes, I doubt the horsehair is 1728 original ( that early on, they were using daubed mud with straw as a binding agent over hand-split lath). But the plaster over (prolly milled lath) is quite old and is part of the history of the property. Instead of removing it, is the foam fill insulation an option?

I'm sure the windows are a real concern due to heat loss. Any idea on their date? Probably not original if they're double-hung sash windows. In 1728, they were still using diamond pane casements. Nonetheless, replacing them might negatively impact your house's value since the old wavy glass is a selling point for some.

Anyhow, here's a link to some suggestions on how to improve the efficiency of antique windows: http://www.nhpreservation.org/html/news_102.htm

Please don't take my comments the wrong way - not trying to be be preachy. Ultimately it's your property.

 

[John D]

Im not sure yet,I just got up and running 12/13/08.But if history repeats iself,I should be on track to save about 2800 a yr in oil. Of course,I bought 2 Husky saws,an OWB,splitter,and my time,fuel/wear tear.I think im looking at a 3-4 yr payback time when its all said and done.But the satisfaction of burning downed trees instead of oil,and sticking it to the arabs is well worth the work.Also took off almost 20 lbs this winter,every other winter i gained 5.Its been a very cold winter,I think this yr Ill save even more, the last few days are the only break we've had all winter long.

 

[BryanSchamber]

We live in an old farm house that is at least 150 years old. We've gutted the whole house and re insulated. Just put in a Heatmor this last fall, so first year burning. I was paying $1600-2000 a year in propane just to heat. Now the only thing the high eff. furnace is good for is blower motor to move air. It will take a couple of years to pay for boiler. Thought about putting a side arm on water heater but will need to buy water heater. Currently rent one through power company.

Been fortunate enough to have several woods close to home that have been logged out, so wood is close and free. Many neighbors are glad to see someone eager to clean up a lot of storm damage and deadfall. I love the fact that I don't have to cut any live trees. I try to plant as many as I can.

There is not a price you can put on the time in the woods or the great exercise.