How to get the most life out of a chain file

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jwp

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Sep 5, 2011
Messages
167
Reaction score
24
Location
36861
I love how a new file takes metal off but after a few uses it seems like the teeth of the file start to get filled with metal and then it just will not get a bite like it did when new.

I don't drag the file backwards. I try to file with as little oil on the chain as possible. I try to tap the metal off the file.

So is there a cleaner such as acetone that I should be using on the file? Am I missing something?

I am going to pick up a new file today but if I can get my old file back to ripping off metal that would be nice.
 
When I use the file in the field I use it dry and tend to turn it a little every few teeth. Dont push down, let the file do the work. I also use save edge files. In 5 years I have yet to wear it out.
At home I use a windsor chain sharpener.


http://www.saveedge.com/chainsawfiles.html
 
Last edited:
File life

The first sharpening of a new chain will dull a good file quickly.I use a file that is on it's last leg.If you don't back drag and you tap the file often to clean it,I know no other little tricks.If the chain has oil or drops of water,I'll try to blot off where I'm filing the cutter with the back of my glove,not only because I don't want the file wet but I can see the leading edge better.If the file gets wet I'll run it through the crook of my elbow to try to dry it.I do use soda straws to protect the files in my saw tool pack.It does seem to prolong their sharpness.I personally prefer Pferd.In 40 rears of sharpening saws ,it seems even Pferd's aren't what they used to be.
 
Thanks for the replies. It seems that I am doing most things right. I may try cleaning the file a little better and see if it will cut any better.
 
Files are a consumable item. You might try buying a few different brands and seeing if you like the way that one cuts, finishes, or lasts better for the way that you work.

It sounds like you take good care of yours. +1 on the storing files in soft drink straws to protect the cutting edges when not in use. Starting with a clean chain helps keep stuff out of the file. I use a special stiff brush (a.k.a 'file card') to help clean files (all types) between uses - available at most hardware stores.

In some other posts here on A.S., some guys have said that they fill their file teeth with chalk to keep them from filling up. Some others have tried to 'sharpen' their used files by placing them in phosphoric acid - this may help to clean the files, but don't know if it adds any life to them. Your old files may still have life left in them for filing other stuff than saw teeth (aluminum, plastics, wood, sheet metal, etc.).

Philbert
 
card/ brush

"Yessir!" to using a file card - actually I mostly use the brush side on saw files. I don't do that in the woods, of course. I've had the same card/ brush for most of my life.

And a dry chain is the way to go. What I usually do is to cut into some dry wood just before filing.

I've tried to bring worn-out files back to life with muriatic acid. Didn't work, but I've only tried it on files that were thrashed. A buddy has a different method. Been meaning to call him but I'm busy with other things. I'll post up if I find something that works.
 
For those who may be unfamiliar with a file card, here's an example:

FileCard_zps65f75afd.jpg

Many more examples may be seen here, some two-sided, with brush, some with just the bent-back metal bristles.

This thread at another forum provides individual solutions on both how to break in a new file and also cleaning: File cleaning question

Some years back I came across a product that I now use to treat all of my woodworking tool surfaces. Until recently, the product was called "TopCote", but Bostik recently renamed it "GlideCote". Spray it on, let dry a few minutes, then wipe off the milky residue. Repeat if first time treating, and reapply periodically, as needed. The treatment lasts a long time, makes workpieces glide easily across the tool surface, retards rusting and prevents pitch from sticking. I've yet to try applying it on files, but see no reason why it won't work to reduce sticking of metal shavings and also help slow corrosion. Within a month or two I'll be cutting on the southern Oregon coast, that should be a good trial...
 
Never heard of the soda straw trick. I know where I can get 'em for free and plan on doing so. Thanks for the cool trick.

My long departed cutting partner (The Old Dead Logger) used to jam his files into old worn out gloves. One file per finger hole, and problem solved. I still really miss that guy; a true class act he was. RIP Darrel.....
 
If you eat a lot of fast food, you can 'color-code' your files by size.

And if you want to get really fancy, you can heat seal, staple, or duct tape the ends to keep files without handles from sliding through.

Philbert

That's why this place IS cool. I manage to learn something almost every time I dive on in to the great big swamp that is AS.
 
Thanks again for all the replies. I have learned a great deal about file care. I never knew about a file card or that you could clean a file using a piece of hardwood or bamboo.

I wonder if dragging a round file backwards on hardwood and twisting it might work to clean it. I may also file a piece of chalk to help keep the file from clogging.

I also like the idea of keeping the file in a plastic straw. My file is attached to a guide so I may see if I can find a plastic container that will hold the whole guide.
 
I also like the idea of keeping the file in a plastic straw. My file is attached to a guide so I may see if I can find a plastic container that will hold the whole guide.

You can just use a strip of cardboard cut from a cereal box and a couple of rubber bands or twisty ties.
Does not have to be fancy. Just has to keep the file teeth from banging into things.

Philbert
 
Back
Top