My new Husqvarna 346 XP NE arrived. Now I have questions...............

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Guys, I went to buy the chain discussed above tonight at the local Husky shop. It sells "power tools" and chain saws are just one of their specialties so they didn't understand when I tried to buy the chain.

I was told all Husky bars are .050" and they don't know of the chain mentioned above.

Heck, I tried to buy locally but, I guess I'll just go on E bay and buy several and be done with it.

I did buy some Husqvarna bar oil, two stroke oil and a bar file kit.

Frosty

Then they don't know what they are doing
 
Yup, that's precisely why I bought my saw via the internet!

Now I'm cruising the Oregon website and it says that with a 20" bar (by the way it is a .050/1.3mm bar) and my 7 tooth sprocket that the microlite 95 chisel chain is the only one recommneded (unless I go to an 8 tooth sprocket, then all the others are recommended as well.

I was reading that the 20LP chain .050 vs. the .058 of the 21LP. They both sound much more desirable than the microlite.

How about a .325 20LP 78 pitch chain? Can the new saw pull this aggressive of a chain?

Frosty
 
it's the best of both worlds.the husky AV and the Stihl chain compliment each other.
So true If I had a good Stihl dealer I would probably bite the bullet and by some more Stihl chain!But as it stands I can get my chain from Bailey's without spending a arm and leg.But the best chain I have ever ran was Sandvick chain don't know if they make it anymore?
 
Now I'm cruising the Oregon website and it says that with a 20" bar (by the way it is a .050/1.3mm bar) and my 7 tooth sprocket that the microlite 95 chisel chain is the only one recommneded (unless I go to an 8 tooth sprocket, then all the others are recommended as well.

Since you have an NK bar, the only chain they can recommend is an NK chain. To have an non-NK chain you will need to change to a non-NK bar.

The second part though shows that there is something not right with their application. If you put an 8 tooth sprocket on your saw it will give you more chain speed but you will loose torque. Since you're already pushing the limits for your saw you simply don't have torque to trade away for speed.

I was reading that the 20LP chain .050 vs. the .058 of the 21LP. They both sound much more desirable than the microlite.

They are not two different chains, they are the same chain that happens to come in two different gauges. Neither fits the bar you have, since they are not NK and your bar is. While the 21LP really does not fit, the 20LP is just the wrong chain although it would happen to fit in the grove of your bar.

How about a .325 20LP 78 pitch chain? Can the new saw pull this aggressive of a chain?

Frosty

You seem eager to, so just buy it and try it then. The chain is fine, and since it's a full chiesel it cuts a little faster than the semi-chiesel, but my guess is you wont gain anything since it will give you slower chain speed from taking bigger bites of wood.
 
Guys, I went to buy the chain discussed above tonight at the local Husky shop. It sells "power tools" and chain saws are just one of their specialties so they didn't understand when I tried to buy the chain.

I was told all Husky bars are .050" and they don't know of the chain mentioned above.

Heck, I tried to buy locally but, I guess I'll just go on E bay and buy several and be done with it.

I did buy some Husqvarna bar oil, two stroke oil and a bar file kit.

Frosty


Hey Frostbite sorry to hear that your dealer is lame. fyi your bars will have the specs on it .050 etc stamped in twords the motor end. Be carefull of anyone talking you into 8 pin sprockets on a "20 on a 50cc saw! I believe you mean well but lets be sensible! Thats like taking a 4.10 out putting a 3.23 rear end in a car you lose torque and gain speed, not good on that setup. A 346 has plenty of chain speed as is believe me! JMHO good luck

edit: since you are shopping try Baileys and get a shorter bar setup you will be so much happier with the saw.

Kansas
 
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.325 x 7 is a reference to the stock spur sprocket. .325 is the chain pitch, and 7 is the number of teeth on the sprocket. Some of the guys are running an 8 tooth sprocket with shorter bars along with narrow kerf chain for the quickest cutting. With a 20" bar, I'm not sure that you want to go to 8 teeth as it will increase chain speed by 8/7ths, but also decrease torque, which will result in bogging.

I have never heard of 346xp with a spur sprocket - rims are cheap, so just try out both 7- and 8-pin, in your wood........:greenchainsaw:


I agree about the 20" bar though..........
 
Excellent! We have found something you guys seem to agree upon!

It sounds like .325 / .058 21 LP (H21) chains are what I will be buying as replacement chains for my new 346XP.

Is this an Oregon/Husqvarna chain? I don't see it listed in the Husqvarna accessory catalog.

Where is the best place to buy three?

I will also need new files, right?

And of course some XP professional performance Oil..............

Frosty

The 21LP is also sold as the Husky H21 - and takes the same files as the 95VP/H30.
 
Hello,

As others have said, you need a new b & c.
Here is my piece of advice:

1. Do not switch to 3/8 on a 50cc saw.
2. I would use 15-16 inch 0,325'.
3. Chain: 21LP if you do mostly frewood or bucking. 21BP if you do a lot of
limbing.

Following this, your saw will be a screamer. Congrats to the best 50cc saw on the market.

/Peter
Agree with most of you post, but for me BP is for dirty wood, and then Stihl RMC is much better, anyway...........:greenchainsaw:


I haven't tried 3/8" on the NE346xp yet......
 
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I must say I have never run into a forum where people are so passionate about their views. That's a compliment!

Ok, I requested a Bailey's catalog today and spoke to one of their salesmen on the phone today. You guys sure seem to know more than anyone I have talked to about chains or bars.

What if....................... I bought a 18" bar for my saw that will accomodate either 20 or 21 LP chains? Then will you guys get off my back? :cry:

I'm sure I am breaking some kind of rule but..........................................

A new 18" bar is only $15.95 (it was some brand that I believe started with an A? (Arbor, Anchor)? and the 20LP chain for the 18" bar is $15.84

If it fit, the 20" 78 link 20LP chain is $17.16 but as I understand it, it won't work on my saw because it's not an NK chain?

Guys, I just want the best cutting setup for my new saw.

My father in law and the other guys I cut with all swear by Stihl (and I don't have anything against Stihl) but I want them to stand back and say "I can't believe a 50cc saw can cut like that"! That's the chain setup I am looking for!

I'm not really looking for what I can't do (running a 20" bar on a 50cc saw). I just want to know how to maximize the capabilities of the saw I have.

Ok, let me have it!

Frosty
 
My father in law and the other guys I cut with all swear by Stihl (and I don't have anything against Stihl) but I want them to stand back and say "I can't believe a 50cc saw can cut like that"! That's the chain setup I am looking for!

You won't with a stock 50cc saw running a 20" bar, any brand. Put on a 16" 3/8" full comp RSC chain and let the chips fly.

btw, it's going to be hard impressing a Stihl guy;)
 
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