Making my first post a thanks!

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Welcome to AS !
Congrats on bringing the Mac back to life. Let's have a video ?
 
Nice saw...
Welcome aboard, were all sick here, your next!:hmm3grin2orange:
And you will be getting more wood to cut before you ever thought you would!:dizzy:
 
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Looks pretty good too
 
Nice looking saw! And, your right about this being a good place for info. But,I now have way too many saws. Yea, Right!
 
welcome to AS, hope you find it everything you hope for in a website thats interactive.:chainsawguy:
 
How Does She Sound?

I got my chain sharpened finally and attacked the hazelnut tree in the backyard that has been in decline since we moved in. Took a little adjustement on both the low and high screws to run smooth but I thought Id post her running and see what you thought...
Im not sure if I can embed this video somehow?
[video=vimeo;19416234]http://vimeo.com/19416234[/video]

Also, when you guys are running your saws how much are you oiling the chain?
And, this is definitely a newb question but can you over-rev a saw like this?

Thanks again for a the help bringing her back to cutting!
:rock:
 
Also, when you guys are running your saws how much are you oiling the chain?
And, this is definitely a newb question but can you over-rev a saw like this?

Thanks again for a the help bringing her back to cutting!
:rock:

Over rev occurs mainly when the high mixture screw is set too lean, you will know it's too lean by the abnormal and cool sounding "scream" of the engine. If you tune for a four-stroke sounding blubber out of the cut, and it cleans up in the cut, you're good to go.

As for oiling, it really depends on the bar. I probably would've push the button once or twice per cut you made in the video. The longer the bar, and the bigger the hunk of wood you're cuting, the more oil you need. As long as you don't smell burning wood, you're probably okay.

Nice saw! :cheers:
 
Oiling

Im glad I asked about the oiling as I wasnt oiling nearly that often.

Thanks for the reply as well about the over rev. Is it possible to damage the motor it such a situation assuming the saw is under load?

Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.

Saucy
 
Im glad I asked about the oiling as I wasnt oiling nearly that often.

Thanks for the reply as well about the over rev. Is it possible to damage the motor it such a situation assuming the saw is under load?

Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.

Saucy

Leaning tuning a saw out of the cut is a bad idea, the saw leans out a little under load. So setting rich out of the cut so it makes the four stroke blubber sound, and "cleans" up as in it doesn't make the blubbering four-stroke sound is what I mean by the cleaning up in the cut. It would still be sufficently rich in the cut, as long as it has the WOT four stroke blubber out of the cut.

Someone more capable of explaining this properly to him, please do so, I haven't even tuned a saw yet... just saying what I read on threads around here...

will quickly wear down the cylinder and piston/piston rings, and can cause the bearings to seize up, basically destroying the saw.
 
In the cut

Thanks for the further explanation promac. I was looking for exactly that type of description and understand how difficult it can be to tell someone in words a specific sound.
Your description definitely makes sense and Ill have to work with the saw more to familiarize myself with it 'in the cut'...sounds like I have some more cutting in my future.
:fingers-crossed:
 
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Thanks for the further explanation promac. I was looking for exactly that type of description and understand how difficult it can be to tell someone in words a specific sound.
I think this video demonstrates the sounds he's referring to pretty well.
Start with the HS rich and turn it in until clean (2-stroking), then back it out until it just starts to 4-stroke. Then go cut. You should hear it change to 2-stroking when cutting and back to 4-stroking a bit when not. You can hear this Homelite change each time Wildman stops bearing down on it. It's a bit richer than it needs to be, but better rich than lean. Especially for sustained cutting. He leans it out a bit near the end.
Congrats on giving new life to that Mac !

[video=youtube;8lQmKbT_QnY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lQmKbT_QnY&feature=player_embedded[/video]
 
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Another thing...not sure if it has been mentioned concerning over revving. When not in the cut try not to run the saw at wide open throttle with out a load on the engine. Sometimes you have to in short bursts for tuning purposes but do not do it because a mac 10-10 sounds cool. I know its hard not to, I have a couple 10-10's myself and they are one of the best sounding saws, but doing that will seriously shorten the life of the saw. That a very nice vintage power match bar...wish I had one instead of laminates. Goop Luck. Soon you will buy saws for the sole purpose of fixing them and collecting. We call this CAD...chainsaw addiction disorder. Its too late you already have it. Your here at arboristsite aren't you? Therefore your infected.
 
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Looking at the IPL, the 2-10a should have an automatic oiler in addition to the manual overide. You might want to remove the cover from the oil tank and experiment with the adjustment to get the oiler set just right. Ideally you would use a tank of oil to a tank of fuel.

Does your 2-10 have the flat back style carburetor? Adjustment of those are quite different from the more conventional carburetors used on chain saws and if you are that close, you have done an admirable job.

Mark
 

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