How to sharpen Maul and ax with files

[Wildeman]

I have been convinced that I must split my wood by hand and buy a fiskers splitting maul, i have a 8 bl and 6 bl that i got from my dad and father in law when they passed away and neither had used wood in years and both mauls DULL and NICKED (I did most of the damage on one). So, How do I sharpen my Maul and ax with files and what type of files do i need (bastard???) what is that.opcorn:

 

[gregfox]

Use a grinder and put a sharp edge on it.

 

[Wildeman]

Use a grinder and put a sharp edge on it.

I saw online somewhere that the grinder will temper the metal and that is bad. That said i really know nothing about nothing when it comes to this.

 

[CTYank]

I saw online somewhere that the grinder will temper the metal and that is bad. That said i really know nothing about nothing when it comes to this.

Yeah, everything you hear on the Internet is true.

Starting with a chubby-cheeked bludgeon maul, to reshape it for effective wood-splitting:
I clamp a maul on its side in a "work-mate" or such and do one face at a time with a 6" disc grinder. You keep it moving, eh. The goal: a relatively flat face with a moderately sharp edge. Couple of minor nicks, no problem.

Coarse rigid disc first, progressing to flexible discs- coarse, then fine. Take it easy and keep the temps down.

Both the shape and the edge are important, IMHO. You can easily make a cheapie maul work much better than a Fiskars, and with much greater expected longevity. Tactics and accuracy are much more important than brute force.

 

[Incomplete]

I saw online somewhere that the grinder will temper the metal and that is bad. That said i really know nothing about nothing when it comes to this.

Grinder's super heat the metal and DE-temper, or removes the temper, from the edge.

All you need to know, right here:

http://youtu.be/I55QyJXHk2E

As the mauls are old, they should be properly formed: the cheeks of the blade should be tapered. Most modern American mauls are completely worthless off the shelf, and if you have to radically alter them, a total waist of time. The same goes for axes and hatchets. Many formerly great american traditional tools are being drop poured in Mexico.

Go here: http://www.helkonorthamerica.com/

And here: http://www.treestuff.com/store/products.asp?category_id=279

for your striking tools if you don't have a local lumber jack supply store. And I found my axe stone at Bass Pro of all places after searching high and low for it on the internets

 

[FLHX Storm]

If the nicks aren't too bad, a bastard or flat metal file will do the trick. Most tend to go from the handle towards the edge, but I like to go from one side of the edge to the other using my thumb as a guide to achieve the proper angle and usually end up with a fairly sharp edge just from that. Then follow through with an axe sharpener to finish the edge.

Others like to use a grinder but personally I think those are too aggressive since it could tend to overheat the edge of the axe. Keep in mind, heat tempers, and it is also heat that removes the temper. So if your going to use a grinder be sure to keep the head cool by keeping some cold water handy to periodically dip the head in periodically.

Others like to use a course sharpening stone. Feathering it towards the edge.

All the methods work, but it's up to you to figure which one will work the best for you.

 

[FLHX Storm]

These are my chopping n splitting implements. Each has it's purpose and in some cases multiple purposes. N for CTYank, yep, there stands my beloved FISKARS of which you so despise!

Each have been recently sharpened with the method I described as my preference. If you want real closeups of the axe or hatchet heads, just ask.

View attachment 274160 View attachment 274161

 

[woodchuck357]

Unless you are using a chopping ax

don't worry about ruining the temper, splitting tools are seldom hardened that much. That's why a trip into the dirt (rocks) causes a dent type of nick instead of a chip as a good ax would. Grinding for 5 or 10 min to improve the shape of a tool makes more sense, to me, than laying out big bucks or spending lots of time with a file. I use a 4 inch angle grinder, then finish with a bench grinder.

Money spent on a 15 dollar mex or chink maul is money going out of the country, just less than 200 going to Europe!:sure:

 

[NDtreehugger]

I use a 1" belt sander to re shape and sharpen. it takes more time then a grinder but it leaves no deap scratches.

 

[Nosmo]

What Can I Use ???

You can use a file on your axe and it will work but also take up more of your time. Another method would be the sharpening tool made by Fiskars . I can't comment on how well it works but I suspect it works well just by judging their other products.

Here is what I'd use and I do use it to sharpen my axes and my commerical size zero turn mower's blades. I use an angle grinder with a flap disc. Running it on a slow speed will not blue the edges and a person can put a razor's edge on one if that fine an edge is wanted.

Nosmo

 

[vincem77]

I learned from an old timer to take the knife edge off my axe and it seems to last much longer betweeen filings for splitting. Hard to describe but I run my file perpendicular to the axe first so that it doesnt have a very thin edge that is prone to roll over. Then file normally to get it somewhat sharp but with a thicker cutting edge and it lasts longer. If you were sharpening a competition axe this would not work very well, but for splitting it helps it last alot longer.

 

[mountainmandan]

You are not going to change the temper with a grinder if you make light passes. If you do heat it up enough, you will see a color change, but don't worry, it will just be superficial, and if you wait just a little bit, you can remove the blued metal.

Question, do you guys think all commercial axes, knives and mauls are hand sharpened? Not likely, the people who sharpen them know how to do it without changing the temper.

So don't worry too much about it and if you get a little too aggressive, you can always go back and fix it.

Besides, if it is quick and easy to sharpen, instead of a chore, you will keep your tools in better condition, and work will be easier.

Dan

 

[kwalshy]

To put a new edge on I use a Dremel.

To sharpen the existing edge I use a hand file.

If the edge is FUBAR I use the grinding wheel.

I've never experienced any issues using the above methods.

 

[macattack_ga]

I've had good results with a flap disc / angle grinder.

 

[ChrisHager]

I guess if it gets too bad, you could always heat 'er up and re-forge it!



As per the Fiskars sharpening device, I have one and it does a pretty good job I'd say. I've dinged my blade a few times - I haven't sharpened them out yet but I always pass the blade through the sharpener before and after splitting, sometimes during depending on the day. If you sharpen your blade often, it only takes a couple minutes to keep a fine edge.

 

[zogger]

I used to work in a woodshop that had a lot of lathes. The knives were sharpened by a dedicated tool guy, that was his only job. He had a bench with a huge assortment of grinders setup, various wheels. Everything you can imagine. Everyone there brought in knives, axes, scissors, etc and he would sharpen them. He just looked at it, went to the appropriate grinder to start, and finished everything with a rouge wheel.

I gave him my generic axe which I had about wore out trying to split dutch elm...two minutes later he brings it back better than factory new sharp. Really, like two minutes from walking away to his little shop to walking back, he knew his stuff.

 

[Whitespider]

I sharpen axes, mauls and hatchets with a bastard file, and then finish with a stone... grinders are used only for re-shaping, then the file and stone finish. A maul is a large hunk of steel and would take a lot of grinding before challenging the temper... except close to the cutting edge. Grinding the cutting edge on any cutting tool will ruin it's ability to "hold" the edge.

 

[kd460]

I have reshaped old worn out axe heads with a hand held grinder and flapper wheel, as well as some work with a belt sander. Never had a problem with losing the temper.

A bastard file works great for keeping axes sharp. I usually hit them after each splitting/chopping session. I work the file to the bit (sharp edge) to the poll (the back or butt of the axe head). If you have a good file it don't take much and you can feel when your working the file correctly (just like sharpening a chain, you know when the file is working/cutting right). Stay on top of keeping an edge on it and keeping them sharp will be easy. KD

 

[STIHLCRAZYBOY]

If you want some more info, go on youtube and look up how to sharpen an axe by wranglerstar. He uses the bastard file and a sharpening stone.

 

[Iron Head]

I've had good results with a flap disc / angle grinder.

I'm a flap disc nut. I love them. A few light passes with an angle grinder and then fine tune with a water stone.
Wipe down with corrosionX and I'm in business.