Jonsered can anybody tell me what?

[skunk]

I don't want to tear the jug off to measure the bore.The stroke is 38mm and I see that there is are a few models with that stroke.There are no stickers left to id.Maybe someone can id from some photos.A tree fell on it I had to weld up the top cover.

 

[skunk]

another picture

Picture isn't too good.

 

[SawTroll]

Jonsereds 801

That sure looks like a Jred 801!

Have you weighted it?

 

[Mange]

I think it is a 80, but if you really want to know, ask Motorsag.
He is a member at this site, the best I know on Jonny Reds.

 

[SawTroll]

The model 80 was a "silvertop" and did not have the "ribs" that is present on the read end of the top cover on the saw in question, I think. It had a round filter cover instead.
There is of course a possibility that the original top cover (++) also has been a casuality , and has been replaced by one from the 801 (or 90).

 

[SawTroll]

Here is one with full wrap handle:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=9708&highlight=801

 

[Mange]

I don't want to tear the jug off to measure the bore.The stroke is 38mm and I see that there is are a few models with that stroke.There are no stickers left to id.Maybe someone can id from some photos.A tree fell on it I had to weld up the top cover.

Good work on the cover. What did you weld it with?
Take the muffler off and mesure the bore from exoust port.

It could be a 801, as Saw Troll say, looks very close.

 

[galde]

Remove the muffler and measure the bore by determining the difference between the depth to the piston and the depth to the far side of the cylinder.

 

[glens]

I don't want to tear the jug off to measure the bore.The stroke is 38mm

It would be quite a bit easier to determine the bore size without disassembling the saw than to determine the stroke.  How did you arrive at the 38mm figure?

 

[Chainsaw Master]

Looks like its a 70E....wore a few of them out, was a real good saw for the times

 

[skunk]

stroke

By using a caliper.By inserting the sliding end of the caliper down the spark plug hole until you hit the piston,taking your reading.Then turn over crank untell the caliper stops moving.Subtract the number and I came up with 38mm.I like the idea of removing the muffer to measure the bore,I need to remember these are two stroke instead of four. The top cover I relieved was magnesum so I didn't test it.I tig welded it with a magnesum tig rod,It was either a poor grade of mag or some kind of pot metal.If anybody needs to know the rod number I can post it.I will post the bore size as so as I measure it,thank you.

 

[Mange]

Yes please post the rod number, that is pretty good, I have tried a few different, but none was even close.

Thanks.

 

[Axeman]

It is a Jonsered 90.Axeman.

 

[Axeman]

What kind of rod did you use?? Axeman.

 

[skunk]

Bore 54mm

I believe axeman is correct.38mm stroke and 54mm bore is larger than an 80.Is the 90 a good saw?I have only cut about a quart of a cord of ash with it,the chain isn't cutting too well.So I can't judge the power of this saw.Thanks to every body who replied about this saw.I realily need to remember that saws are two stroke.Measuring though the exhaust worked great.I'll post that rod number on Monday because I have it at work.

 

[eyolf]

Looks just exactly like the 90 in my barn, except the welded crack on my cover is smaller! Mine has the "star" gas cap, "crossbar" oil cap, cutaway on the side where hot air exits looks the same, thumb nut holding air cleaner is same, spark plug cover too.

Be aware that the 80 and 90 were about the same saw, ust different bore diameters, so you'll need to check that to be certain. those older saws are wonderful for inexperienced users...lots and lots of torque, pull harder at low rpm, even though they don't have the peak HP of a newer saw. Be careful, though, as they don't have a chain brake, and the bigger the saw, the bigger chance of snapping a chain in a tough cut.

I look my chains over very carefully after wintertime cutting. The links can get hot in a tough cut, then chill rapidly in the snow and cold, or in wet wood. I see cracks sometimes around rivet holes and usually get a little worried and discard the chain, rather than take a chance...

 

[jimbo1490]

That saw is defintely a 90. The 80 and 90 look similar but the 80 lacks the compression release, clearly visible on the top. The model 90 is quite powerful. Mine will easily spin an 8 tooth sprocket with a 24" bar taking full cuts in oak (the only kind of tree I ever seem to cut round my place ). I use a 7 tooth sprocket when using the 30" bar. By ear I'd say it likes to run at around 10,000 rpm for peak power, but will pull up nicely if you bog it down without having to release from the cut to let it catch up. It is easy to over-rev this saw with a 7 sprocket unless using a long bar.
Many of these older Jonsereds saws could optionally be equipped with an old style chain brake. Mine used to have one, but it has been disabled by the previous owner.

Jimbo

 

[skunk]

Magnesium rod

J W Harris R AZ61A Magnesium tig part no. AZ61T50 www.jwharris.com

 

[Chris J.]

The lower portion of the throttle handle doesn't

match the one on my 90. There may be other differences, but right now my 90 isn't easy to reach. Try acresinternet.com. I did a LOT of digging around there trying to ID my 90. Fortunately Mike Acres has several good photos a pristine 90, which I believe belongs to George Blake a/k/a Motorsag. I've got a dusty Jred in my garage that I need to i.d.

I might be wrong (wouldn't be the first time, or the last), but I think Rob In VA later posted that his saw is a 80, not a 801.

Chris J.

 

[Mange]

Post it, Chris and maby we can get an Id on that too.