I need a bigger truck.

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I hunted down a pair of Timbren load levelers [rubber dougnuts] for the Tacoma, which I've been led to believe do not alter vehicle handling or ride unless loaded to max. About a hundred bucks. Haven't put them on yet, but I'm gettin there.
 
I hunted down a pair of Timbren load levelers [rubber dougnuts] for the Tacoma, which I've been led to believe do not alter vehicle handling or ride unless loaded to max. About a hundred bucks. Haven't put them on yet, but I'm gettin there.

I have Timbrens on my 1997 F150 and I really like them.

Kevin
 
I have an 85 Toyota short bed. After using it to haul some landscaping stone I quickly learned that the springs were much to soft for a real load. I had some 1/2 and 3/4 ton Chevy spring packs laying around from rebuilding 3 73-87 trucks. I took the main leaf and overload leaf off a 3/4 ton pack and used the main leaf from the Toyota spring on the back. Toyota leafs are 2 1/4 inch wide and Chevy's are 2 1/2 so the bolts wont go over them without some grinding or changing the spring perch for a wider spring. In the front I used the 2nd and 3rd leaf from a 1/2 ton Chevy pack in addition to the 1st and 2nd Toyota leaf. Now I can put 1 1/2 tons in the bed without touching the bump stops. It gained about 1 1/2 inch lift in the front and 2 1/2 inches in the back. I only load the truck that heavy for around the house work as the brakes are still stock and a good bump would bottom the suspension. Toyota axles and the housing aren't the strongest parts around so they wont hold up to this kind of abuse.

Took some pics of my Toyota loaded today. With this load of hickory, oak, and locust I still have 2-3 inches of suspension up travel in the back. Now I know that 1 tons will haul loads that make this look like a joke but I'm not maxed out on this little truck with the bed overfilled.
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After I unloaded it in the first row of my stack (you can tell from the lighter color of the fresh cuts) I measured over one face cord. Those are 20 inch logs so I am just under 1/2 a cord on that short-bed mini truck. Just for reference that is a 36 inch handle in my maul and the post are 10 feet apart.
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The best haulers around for the buck are Army surplus 2 1/2 Ton trucks, commonly called "Deuce and a Half's". They have an 8' X 12' bed, and are rated to haul 5 tons on the road. The 2 1/2 ton rating is off road, but I doubt that you will complain about the payload rating again. The engines will run on either gas or diesel, or a mixture of both. The trucks only go about 45 mph, but they are 10 wheel drive.

Here is a link for a surplus guy in Philadelphia:

http://www.easternsurplus.net/deuce.html
 
Took some pics of my Toyota loaded today. With this load of hickory, oak, and locust I still have 2-3 inches of suspension up travel in the back. Now I know that 1 tons will haul loads that make this look like a joke but I'm not maxed out on this little truck with the bed overfilled.
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After I unloaded it in the first row of my stack (you can tell from the lighter color of the fresh cuts) I measured over one face cord. Those are 20 inch logs so I am just under 1/2 a cord on that short-bed mini truck. Just for reference that is a 36 inch handle in my maul and the post are 10 feet apart.
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marty mcfly would be proud! bet he never did that with his
 
I have a 99 Tacoma but with a new job coming up I'll have the money to get a bigger truck soon. The yota is staying but what would be the best 3/4 and up I could get w/o a cdl? My experience with bigger trucks are a 1989 superduty (f450) dump and my boss's 98/99? F350 superduty. I plan on staying away from the Triton because it blows plugs but the 350 seems pretty rugged otherwise. Preferrably something older/cheaper since I won't be making a living with it, and standard shift would be mandatory. I hear good things about the 7.3 and like the older f450's. What about general motors 3/4 and up say pre 97?
 
. What about general motors 3/4 and up say pre 97?

You can't go wrong with a 73-87 K20/K30 (3/4 - 1 ton chevy's)

Simple, easy to work on, built like a tank, very cheap to fix....etc.

Find one with a 4 spd granny, 205 transfer case and a 14ff rear end and you'll be set - haul as much as you want!

Keep an eye on craigslist - cash for clunkers killed this market, but they are still out there for a steal if you find the right one.

Good luck!
 
I personally would stay away from the diesel's unless you are gonna drive it alot. For the price of 5 injectors on a 7.3 powerstroke you can put a new 350 in a truck not to mention the cost of maintenence and parts if you need them. Also a diesel in the woods is very heavy in the front and believe me they stick easy. I have an f-350 with the 6.0 liter diesel and it sticks real easy with that heavy front end and yes it is 4x4!
 
What's the difference between the 20 and the 30? Higher capacity axles and springs or are the frames different?
And 350 vs. 400? Isn't the 400 a bored over 350?
The reason I'd consider a diesel would be for 40-50 mi round trip firewood deliveries to have a leg up on the guys with the gas guzzlers, but if that's negated with higher maintenance costs it doesn't sound worth it. GM diesels suck anyways, at least the 6.2 and 6.5 from what I hear.
What about the 89-97 chevy's? Any good or no?
In terms of Ford vs. GM 1975-90's, strengths and weaknesses of both? I hear good stuff about the Ford straight 6?
 
What's the difference between the 20 and the 30? Higher capacity axles and springs or are the frames different?
And 350 vs. 400? Isn't the 400 a bored over 350?
The reason I'd consider a diesel would be for 40-50 mi round trip firewood deliveries to have a leg up on the guys with the gas guzzlers, but if that's negated with higher maintenance costs it doesn't sound worth it. GM diesels suck anyways, at least the 6.2 and 6.5 from what I hear.
What about the 89-97 chevy's? Any good or no?
In terms of Ford vs. GM 1975-90's, strengths and weaknesses of both? I hear good stuff about the Ford straight 6?

I'll try answer a couple questions - based on 4x4 trucks from the 70's. Some 3/4 ton's in the 80's might have a semi floating 14 bolt rear - you really want to try and find a full floating 14 bolt - rated much higher. All 1 tons had the full floater...

K20/25 series is a 3/4 ton typically equipped with a dana 44 or corp 10 bolt front (depends on year) and 14ff rear axle. Number of leafs is based on how it was ordered - anywhere from 5 rear leafs to 7 leafs.

K30/35 series is a 1 ton typically equipped with a dana 60 front (stronger than the dana 44 or 10bolt) and a 14ff rear axle. Number of leafs is again based on how it was ordered but has more than the 3/4 ton. 30 series also has a slightly heavier frame (I think its about 1/2" higher than the 3/4 ton)

Both trucks could come with a 350. They can also come equipped with a SM465 (4sp man) and a NP205 transfer case. That combo is VERY strong and damn near bullet proof with little maintenance.

Either truck would make an excellent firewood hauler when using the standard bed. If you are thinking about a flat bed or dump, I would go with the 30 series IMO.

As for the Ford 300 "6", it is near the top IMO for a truck engine. Great low end torque, runs forever and is fairly simple to work on...

hope I helped...
 
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:cheers:
Good stuff, what it'll come down to is what I can get a good deal on. An older 1 ton chevy sounds like it would be exactly what I'm looking for. What about bolting in a vortec 350, any idea? The more modern one would seemingly get alot better fuel economy.
 
What's the difference between the 20 and the 30? Higher capacity axles and springs or are the frames different?
And 350 vs. 400? Isn't the 400 a bored over 350?
The reason I'd consider a diesel would be for 40-50 mi round trip firewood deliveries to have a leg up on the guys with the gas guzzlers, but if that's negated with higher maintenance costs it doesn't sound worth it. GM diesels suck anyways, at least the 6.2 and 6.5 from what I hear.
What about the 89-97 chevy's? Any good or no?
In terms of Ford vs. GM 1975-90's, strengths and weaknesses of both? I hear good stuff about the Ford straight 6?

Ya beat me to it!

A K20 is a 4wd 3/4 ton truck
A K30 is a 4wd 1 ton truck
Replace the K with a C and you lose the 4wd
A 400 is a different animal than a 350. For starters it's externally ballanced, has a longer stroke and a bigger bore, and completely different block with siamesed bores and loss of a few water jackets.
Contrary to popular belief it will not overheat with the proper setup, and you can stroke them out and make some real torque monsters that will eat big blocks.
You didn't mention anything but a chevy 383 is a 350 with a 400 stroke, very fun as well and just as cheap to build as a 350. My next race engine will be the stroked 400 though;)
 
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Right, 4wd=k, c=2wd, and the 20-30 being 3/4-full ton I understand. The lines seem to get fuzzy between the 3/4 and 1 ton in terms of what's actually different besides gvwr.

Aah, I see you guys added some stuff.

:cheers:
 
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The old 89 superduty dump at a former place of employment was pretty impressive in terms of payload- it took 2 250 gal cubes of waste coolant like a champ one time, although the brakes seemed like they could barely stop the truck.
 
3/4 ton, 1 ton, if the frame is in good shape you probably can't go wrong.
My 69 K20, this load is 4500-5000lbs pulled out of the woods. It's got the 465 trans/205 transfer and full floaters, Combined with an extra leaf or two and a trailer, it's all I will need.. (fingers crossed)

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