My new Husqvarna 346 XP NE arrived. Now I have questions...............

[2000ssm6]

Cause first you gotta get their heads outta their butts, then you gotta get their attention...

If our heads are in some butts then your mouth must be on a ...............

 

[Woodie]

If our heads are in some butts then your mouth must be on a ...............

...I dunno...bottle of beer?


.

 

[2000ssm6]

...I dunno...bottle of beer?


.

That's what you call it? sick.....

 

[Woodie]

That's what you call it? sick.....

Your momma just called...she said to tell you to put on your helmet and go play in the yard, 2K...

 

[stevethekiwi]

opcorn: opcorn: opcorn:

 

[Frostbite]

Now an 18" bar is too big too? I have to wonder, what kind of wood are you guys cutting? Ironwood?

I'm cutting softwoods (pine mostly) and so far it hasn't scared me with it's ablity to humble all but the most stout chainsaws.

I certainly don't know it all but, after my research didn't look like Stihl had a saw the competes directly with the 346XP. I looked at the MS260 (too cold) and the MS361 (too hot). One smaller and one larger but the 346XP was just right.

Frosty

 

[2000ssm6]

Your momma just called...she said to tell you to put on your helmet and go play in the yard, 2K...

You dirty ****** ******.

 

[2000ssm6]

Now an 18" bar is too big too? I have to wonder, what kind of wood are you guys cutting? Ironwood?

I'm cutting softwoods (pine mostly) and so far it hasn't scared me with it's ablity to humble all but the most stout chainsaws.

I certainly don't know it all but, after my research didn't look like Stihl had a saw the competes directly with the 346XP. I looked at the MS260 (too cold) and the MS361 (too hot). One smaller and one larger but the 346XP was just right.

Frosty

The 260 is the comparable Stihl but not as fast as the 346, the 260 is built better but not faster. All in what you like and need.

Port the muffler on your 346 and 18" softwood should be fine. IF you want the "wow" factor try a sharp 16".

 

[Frostbite]

Is there a link on how to do the muffler mod? I'm very interested!

I would like to do it on my old Rancher 61 as well and put some spring back in her step.

This 20" bar thing has me feeling like you guys think I'm trying to put a 162" x 2 1/2" track on a 500cc fan cooled snowmobile.

All I want to know is; what bar to buy (18" I can do but 16" is just too darn short for my application). And what chain to go with it.

Thanks

Frosty

 

[WACutter]

Now an 18" bar is too big too? I have to wonder, what kind of wood are you guys cutting? Ironwood?

I'm cutting softwoods (pine mostly) and so far it hasn't scared me with it's ablity to humble all but the most stout chainsaws.

I certainly don't know it all but, after my research didn't look like Stihl had a saw the competes directly with the 346XP. I looked at the MS260 (too cold) and the MS361 (too hot). One smaller and one larger but the 346XP was just right.

Frosty

For what and where you'll be cutting, an 18" bar will be perfect. I have a 16" on my OE 346, and it cuts like a champ. I have an 18" with 3/8" chain on a 260, and that cuts great too. Since the 346 NE reportedly has a fair bit more oomph than the 260, it seems to follow that it should cut with more authority with the 18". Keep the chain sharp, like maybe after every tank of gas quickly touch it up.

Some folks get hung up on bar length. Your 346 NE will work great with a 16 to 20" bar. 18" puts you right in the middle. It'll rip......

 

[peter399]

Cause first you gotta get their heads outta their butts, then you gotta get their attention...

It's always difficult to get the attention of the Volkswagen guys. They are so busy cleaning air filters that they usually don't listen.

 

[peter399]

Agree with most of you post, but for me BP is for dirty wood, and then Stihl RMC is much better, anyway...........:greenchainsaw: I haven't tried 3/8" on the NE346xp yet......

Well, personally I think the semi-chisel is smoother to run when limbing. The full chisel can take a quite agressive bite into the limb and is more harsh when sweeping the bar along the log. The BP and the RMC I find to be quite equivalent. One is a bit better out of the box (forgot which one) but after the first sharpening it really is up to how you sharp it. No doubt, the LP is faster when bucking.

 

[maccall]

I must say I have never run into a forum where people are so passionate about their views. That's a compliment!

Ok, I requested a Bailey's catalog today and spoke to one of their salesmen on the phone today. You guys sure seem to know more than anyone I have talked to about chains or bars.

What if....................... I bought a 18" bar for my saw that will accomodate either 20 or 21 LP chains? Then will you guys get off my back?

I'm sure I am breaking some kind of rule but..........................................

A new 18" bar is only $15.95 (it was some brand that I believe started with an A? (Arbor, Anchor)? and the 20LP chain for the 18" bar is $15.84

If it fit, the 20" 78 link 20LP chain is $17.16 but as I understand it, it won't work on my saw because it's not an NK chain?

Guys, I just want the best cutting setup for my new saw.

My father in law and the other guys I cut with all swear by Stihl (and I don't have anything against Stihl) but I want them to stand back and say "I can't believe a 50cc saw can cut like that"! That's the chain setup I am looking for!

I'm not really looking for what I can't do (running a 20" bar on a 50cc saw). I just want to know how to maximize the capabilities of the saw I have.

Ok, let me have it!

Frosty

There's just so many variables to take into consideration, and while they are many they are also of different weight. It's just damn hard to find the right ones to take into consideration, especially when we're doing this kind of dry-land-swimming on a web forum instead of being out in the woods and trying the theories out. Some variables are: What saw (how powerful is it, is it "fast" power or "torque" power?), what chain (size, type, brand), how long is the bar (and how much of it is actually being used in the cut?), what are your cutting style (feather light hands, or asking a friend to help leaning on the saw), what wood (soft, hard, dry, green...), what altitude, what weather, and on, and on, and... It's just a matter of where you should put a reasonable limit on things to consider and just get out and cut wood... It also seems that the more time we spend here, the harder it is to find that line...

So, you want your saw to amaze your cutting buddies? OK, the new edition 346XP is a great first step, the equivalent Stihl is the 260, and while it's a good saw, it won't out cut a 346. Now, your saw is speed racer, a Suzuki GSXR 1000, not a Harley, if that analogy works for you. It's claim to fame is acceleration and high revving, which gives high chain speed, it's not a torque-monster thats happy doing stump grinding and other hard and slow work. Your choice of chain and bar should simply help the saw to do that fast&high-thingy! So what helps a saw to maintain high revs? Well, a good sharp chain, preferably of chisel type, that does not take such a big bite out of the wood that it slows the saw down too much, and in a length that is not overwhelming for the saw.

* The 20LP you've been looking at is a .325 pitch chisel tooth, and a good one they say. But it's a standard kerf chain, so it takes a fairly large bite in the wood. That's one pro and one con...

* The 95VP is a .325 Narrow Kerf semi chisel chain, it takes a smaller bite of the wood, thus creating less resistance, and this helps the saw maintain high revvs. But it's not a chisel chain. That's one pro and one con...

* A 3/8 chisel chain, say the Oregon 72LGX, cuts larger chunks of wood, and is a chisel, but as it takes even bigger bites of wood than the 20LP it might be a bit too much. On the other hand it has less cutters in the wood than a .325 chain, that means less resistance. But which is best? That's where you have to consider the other variables as well...



All advices you get here are simplifications, with different variables given different weights depending on the personal experience and preference of the person giving advice, and this is just mine:

If you need a 20" bar, you should really stay with the H30/95VP on a 7-tooth drive sprocket. It's a good chain that will give good performance, and in my opinion you do not have a real choice here. YMMV.

If you want to try the 20LP chain, you should get a shorter bar, and if you do get say as short a bar as 16", you might be able try with an 8-tooth drive sprocket, that will increase the chain speed and since the bar is shorter it might work well. But 8-tooth sprockets is not the way to go if your cutting style is heavy leaning on the saw...

I have no experience with 3/8 on such a small saw, but to me it does not sound appealing for any other reason than if all my other saws used 3/8, then they could share the same files.

Now an 18" bar is too big too? I have to wonder, what kind of wood are you guys cutting? Ironwood?

I'm cutting softwoods (pine mostly) and so far it hasn't scared me with it's ablity to humble all but the most stout chainsaws.

I certainly don't know it all but, after my research didn't look like Stihl had a saw the competes directly with the 346XP. I looked at the MS260 (too cold) and the MS361 (too hot). One smaller and one larger but the 346XP was just right.

Frosty

You got it right about the saws you mention. The 260 is the direct competitor, but only the best choice if you are a die-hard, all Stihl guy, or if your Stihl dealer is far superior to your Husky dealer. The 361 is not a good comparison, since it's in different size of saws (the equivalent Husky being the 357XP). It's however a great saw, and if the 20" bar was what you absolutely needed, it might have been a better choice for you. It would have had no problem with any of the bar&chain combinations we have discussed, in fact a 20" bar with 3/8 chisel chain, and in softwood maybe even with a 8-pin drive sprocket, it would have been right at home. This is not only because it is a larger displacement saw, but also since it was designed with a different usage (temperament if you want), than the 346, in mind. By good design it just happens too be a great all-round saw that does speedy limbing great as well!

The saw you bought was originally designed to primarily be a speedy limbing saw, where the limbing meant was softwood limbs in perhaps 2"-6" diameter. In Sweden this is usually done with a 13" bar and .325 semi-chisel chain, and professional cutters here would not be happy if they had to use longer bars on a saw like this. They are really fast at what they do with this set up though... This is part of why long bars, and chains requiring torque saws, is met with some hesitation for your saw.

But you're the judge, it's your saw, your wood and your performance. Buy what you like, try it out and report back if you think we need to get updated, and otherwise as well, a good report is always more than welcomed here. Also, your opinion will help the next guy out the next time.

Cheers!

 

[Ole Farmerbuck]

Now an 18" bar is too big too? I have to wonder, what kind of wood are you guys cutting? Ironwood?

I'm cutting softwoods (pine mostly) and so far it hasn't scared me with it's ablity to humble all but the most stout chainsaws.

I certainly don't know it all but, after my research didn't look like Stihl had a saw the competes directly with the 346XP. I looked at the MS260 (too cold) and the MS361 (too hot). One smaller and one larger but the 346XP was just right.

Frosty

I have a Dolmar 5100 and a NE346xp. Both run 3/8 with Dolmar 18" bars. The 346 has a 1/2 or 5/8 pipe on the muff and the Dolmar doesnt. So....the 346 outcuts the 5100. get that 346 breathing good and you WILL impress the Stihl guys!

 

[Frostbite]

WOW! Now this are the type of guidance I was looking for!

Thanks guys

Frosty

 

[Kansas]

I want them to stand back and say "I can't believe a 50cc saw can cut like that"! That's the chain setup I am looking for!


Frosty

Thats the spirit FrostBite go get em! LOL Your 346 with a few hours on it will just flat scream it will get better and better they will be plenty impressed dont worry! They idle just like a 372 sounds like a 125 dirt bike I love that about them!

edit:thought I would add for your consideration what my setup is-16" Husky bar with 95vp .325 chain and thats it just the way it came. I believe it works OK and when sharp it cuts very fast but dulls quick and I find myself leaning,but I am a leaner anyway I like working a saw, and this chain is not ideal for that imo. After the 3 chains I got are worn out I will find something different. HTH

Kansas

 

[Lurch2]

Actually, the color is magenta.

........

........

Seems the only ones to correctly identify Magenta are printers and "swishy" fellows. Which side do you fall on?









I'm a printer by the way.

 

[Kansas]

Found this hot little number here, bet that would impress them FrostBite!


www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=69624

Kansas

 

[Urbicide]

Seems the only ones to correctly identify Magenta are printers and "swishy" fellows. Which side do you fall on?









I'm a printer by the way.

I just read the name of the color than comes up when you click on any one of the colors on the selection chart.
I'll bet that you can properly identify all of the colors contained in a box of Kellogg's "Fruit Loops".

 

[SawTroll]

Well, personally I think the semi-chisel is smoother to run when limbing. The full chisel can take a quite agressive bite into the limb and is more harsh when sweeping the bar along the log. The BP and the RMC I find to be quite equivalent. One is a bit better out of the box (forgot which one) but after the first sharpening it really is up to how you sharp it. No doubt, the LP is faster when bucking.

I see your point, but I don't agree (about the limbing).......:greenchainsaw: