Mac 10-10

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Pooh

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2009
Messages
72
Reaction score
1
Location
centeral MN
was given a pair of these saws the other day. in the process of tearing into them to give them the cleaning and attention that they need, i noticed that the bar oil tank cover said SAE 30 on it. am i suppoed to run 30 wt oil in it or is regular bar oil gonna be ok?
 
Pooh --

Regular Bar Oil is preferred/better. Use it.

Also many 10-10's had Adjustable Auto-Oilers.
Yours might/prolly does unless it's one of the very earliest models...

Inside that Bar-Oil cover is a small bolt pointing downwards.
Check your output.
Might want to increase it a bit, especially if running a 20+" bar.
It only takes a small turn [1/8] for it to change.

Best of luck with some great saws.
 
can anyone date these for me? one says electronic ignition, one does not. both have manual oilers, 16 in b&c also how many cc's are these, they seem to be quite the screeming saw. any other input on this type of saw would be great, this one is new to me
 
Mac 10-10's

can anyone date these for me? one says electronic ignition, one does not. both have manual oilers, 16 in b&c also how many cc's are these, they seem to be quite the screeming saw. any other input on this type of saw would be great, this one is new to me


Pooh --
Great post from the Acres site!

Look inside your carburator air-box.
There should be a metal tag with the Series ##'s & the Serial ##'s.

When checking out Acres, match your Series ##'s to the ones on the site. They are at thew top of the listing.
Bingo--got your saw model. These are 54cc saws [mostly].

The Electronic Ignition saw is one of the last made. Late Model & very good.

Regards.
 
Hello,
This is slightly off topic, but anyway... I have an old Mac 10-10 torn apart. Is this saw worth the time to rebuild? It probably just needs a carb kit and new starter pulley. Any opinions?




Husky 137
Husky Special 50
Husky 262xp
McCulloch PM 10-10 (Maybe)
John Deere Loader/Tractor

i shall answer this question the answer is
yes

reason why it is american branded not china not japan etc. but american branded

quality 10 out of 10
thanks
calvin
 
Hello,
This is slightly off topic, but anyway... I have an old Mac 10-10 torn apart. Is this saw worth the time to rebuild? It probably just needs a carb kit and new starter pulley. Any opinions?




Husky 137
Husky Special 50
Husky 262xp
McCulloch PM 10-10 (Maybe)
John Deere Loader/Tractor


Catfish ---

YES, absolutely fix this saw. From your description it needs very little...

I have [4] different styles of 10-10's. They are very stout, strong saws.
54-57cc's.
20" bar works great.
They will out-perform many new "high-tech" saws of similar size.
I've done side by side comparisons.

Tune it real sharp -- carb adjusted just right.
Run 100% Full Synthetic Oil.

Then try to wear it out!
One of the great saws of all time.
Regards.
 
I have an old Mac 10-10 torn apart. Is this saw worth the time to rebuild? It probably just needs a carb kit and new starter pulley. Any opinions?

yes you should!! when i got mine i looked at how much cleaning they needed and how old they were and decided i would start by making one good one and a possible parts saw. changed my mind when i got the first one done. 2 carb kits and some brake cleaner later, i have 2 screaming machines. i have actually not cut with them yet, waiting for the chains to be ground, the last guy was brushing ironwood and must like rocks.

has anyone done any modding to them to point the exahaust down or to quiet them down at all? if so any pics?
 
Last edited:
thanks to METALS406 this page shows all the info on my 2 saws. http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.ns...7?OpenDocument

according to this page these Mac 10-10 have an automatic oiler and maunal override. SO.. do i make sure that the oiler works, maybe turn it up a fuz and leave it at that, or do i still need to use the manual oiler too? how does that work? is the manual only if the automatic stops working?

It also says i should mix 20:1 is that true or is my 45-50:1 of stihl ultra and 91 octane ok?
 
I have several saws with automatic oilers and manual override as well. Use the automatic for normal work like limbing, and the manual for added oil when making heavy cuts or if you are in more dirt or pitch, etc. The manual oiler will also prime the pump to speed the oiling process if you run the oil tank empty.

Any high quality mix at 40:1 or 50:1 will be fine. The thick ratios on older saws were based on the relatively poor quality oils available at the time.

Mark
 
Back
Top