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Ms362cm needles bearing issues
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SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Not practical.
I replaced the cage bearing on a 361 or 362 last week, don't remember perzactly.
But, I replace them all the time. More often on the clam shell saws because it's wimpier bearing.
Doesn't mean anything is wrong with the saw unless you just keep running it.
Had one moron ruin a MS500I by keeping running it with the drum wop sided.
Put some grease on the damn thing every now and then.
But, I replace them all the time. More often on the clam shell saws because it's wimpier bearing.
Doesn't mean anything is wrong with the saw unless you just keep running it.
Had one moron ruin a MS500I by keeping running it with the drum wop sided.
Put some grease on the damn thing every now and then.
I don't think Ibhave ever had one of these bearings go bad and I almost never grease them.
Some guys can break a anvil.
Some guys can break a anvil.
I'll send you a picture some time of some of the crap I see.
They upgraded the 034/036 clutch drum/bearings.
I had one grenade on an early 036, no crank damage, upgraded my other 036.
Remember the 038 bearings? Damm double ones never seen one fail.
I have to say I have never seen it damage the crankshaft. Mostly think that's ********.
What it does is eat up the line coming from the oil tank to the pump. Then the line or elbow from the pump to the output to the bar. Then the oil pump itself. And, eventually actually eat in to the crankcase in some way can't be fixed for the value of the saw.
What it does is eat up the line coming from the oil tank to the pump. Then the line or elbow from the pump to the output to the bar. Then the oil pump itself. And, eventually actually eat in to the crankcase in some way can't be fixed for the value of the saw.
I see a lot of this. Not sure what the question is.
Just did one for a gentleman this week. Replaced the input line, output line, oil pump, bearing, worm drive, and the clutch. All puked from the clutch bearing out.
And yes, they come in where they are actually irreparable from damage to the crankcase itself.
I suspect big boys running dull chains is part of it. That bearing turns any time the clutch RPM differ from the drums.
When everything in there is blue you get the idea.
Any idea how they are accomplishing this?
It takes a hellofa lot of heat to blue those parts. Id bet the concept of, ‘let the saw pull itself through the wood’ is lost to some of your costumers.
Once you start slipping the clutch things heat up quick, but in my 3 decades of running chainsaws I've never seen a saw get hot enough to blue the crank.lwt alone destroy the oiler, etc. I'm thinking people that do this sort of thing gave no business operating chainsaws.
To give you an idea I started selling cordwood using an old super XL when I was 12. Got my first Stihl a 028S. That Homie was better in bigger wood, didn't bog down, used it more on big stuff than the 028S. Then I got an 038M (free) and the Homie retired but still runs.
I got an 026 where clutch was full of crap, melted cover. No bluing on crank.
You've got to be certified idiot to blue the crank.....
Got to have heat to blue crank and melt cage. Heat is coming from the chain. Lack of lubrication or a dull chain causes heat.
I have seen a few melt. The cause was obvious from chain and bar condition. It may be a safety to have the bearing melt and lock up so you HAVE to change it. Better than crank damage.
No one thinks about sprocket replacement until it is so bad it won't drive the chain. Meanwhile the center of the sprocket is being worn due to lack of lubrication. When it starts to wobble it is toast.
I will continue to grease the sprocket bearing when a saw comes in the shop. Is is to much bother to put a 1 cent dollop of grease on the bearing?
I have seen a few melt. The cause was obvious from chain and bar condition. It may be a safety to have the bearing melt and lock up so you HAVE to change it. Better than crank damage.
No one thinks about sprocket replacement until it is so bad it won't drive the chain. Meanwhile the center of the sprocket is being worn due to lack of lubrication. When it starts to wobble it is toast.
I will continue to grease the sprocket bearing when a saw comes in the shop. Is is to much bother to put a 1 cent dollop of grease on the bearing?
I think ya'll need to consider that you are on a chainsaw forum. So, you like chainsaws or are at least interested in them.
There is whole industry of landscapers, graders, tree service contractors who have basically whoever they can find working for them.
To them a saw is no more than a shovel or post hole diggers.
Lot of these boys are strong as hell and they will run a saw until it just won't run. The one I did last week there is no telling how long it had been since the oiler even worked.
I don't recall seeing a blued crankshaft. Plenty of blue or black clutch drums.
Number one culprit in all is a dull chain.
There is whole industry of landscapers, graders, tree service contractors who have basically whoever they can find working for them.
To them a saw is no more than a shovel or post hole diggers.
Lot of these boys are strong as hell and they will run a saw until it just won't run. The one I did last week there is no telling how long it had been since the oiler even worked.
I don't recall seeing a blued crankshaft. Plenty of blue or black clutch drums.
Number one culprit in all is a dull chain.
I would bet the heat comes from the clutch slipping.. you know from guys dogging in repeatability with a dull chain until it stops.
As for the grease.. I'm not going to say I've never done it, but mostly when I change a sprocket. Never had a bearing fail or any other issue.
Grease one and then go cut a a few tanks. You will find the grease gone.
Well, the clutch drum bearing disintegrates. For whatever reason. Then the clutch drum starts turning at an angle and cuts in to the line from the tank usually first. Then in to the line or elbow to the oil output to the bar. Then in to the oiler itself. And, eventually on Stihl clamshell saws it will cut a slot in the oil tank so the saw is more or less ruined.
I really don't think it is heat any more than shearing force on the bearing just breaking the thing in to pieces.
I upgraded the clutch drum and bearing on my 034 Super. The difference in size between the two is night and day. That upgraded 034Super bearing is huge.
scruffy808
ArboristSite Lurker
As many say the clutch needle bearing only has movement with saw idling OR if clutch is slipping for some reason. When turning bar over not much more time to take clutch off clean it sll up and grease needle bearing. Use poly urea thickener high temp grease.
