Metering lever ?

[Brian VT]

I just put a 55 jug&slug on a Husq. 51. I put a carb. kit (Walbro WT) in while I had it off. I set the H and L out 1 turn. It would burp on choke and start on the next pull with choke off, but wouldn't idle. I backed out the L and it idles okay at 1 1/2 turns out. It dies if I try to give it any throttle. Then I need to choke/burp once and it will start and idle with choke off. Now I'm stuck.
I'm thinking maybe the metering lever needs adjustment ? I wanted to check here before messing with it.

 

[bullseye13]

You need to get a walbro and zama metering lever gauge. Your metering lever may be off from where it should be, may want to check the height of the lever. It should be level and flush with the carb body. Make sure you have the spacer gasket UNDER the diaphram gasket also.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I just put a 55 jug&slug on a Husq. 51. I put a carb. kit (Walbro WT) in while I had it off. I set the H and L out 1 turn. It would burp on choke and start on the next pull with choke off, but wouldn't idle. I backed out the L and it idles okay at 1 1/2 turns out. It dies if I try to give it any throttle. Then I need to choke/burp once and it will start and idle with choke off. Now I'm stuck.
I'm thinking maybe the metering lever needs adjustment ? Should I just throw the old lever back in there ? The old valve had a rubber tip. The new one is all metal. Should I throw the old valve in too ?

The metering lever on the WT is actually set below level with the carb body , to get it right you need the W ahaped setting tool from Walbro, the lever is actually around 1/64" below the carb body. Either needle will work as long as it is the same length as the original.
Pioneerguy600

 

[Rustynutz]

Just checked my lever gage WT is 1.6mm or 0.063" below,


I had the same problem recently stripped and set the carb about four times, still no go, turned out to be A points/condenser fault replaced that works wonderful now.

 

[pgg]

The hi jet affects the lo jet(lo circuit) as well, tweak the hi jet richer while leaving the lo jet as it is, see if it gets response from the trigger then. tweaking up the lever always makes both circuits run richer but having the lever at the standard height is the best setting usually

 

[Brian VT]

Just checked my lever gage WT is 1.6mm or 0.063" below,


I had the same problem recently stripped and set the carb about four times, still no go, turned out to be A points/condenser fault replaced that works wonderful now.

Thanks for the measurement. Not so much for the rest of your post. LOL

I'll go have a look with a straight edge. Maybe I'll put the old lever back in since I don't have to tool to set the new one.

 

[Hagstar]

I find one needs to either use the old working lever or (much better) install the new one and adjust it. I rarely find the new one is already correct as installed- it usually needs some tweaking. You'll want to use the new needle for sure.

With the McCulloch MiniMac the lever adjustment was below flush very slightly and absolutely critical to get it to run at all.

John H.

 

[Brian VT]

The hi jet affects the lo jet(lo circuit) as well, tweak the hi jet richer while leaving the lo jet as it is

I backed the H out to 1 1/4. No better.

 

[heimannm]

Adjusting the metering lever is no big deal, just try to avoid prying up on the lever and driving the needle into the seat. Hold both ends of the lever and bend them ever so slightly then recheck.

No throttle response would seem to indicate a fuel delivery problem, make sure that the fuel pump section is properly assembled, the metering diaphramg and gasket are in the right order, and that the fuel line and fuel filter are in good condition.

Mark

 

[Rustynutz]

I expect your metering is out, worth setting that right anyway, also the check the spring is seated correctly that affects it too.

and as for my other comment, well it's a real bummer when your convinced its one thing and turns out to be something completely different ...

 

[roncoinc]

I did a WT this afternoon..
strange thing was around the end of the lever in the carb floor was a raised portion..not much ,not flat like most i seen.
long story short it's apart agin and in the USC
walbro's are by far the easiest for me to get right..
once cleaned and blown out with carb cleaner i bet i have no problem
Setting lever is easy,small scredriver,hold needle down with finger and pry up..
the lever bends so easy it can come out of adustment on it's own from going up and down so many times..

 

[Rustynutz]

oh forgot to say

you don't need special tools, put your nail on one end and use a small screw driver to lift or lower the arm, no point in putting back the old one that will still need adjusting anyway there so finniky just touching them puts them out


hope that helps

 

[Rustynutz]

Hey Ron "SNAP" hehe

 

[Brian VT]

Thanks guys. I'm hesitant to mess with it without the tool/guage, but I guess I can take the carb. on and off for trials many times before I can acquire the tool.

Mark gave me a good reminder. I changed the fuel line but I was out of new filters. I think I'll get a new one on there before I take the carb. off again.

B.t.w., I like that these saws don't have an impulse line to worry about.

 

[Cantdog]

Just a thought, when you assembled the carb, isolation block and assoc. gaskets did you use any sealer?? Worked on a 262XP today that someone had put the "blue goo" to and completely sealed the impulse corridor. Also you don't have one of the gaskets swapped end for end do you? make sure you are getting impulse from the crankcase up through cyl and the impulse corridor to the carb. Again just thinkin.....

 

[pgg]

I backed the H out to 1 1/4. No better.

Ah 1/4 of a turn ain't much, I'd crank her out nice and rich 2 1/2 turns or so then go from there

 

[Brian VT]

...someone had put the "blue goo" to and completely sealed the impulse corridor.

No goo. Good thinking, though.
I should be able to feel the pulse by covering that hole with my finger and pulling the starter cord ?

 

[Brian VT]

Ah 1/4 of a turn ain't much, I'd crank her out nice and rich 2 1/2 turns or so then go from there

Really ? Couldn't hurt to try, I suppose.

 

[pioneerguy600]

No goo. Good thinking, though.
I should be able to feel the pulse by covering that hole with my finger and pulling the starter cord ?

You won`t feel the pulse needed to drive the diaphragm in the car, put a dab of hard grease or vaseline in/over the impulse hole, pull the saw over, if it moves you have impulse.
Pioneerguy600

 

[rmh3481]

Here is the WT service guide;
http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/servicemanuals/WTseries.pdf