MS361 very very hard to start

[AaronB]

Now that my MS660 issues might of been solved I now have issues with my MS361. It is very, very hard to start and I will tell what I have to do to actually get it started.

Remember once started it runs just fine, like it always did, cuts fine, no issues once actually running.

Steps:
Set to choke
push compression button in
pull on chord until I smell gas, it never "tries to fire" like it supposed to during this
next move to start position and pull the heck out of the chord, and then after 5-15 pulls of giving it your all it will actually start. This step works better if you leave the compression button out, I do not push it back in after it pops out.
Once started I can goose the throttle to kick the lever into the 'on' position and then it runs just fine.

Once started I just can't shut it off. lol, besides I am too tired to actually cut after doing all that pulling to start it.

What would be the first things to check/change.
Thanks for any help

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[Rockjock]

Now that my MS660 issues might of been solved I now have issues with my MS361. It is very, very hard to start and I will tell what I have to do to actually get it started.

Remember once started it runs just fine, like it always did, cuts fine, no issues once actually running.

Steps:
Set to choke
push compression button in
pull on chord until I smell gas, it never "tries to fire" like it supposed to during this
next move to start position and pull the heck out of the chord, and then after 5-15 pulls of giving it your all it will actually start. This step works better if you leave the compression button out, I do not push it back in after it pops out.
Once started I can goose the throttle to kick the lever into the 'on' position and then it runs just fine.

Once started I just can't shut it off. lol, besides I am too tired to actually cut after doing all that pulling to start it.

What would be the first things to check/change.
Thanks for any help

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Try this as an experiment.
Set to full choke
Press decomp button
Pull 3-4 time max
switch to fast idle
pull a few times
see if it fires.

My Ms361 is so predictable in its start up I can say 3 pulls from full choke to 2 pulls fast idle. Sounds like you need a carb kit.

 

[AaronB]

It used to start just as you are describing but this last week started becoming difficult. I'll look into a carb kit.

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[kr5258]

Carb kit. Diaphram stiffens, not opening the inlet needle as much as it used to.

 

[blsnelling]

The muffler on a 361 is extremely choked up and it's very easy to miss the pop when it's on choke. I wonder if you're flooding it. If not, you probably need a carb kit.

 

[HandLogger]

I have to agree with Brad here. If you don't hear that first "burp," your cutting goals can go south very quickly.

Our MS361s are all hard starters, but if you're not hearing that first pop -- here comes the flood.

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

I agree with all who suggested carb kit. It sounds like the 660 May also be in need.
Ethanol in fuel causes this..especially the lower grade. Don't trust fuel stabilizers as they're not all good.

 

[Wood Doctor]

What amazes me most about my MS 361 is that after it's warm, you can let it sit off for at least an hour and you can still start it again without a choke. If you do choke it, she will flood. It's about the only Stihl saw I have that behaves this way. The rest will usually need a choke after sitting for an hour, even in warm weather.

 

[rwoods]

Compared to my 036 Pro and MS362s, my WWS 361 is difficult to start. Nonetheless if the starting pattern has changed then likely something has changed with the saw.

Ron

 

[wood4heat]

This step works better if you leave the compression button out, I do not push it back in after it pops out.


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At what point does the comp button pop out? If this happens before you switch it to the start position you are definitely flooding it. The button shouldn't pop out until it tries to fire. Additionally I would bet that as you start to smell gas you have already flooded it. I would switch it to the start button as soon as the comp button pops out.

How old is the spark plug?

 

[Wood Doctor]

At what point does the comp button pop out? If this happens before you switch it to the start position you are definitely flooding it. The button shouldn't pop out until it tries to fire. Additionally I would bet that as you start to smell gas you have already flooded it. I would switch it to the start button as soon as the comp button pops out.

How old is the spark plug?

I used to use that pop out rule until I rebuilt my 046. Heck, it pops out the decomp on the first pull before it even begins to fire. Compression must be huge. With the ignition off, it will pop out the decomp valve. I rebuilt an 066 for a friend using a BBK, and it will do the same thing.

 

[lone wolf]

I dont ever use them comp releases really. Less compression = harder to fire.

 

[LowVolt]

At what point does the comp button pop out? If this happens before you switch it to the start position you are definitely flooding it. The button shouldn't pop out until it tries to fire. Additionally I would bet that as you start to smell gas you have already flooded it. I would switch it to the start button as soon as the comp button pops out.

How old is the spark plug?

Not a saw but I had a craftsman weedeater that became hard to start. A new properly gapped spark plug did the trick.

 

[AaronB]

At what point does the comp button pop out? If this happens before you switch it to the start position you are definitely flooding it. The button shouldn't pop out until it tries to fire. Additionally I would bet that as you start to smell gas you have already flooded it. I would switch it to the start button as soon as the comp button pops out.

How old is the spark plug?

Spark plug is probably 3 maybe 4 years old.

Button does pop out for a long time, I've pulled 10 times or so on choke and it didn't pop out but I just smelled the gas and moved it to the start position and when pulling really hard it will finally pop out. Occasionally it will pop out after a couple of pulls.

Just use to be way easier to start, I could hear the pop move to start and it would fire after a couple of pulls.

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[LowVolt]

Not saying it will fix your problem but start with a new plug.

 

[Shagbark]

My MS361 acted the same way until I replaced the spark plug.

 

[AaronB]

Well what do you know, I was just flooding it. Tonight, just to test, I put it on choke pulled one time only, sounded like a small trying to fire, put it in start position and pulled 3 times I think and it was started.

I'll just keep doing that for now until I see if it starts acting up again.

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[Wood Doctor]

Well what do you know, I was just flooding it. Tonight, just to test, I put it on choke pulled one time only, sounded like a small trying to fire, put it in start position and pulled 3 times or so and it started. I'll just keep doing that for now until I see if it starts acting up again.

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Sounds like a victory. Hooray! MS 361 Rocks!

 

[HandLogger]

Well what do you know, I was just flooding it. Tonight, just to test, I put it on choke pulled one time only, sounded like a small trying to fire, put it in start position and pulled 3 times I think and it was started.

I'll just keep doing that for now until I see if it starts acting up again.

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The starting scenario you've posted here is pretty much how every MS361 I've ever used starts -- you have to listen close for that first burp!

If you do end up flooding your saw, on the other hand, I've found that it's a very good idea to pull the plug, turn the saw upside down and pull on the cord until only dry air comes out of the plug hole. After that, let the saw dry out, replace the plug and repeat the starting sequence you just described.

Good luck to you...