Making a race chain for gtg's. Help appreciated.

[benp]

Jeebus.:msp_scared:

That's pretty sweet!!!!

 

[Metals406]

That's out-of-the-box square. . . Wait until it's sharp.

 

[mdavlee]

Yep you get a good sharp square chain it will be under 2 seconds.

 

[Fedaburger]

Holy woodchips that's impressive. I want some square chain!!

 

[benp]

This thread has me thinking out loud a little.

Is there a way to improve some upon regular round filing by using some of these principles? Gullet, rakers front to back, etc?

Or.... is it not worth it?

I started using regular chisel again due to being in clean wood and I forgot how good it cut. The more aggressive chain (vs semi) actually seems to load the saws better, if that makes sense.

Andy, keep up the good work.

I cant wait to see this in action next week!!

 

[mdavlee]

This thread has me thinking out loud a little.

Is there a way to improve some upon regular round filing by using some of these principles? Gullet, rakers front to back, etc?

Or.... is it not worth it?

I started using regular chisel again due to being in clean wood and I forgot how good it cut. The more aggressive chain (vs semi) actually seems to load the saws better, if that makes sense.

Andy, keep up the good work.

I cant wait to see this in action next week!!

You can as you can see andy got good improvements with the round and work. Square is just better for faster chains.

 

[benp]

You can as you can see andy got good improvements with the round and work. Square is just better for faster chains.

Gotcha. Thanks.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Stock chain testing I did in 2010 before some of the new chains came out.


Found a post from 2010 I made.

For you guys talking about stihl and oregon chain cutting speeds. I tested cut speeds of stock chains and atop square guide filed chain. I dont think I had a fresh loop of LG to try. The atop chain was oregon LP 058 goofy and square filed and then my 30 min square atop filed.



I found a nice clean 10"x10" very dry poplar cant in the barn that has been there for well over a year now.

Saw was a 357xp 7T running 93 octane 32:1 and a rich 13.8k. 3 cuts per chain, which allowed for the unseen knot hit and operator error in some of the times.

Chains were work chains tested.

I know factory sharp chains are not the sharpest out of the box, but I wanted to have a base to go off of. So RSLK, RSLHK, CL, RS, factory sharp were tested.



A. Stihl RSLK factory sharp..................................4.09...4.53 ...4.13

B. Stihl RSLHK factory sharp.................................4.47...4.74. .4.28

F. Oregon CL factory sharp..................................3.88....4.2 0...4.25

K. Stihl RS factory sharp....................................4.18..... 4.21....4.12

C. ATOP square sent in by Goran...........................3.41...3.38..3.34

D. ATOP goofy sent in by Goran............................3.75...3.59...3.8 1

E. ATOP sq my 1st try using new guide..................3.96....3.88...3.76 filed in 30mins

 

[andydodgegeek]

This thread has me thinking out loud a little.

Is there a way to improve some upon regular round filing by using some of these principles? Gullet, rakers front to back, etc?

Or.... is it not worth it?

I started using regular chisel again due to being in clean wood and I forgot how good it cut. The more aggressive chain (vs semi) actually seems to load the saws better, if that makes sense.

Andy, keep up the good work.

I cant wait to see this in action next week!!

Yep, the round ground chain I made took me roughly 8 hours worth of grinding filing. It worked quite well I thought. Now I got a new out of the box square ground chain and with out doing anything to it I am faster than my 8hr round. Oh well, this is how you learn. Now I need to start figureing out how to get this square stuff sharp.

 

[parrisw]

Well got my chain finished. I'm a little disappointed in it, worst thing is I should of started with a chain that had more life left in it. It will cut none the less, how good? I don't know, I think I might have a too aggressive top plate angle, its very sharp, but may dull too quick, how do I know its sharp you ask!! Well not paying attention I was feeling the top plate and then put my hand down but rubbed my finger on the cutter behind it, freakin put a good gash in the end of my finger, cut it like a razor. I had some trouble keeping the left and right the same, need more practice, this is only the 3 chain I've filed goofy, and the first chain I've tried to make "fast". Here are a few pics, you can all laugh now, all hand done, took forever.

 

[Dennis Cahoon]

Willie......try putting the file in the point of the tooth.....Hahahahahaha!

 

[parrisw]

Willie......try putting the file in the point of the tooth.....Hahahahahaha!

You talking about the corner? I know, need more practice. I find it kinda hard to follow on the goofy file since the edge is round, so there is not a distinguished corner on the file, if that's what you mean.

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

So what exactly are you guys doing to the back of the cutter and how? Also what does this do in return to make it faster?

 

[parrisw]

So what exactly are you guys doing to the back of the cutter and how? Also what does this do in return to make it faster?

Just grinding it back.

 

[lmbrman]

So what exactly are you guys doing to the back of the cutter and how? Also what does this do in return to make it faster?

clearence/chip flow i think-

 

[Hedgerow]

Just grinding it back.

The cutting point is far more important than what's behind it...
Just thinking out loud here... Just got done trying something on a round filed chain...
Worked out pretty good... Once I get the cutter point just right, I'll deal with the rest of the cutter... :msp_wink:

 

[andydodgegeek]

clearence/chip flow i think-

Thats what I think. If you look at a tooth it looks as though it slants down towards the back and if you take away some of the back of the tooth you will have more room for chips to pass thru. This is what I think am I right?

 

[Hedgerow]

Thats what I think. If you look at a tooth it looks as though it slants down towards the back and if you take away some of the back of the tooth you will have more room for chips to pass thru. This is what I think am I right?

Might have more to do with reducing drag... The rakers should move the chips out I would think...

 

[HELSEL]

Might have more to do with reducing drag... The rakers should move the chips out I would think...

. I think the raker is more of a depth
gauge and does not rake the sawdust
or chips out. It may take out a small
percentage of it. If it was going to
play the part of a rake it would be as
wide as the kerf??

 

[Hedgerow]

. I think the raker is more of a depth
gauge and does not rake the sawdust
or chips out. It may take out a small
percentage of it. If it was going to
play the part of a rake it would be as
wide as the kerf??

Well??? We know it's a depth gauge... But does the following tooth take care of chip removal???
And how does the back of the tooth help in this matter???