LSS (Local Saw Shop) wants $5 to sharpen chain

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I realized AFTER I sold the ORegon that it was a DC motor but I had other problems with it and sold it for more than I paid for it The Foley is spot on when I set the angle stops and just flip it to the stop for the backs. A funny thing anout the Borazons though is I used to slow the vitrified wheels with my rag before I'd reverse the motor. You only do that ONCE with a segmented wheel.

Yes I was quite impressed with my stupidity

There are still little pieces of red lint in the guard I leave as a reminder
 
Have you tried the chainwax?....or whatever they call it these days

This is frustrating....I don't have a cad program to draw the reversing diagram.
Do you Dolmaritos?
 
Hmmm, a dpdt switch has 6 terminals, when you throw it either direction it connects the center ones to the outside. Just run an extra set of wires to the motor.

This is a primitave drawing. Makes pretty good sense if you get the right switch. Double pole, double throw.

OK, have no darn clue how to include pictures. I don't have any of them online. Help? Otherwise, PM me for diagram of reversing switch.
 
Do you have it on your comp somewhere?
If you do there is a ",anage attachments below the box here where you can upload it. I'd have to hand draw a diagram and scan it.
 
PEST said:
Have you tried the chainwax?....or whatever they call it these days

This is frustrating....I don't have a cad program to draw the reversing diagram.
Do you Dolmaritos?

I did it on paintbrush...looked goofy. Just google: DPDT Reversing diagram. See what it brings up. i guess an engineering background makes me think this is a simple process.
 
Member Patrick62 has a nice drawing of how he set his 511 up to reverse. You might PM him and ask for it.
 
That looks great now
Guys ONLY THE BLACK DOTS ARE CONNECTED I made the mistake of not being specific about that more than once
 
Yeah, it's just reversing the input polarity connected to the outside posts so that you can connect them to the motor. It's like switching the wires around on your motor when you flip the switch. Make sure you get a switch with center-off position.
 
We change $10 Plus tax. No price resistance around here. Any chain not rocked-out or butchered by prior attempts to sharpen is done by hand. Only takes a few minutes (3-6) for a typical chain,

If we grind - Blue cutters? Nope.. It's all about feed rate and unloading. I "bounce" the wheel to vary the duty cycle, and spark-out at the end cut. If I need to take a big bite, make two passes. Cool-grind works great on vitrified, but I mainly use the Borazon wheels. Reversing? Nope.. No need.
 
$4

That's what I pay here. I only get them to do it when it's real buggered up though. Hand filing is the only way to go...
 
looks like $5 is pretty standard

I guess that $5 is pretty standard and most folks seem to really enjoy the art of chain sharpening.

thanks for all the input i am off to bailey's

Kevin
 
Lakeside53 said:
Cool-grind works great on vitrified, but I mainly use the Borazon wheels. Reversing? Nope.. No need.

Is cool grind a brand of wheel dressing wax? I've never tried a commercial product and would like to on my vitrified wheels. Is it a readily available product?

Any idea of Borazon wheels are made for the Silvey 510 (round) or Pro sharp (square)? My guess is maybe square grinding is not the best application for a pre formed wheel, but not sure.
 
Lakeside53 said:
We change $10 Plus tax. No price resistance around here. Any chain not rocked-out or butchered by prior attempts to sharpen is done by hand. Only takes a few minutes (3-6) for a typical chain,

If we grind - Blue cutters? Nope.. It's all about feed rate and unloading. I "bounce" the wheel to vary the duty cycle, and spark-out at the end cut. If I need to take a big bite, make two passes. Cool-grind works great on vitrified, but I mainly use the Borazon wheels. Reversing? Nope.. No need.

Lakeside.

State of Illinois says it's a big No No to charge Sales Tax on labor. The grinding technique is not hard to learn but it takes a while to perfect. Two passes is when we charge $10.00. Reversing just stops from getting the Burr on the outside of the LH cutters.
 
Oh come on P.E.S.T. Lets hear it. I happen to enjoy your comments on these forums. Sometimes they sting, but I know you don't really mean to pizz anyone off or hurt their feelings. Feelings? We're saw guys, we don't have feelings!
 
Stihl dealer I use charges $8 for a 20" loop. No rakers. No bluing. I take my chains in once a year, usually at the end of my normal cutting season, get them all done. I hand-sharpen throughout the year after that. I use Stihl chain and I find that I need that once-a-yr. touch up by him. Then again, I'm not the world's greatest hand-sharpener. Particularly if I hit a rock or a nail buried in a tree or something. If the chain's salvageable, I set it aside til I'm ready to take them all in, got enough chains I can do without some of them and it isn't worth a drive all the way to a city to get one repaired. Hand sharpening, if I've really screwed up a few teeth, I have to take so much off to get back past the ugly part, then bring all the others back to match...life's too short with a hand file.
 
I charge $3 for under 24" and $4 for over. Rakers are included. Extra $1 if we take it off and put back on your saw.

Now there are choices. Most of my walk in customers are abusive and bring in chains that have been used for grinding rocks. If I have a chain that needs to be ran more than once I give the choice.... $4 for one pass and give you a chain better suited for rocks (heat treated), $4 per pass up to 6 passes, or a new chain. I have a few customers that actually take care of thier chain and a light kiss is all that it needs but few and far between are these guys in this little town. Most of the pro cutters all have their own Silvey Grinders any how.
 
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