My Splitter Build (heavy on photos)

[hseII]

Nice Fab Work. I really like the Gussets along the Beam.

I've got a few Questions:

1) What kind of shielding/guard ideas will you incorporate to protect that pump?
Hopefully nothing will ever get that high but now would be the time to address that.
2) Why not mount your valve in the horizontal on a stub up of the material you built the frame out of with a piece of plate on top as the base?
3)will you only be splitting smaller wood,(< 12")?
I don't mean to sound smart, but it would look to be a chore to load larger wood onto you splitter.

I'm sure you've put countless hours in the design of this splitter, and it does look good thus far.

We're going to build a new splitter soon and are discussing which direction we will be going. We are considering building a diesel powered horizontal with a loading gate for the big sections, as we already have a 3 point hitch horizontal unit that Dad and my uncle put together one winter at the fab shop 20+ years ago.

We saved a 10" H beam from some job done in the past and granddad had the local hydraulic shop fab is a cylinder just for the upcoming splitter.( He had this done probably 5-6 years ago, we just haven't got around to putting it together) My 78 yr old grandfather told me the other day that if he could hire, 3 welders for about 3 days, we'd have us our new splitter.

He's a Card

 

[jthornton]

Nice Fab Work. I really like the Gussets along the Beam.

I've got a few Questions:

1) What kind of shielding/guard ideas will you incorporate to protect that pump?
Hopefully nothing will ever get that high but now would be the time to address that.
2) Why not mount your valve in the horizontal on a stub up of the material you built the frame out of with a piece of plate on top as the base?
3)will you only be splitting smaller wood,(< 12")?
I don't mean to sound smart, but it would look to be a chore to load larger wood onto you splitter.

I'm sure you've put countless hours in the design of this splitter, and it does look good thus far.

We're going to build a new splitter soon and are discussing which direction we will be going. We are considering building a diesel powered horizontal with a loading gate for the big sections, as we already have a 3 point hitch horizontal unit that Dad and my uncle put together one winter at the fab shop 20+ years ago.

We saved a 10" H beam from some job done in the past and granddad had the local hydraulic shop fab is a cylinder just for the upcoming splitter.( He had this done probably 5-6 years ago, we just haven't got around to putting it together) My 78 yr old grandfather told me the other day that if he could hire, 3 welders for about 3 days, we'd have us our new splitter.

He's a Card

I'll fabricate some tubing to go in front, but I need to wait till I know for sure where the suction line runs.

This is the latest position for the valve and I think I'll lower it and put a straight handle on it. Just gotta make sure it clears the motor...

By smaller wood I assume 12" in diameter, no I'll split what ever I can find, I just finished splitting a 48" diameter red oak with my X27 (except for a few pieces I had to noodle) and wedges to quarter the rounds that gave me 3 cords of wood. I plan on having a lift to get larger rounds up to the splitting table and wings on each side to hold the splits for re-splitting.

After running a horizontal some I don't like leaning over the splitter, I hope being able to stand straight up will be more comfortable as I approach your grandfathers age. I also don't like chasing the splits to re-split them.

JT

 

[gulity1]

Those look like NPT ports , Are they threaded right to the top of the post or is there a chamfer or edge break for an Oring to seat on it? When you pull the plugs out are they sealed with anything tape dope and oring ? I they are NPT I can make hoses with npt fittings crimped on them and save you a fitting on thte valve and a hose fitting I just need to know what you want on the other end JIC NPT or Seal loc ( oring on the seal face) what ever you wnat or need let me know I will try to help if I can

 

[jthornton]

The fittings on the cylinder have an o-ring and are not any NPT size. I'll have to look at my paper work to see what they are. I'm thinking on the cylinder if I can get long 90's that would make the hose routes much cleaner and free of tight bends. Both the pressure and return hose need to bend near the rear pin as the beam pivots into the towing position. I'll check the valve today to see if they are NPT. Do you have a link to that 90° suction ball valve? I'd like to see that.

JT

 

[jthornton]

I did some checking this morning and my cylinder is a Lion with 3/4-16 ORB ports. What is the common type of female end on a hydraulic hose a 37° JIC? The rest of the fittings are NPT.

Edit: The pump pressure outlet is 1/2" NPT the valve is 3/4" NPT, would you reduce at the valve to 1/2" hose?

JT

 

[triptester]

From the valve to the cylinder you should be able to run straight fittings or 45 degree fittings at the most. Here are some pics for the supply and return they can be angled back to the column.

 

[jthornton]

The second photo is what I had in my mind this morning. Does the return line have to be high pressure or can it be something else?

I have to rework my mount a bit to make room for the pressure hose to come up from the bottom...

Thanks
JT

 

[triptester]

The 1/2" NPT and 3/4"-16 ORB ( 08- ORB )are similar but not interchangable will both use 1/2" hose. Here is a link to hydraulic fittings. The return hose does not need to be high pressure but hydraulic fluid compatible.
http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/thread_guide.pdf

 

[jthornton]

Triptester, thanks for the photo of the fittings.

This is the final rendition of the valve support... I hope.

Edit: well it works fine if I move the engine back 2"... so back it goes. This is finally coming together.

Thanks
JT

 

[triptester]

You could move the control valve forward toward where you will be standing. Less reach and bring the valve and cylinder ports more in line.
For your hydraulic hoses if you use NPT hose ends with the tapered seats that match the swivel fittings, you will find them readily available at most farm supply stores.

 

[ETpilot]

Here is a picture I found of a tank with a baffle. The pipe in back is the return. The fluid would be returned to the return side just above the bottom then flow over the baffle to the suction side. By flowing a long distance it would have time to cool. Looks like this was a full weld around the baffle. I have read that you should have some small cut outs in the corner so the fluid can maintain an even level.

I had some good info on reservoirs but it was on my laptop and it crashed. I am going to try to recover data from the hard drive. I am working with an iPad for now. I hope the picture comes out right side up. Last picture I posted it was up side down. Not sure if that is how it opens for the members.

 

[woodcuter ms361]

I used a sq hyd tank with no baffell ,never had a problem or had hyd oil to get hot,18hp -11gpm,want to put 23gpm on it someday,like your build!

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[fastLeo151]

Op

That wedge looks wicked

 

[woodcuter ms361]

since then I have built log lift

 

[woodcuter ms361]

ops

 

[jthornton]

Here is a picture I found of a tank with a baffle. The pipe in back is the return. The fluid would be returned to the return side just above the bottom then flow over the baffle to the suction side. By flowing a long distance it would have time to cool. Looks like this was a full weld around the baffle. I have read that you should have some small cut outs in the corner so the fluid can maintain an even level.

I had some good info on reservoirs but it was on my laptop and it crashed. I am going to try to recover data from the hard drive. I am working with an iPad for now. I hope the picture comes out right side up. Last picture I posted it was up side down. Not sure if that is how it opens for the members.

That's what I was thinking the baffle needed some corner cutouts to keep the fluid level. I'm also thinking of a maze looking baffle where the return comes in and has to go around the first baffle then around the second one then the suction is behind the third one.

JT

 

[jthornton]

I used a sq hyd tank with no baffell ,never had a problem or had hyd oil to get hot,18hp -11gpm,want to put 23gpm on it someday,like your build!

Thanks, I see you used an axle like mine possibly from a Dodge K car? While the tank does not have a lid it is easy to put a baffle in... I like your log lift. I plan on having a lift to pick up big rounds using log tongs hanging on a chain.

JT

 

[jthornton]

Op

That wedge looks wicked

I hope it works as good as it looks!

JT

 

[ETpilot]

That's what I was thinking the baffle needed some corner cutouts to keep the fluid level. I'm also thinking of a maze looking baffle where the return comes in and has to go around the first baffle then around the second one then the suction is behind the third one.

JT

Here is what is said about the baffle:

Permits foreign substance to settle to bottom, allows entrained air to escape from fluid, prevents localized turbulence, promotes heat dissipation from reservoir walls and it should have an access cover for cleaning.

Your design covers it all. I think it should work very good.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

When I was building mine, the guy who sold me the parts and builds them for a living said it is best to use a dispersion tube that is capped off on the end. You can see here what it looks like.

He said this is the best way to insure no swirling of the fluid. I have a single baffle in mine with the dispersion tube on one side and the feed to the pump on the other.