Making a race chain for gtg's. Help appreciated.

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Well??? We know it's a depth gauge... But does the following tooth take care of chip removal???
And how does the back of the tooth help in this matter???
:confused:

If you do a little test with your
saw!! Ok. Cut into the cant and kill it in
the middle don't move the saw, Break
the cookie off without moving the saw.
Break it all the way down where you can see
the cutters. You will find most of your chips in front
of the the cutter.
 
If you do a little test with your
saw!! Ok. Cut into the cant and kill it in
the middle don't move the saw, Break
the cookie off without moving the saw.
Break it all the way down where you can see
the cutters. You will find most of your chips in front
of the the cutter.

Now that's a good idea!
:rock:
 
I thought taking the back of the tooth forward, reduced drag.

Yes, that and weight. When the chain
starts spinning at high RPM the weight
will make it leave the bar. It makes switching
tough when your chain is flying out of
the bar 2 inches. I am talking about the
open mod saws running 14-15 tooth drive
sprokets.
 
Yes, that and weight. When the chain
starts spinning at high RPM the weight
will make it leave the bar. It makes switching
tough when your chain is flying out of
the bar 2 inches. I am talking about the
open mod saws running 14-15 tooth drive
sprokets.

Right, makes sense! Thanks.
 
If you do a little test with your
saw!! Ok. Cut into the cant and kill it in
the middle don't move the saw, Break
the cookie off without moving the saw.
Break it all the way down where you can see
the cutters. You will find most of your chips in front
of the the cutter.

Yep. Depth gauge is a depth gauge, soft wood or hard wood. It probably helps a depth gauge to assist in pushing some chips to have a straighter lead edge and flatten top but probably still not enough to be considered an effective raker. Maybe most effective in real small wood, where there is less travel before the chips are out of the kerf. It is just to thin of a profile as was previously mentioned. A chain will still cut if the depth gauges are completely removed, chips will still load up in front of the cutters and it will still "function", just not safely or in any way conveniently like a chain with depth gauges.
 
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This was my first ever attempt at filing square. I missed the inside corner a bit.

fac0bcdf.jpg
 
So what exactly are you guys doing to the back of the cutter and how? Also what does this do in return to make it faster?:confused:

Have you ever seen a cutter from a chain that was run dull long enough or without enough oil to load up the outside of the top plate with baked on saw dust, sap and oil?

Many times the very lead edge of the cutter will be "pushed" down or have the chrome pulled off then the middle section of the top plate will have some baked on grime and then the heal end of the top plate will be clean.

The heal end is getting cleaned from contact with solid un cut wood.

When to cutter is biting in, severing the chip, hitting the depth gauge, and pulling back out as the chain is retensioned by the next cutter the heal end of the cutter is touching the solid uncut next layer of wood. That is drag on the chain, vibration and increases heal and toe wear on the tie straps and builds up additional heat, more stretch.

Theory being that a little dovetailing is a good thing then a bunch must be a great thing.

If the saw is fast enough, the chain is sharp enough and or the wood being cut large enough the chip tunnel or space between the tie straps, the inside of the side plate and top plate and the kerf will hold chips beyond the clutch cover all the way across the top of the bar and past the exposed tip and back into the working end of the kerf. Obviously this is not a good thing as it presents an already partly loaded chip tunnel to the new sequence of cutting and transporting chips. Having a shortened top plate and side plate will allow the chips in the chip tunnel to clear easier and make the chip tunnel more effective. The chips will fill the space between the heal edge of a cutter and and the compressed heal edge of the next cutter. If to much chip is present having been pulled all the way around the bar then the cutter has to cut chips first and then hopefully bite into uncut wood before the depth gauge hits and the chain is retensioned. The profile of a centered depth gauge allows it to hit predictably even in a typical loaded chip tunnel.

Except VanGaurd, an evil evil chain.

Clearing gullets makes a huge difference but if things are going really well then having the heal end of the cutter nipped back a bit will make a difference. Less chip compression and metal to clear.

In terms of Hensel"s comments about weight reduction, I could see that being a concern on saws that are much, much, much, much more powerful than mine. However, I will grin ear to ear if I ever get a pedictable 2" of lift off a 14" or 16" bar on one of my saws and then I will back away slowly from it.
 
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This was my first ever attempt at filing square. I missed the inside corner a bit.

fac0bcdf.jpg


the inside corner like you cut it should actually be faster cutting ,think of the tooth like a knife blade longer the angle of the cutter the sharper it will be ,my square cuts go dull faster than a stock chain ,but they are sharper due to the taper of the cutter ,with a fille its pretty tough to be perfect ,grinder a lot the work out of it
 
Well this weekend is my GTG and I look forward to trying out my chains, finally something that might give me an "edge" over the competition.

The chain is a good place to find it and payin close attention to the really good operators is something else to watch and learn from.
Wish i could be there, y'all have fun!
 
Opinions on the atop square sharpener? Is it worth $200? Just curious.

I refuse to spend a dime on anything other than a file...
Till I ante up for a Silvey grinder...
:msp_sneaky:
Then you're in trouble Andy...

And yes, the A-Top worked well for J Johnson it seemed...
 
Opinions on the atop square sharpener? Is it worth $200? Just curious.

I have no comment on the functioning of the A-Top but the price is high enough to make me pass on it. I would rather keep saving for an actual grinder, much more money but much more productive and more adjustable.
 
I would pass and look for a used grinder. I got one of the RS II for $206 to my door.
 
If there were more demand for square the price would come down on the grinders.
It seems like the not staying sharp and square just being suitable for softwoods and larger displacement saws is over stated.
Not that my opinion matters much..
 
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