New Chain Sharpener

[radioFlash]

Here are my impressions so far:

I'm a homeowner with about 5 acres. I've got a Stihl MS251 with an 18" bar that I've used to remove a few trees and flush cut some stumps. I tried the Grandberg guide, but found it to be a bit fiddly to setup and the quality of the casting looked terrible--it might function fine, but I only tried it a couple of times before I gave up on it.

The Timberline is certainly more expensive, but it seems to be working well for me. I've used it about a dozen times so far.

Cost: It's pricey compared to most other sharpening options other than a bench grinder, but beats taking a trip to a dealer and paying $15 per sharpening.

Effectiveness: It gets the chains as sharp or sharper than new when used properly.

Ease of use: The most difficult thing is getting it mounted on the bar correctly. It still takes me a few minutes to get it set so it's balanced and doesn't catch on the chain. The first time I used it I chewed up the carbide cutter. It may have been because I didn't mount it properly, the chain was in bad shape, or there was some sand/dirt on the chain. Once mounted on the bar, it's easy enough to set the thumbscrew and start sharpening. I'm still slow at it, so people who are pros at hand sharpening will not be impressed with my speed.

Build quality: The machining and finish seem very good. The carbide cutters are fragile and won't survive abuse, so you need to proceed carefully. I'm concerned that the pawl and carbide guides are aluminum which might wear over time as they're rubbing against a much harder material (the chain and carbide). Fortunately, Timeberline sells replacements for these items (as long as they're still in business!). The pouch is just big enough to hold the sharpener, but it would be a better if it were just a little larger to hold some extra handles and cutters.

I just got a new chainsaw (562XP), but have yet to use the Timberline on its chains yet.

 

[MGoBlue]

Effectiveness: It gets the chains as sharp or sharper than new when used properly.

Not only that(which I can achieve w/ hand filing), it's best feature IMO is that it gets all cutters the exact same length and perfectly angled. Nice post btw.

 

[radioFlash]

I sharpen all the cutters on one side and switch over to the other side. To ensure that the left and right cutters are the same length, do I need to make sure I don't adjust the thumbscrew when switching sides? I've found that sometimes when I switch over to the other side, it's too tight fitting, so I dial the thumbscrew out a bit. If that's not the right thing to do, then what's the best strategy?

 

[row.man]

My only issue with the timberline is the case. To fit the carbide bit so it isn't in danger of being broken with a random hit, you must remove the bit from the handle
I think a roll up, tool wrap would be better, especially one that had a pocket or two extra to fit the raker gage and flat file. In canvas or heavy nylon fire hose type material.

 

[Hinerman]

Not only that(which I can achieve w/ hand filing), it's best feature IMO is that it gets all cutters the exact same length and perfectly angled. Nice post btw.

How long do the carbide files/cutters last? They are pricey and regular round files are pretty cheap...

 

[MGoBlue]

Well, I've only messed one up so far due to lack of experience. I'd have to look into my emails to find out when I bought it, been a while though. The point is that yes, round files are cheap but I guarantee, your cutters aren't perfectly angled and all the exact same length. I've stated that I hand file 2-3 times, then true up with the jig. Keeps my chains cutting perfectly straight.

 

[CR888]

l have over a hundred chains in service at any given time, rarely do l find one with all the cutters at the same length unless off the roll. l could make them all the same length but for work chains you half there cutting life/filing life making all cutters match the shortest one. lts not neccessary for a well functioning work chain IME.

 

[beaglebriar]

I know a few guys that use the Timberline. They say it will make a chain razor sharp but the whole thing seems tedious to me. I tend to square off a tooth way less than 30°. I'm sure they help a guy that can't or doesn't want to file but you still have to file the rakers. I'm sure they have their place but I'll stick with a good file.

 

[MGoBlue]

l have over a hundred chains in service at any given time.

In a production environment, I'd totally agree. and have a grinder.

 

[heyduke]

How long do the carbide files/cutters last? They are pricey and regular round files are pretty cheap...

a dull file is just as bad as a dull chain and, in reality, files don't last very long. you probably wouldn't notice if you're only using your chain for a few firewood runs every year but if you use a saw regularly, you go through a lot of files. i've been using the same cutter for more than a year. it isn't as sharp as new but it still does the job. in the same period i would have gone thru at least a dozen files. files are $5, carbide cutters $20. do the math.

regarding cr888's "fleet" maintenance of a hundred chains, a timberline is not for you. i used to do 20 saws every sunday night and used a stihl grinder. i would have been there until wednesday with a timberline. i sometimes doubt that sharpening chains is cost effective for a medium or large operation. it might be cheaper to make a new chain.

a good grinder is still almost necessary if you use a timberline. repairing damage could take an hour with a timberline, with an oregon grinder, ten minutes, however if you want that special edge, you still have to true it up with a timberline.

regarding beaglebear's complaints of "tedium," getting a chain really sharp is not an exciting job. and even though nearly everyone on this site thinks he can sharpen a chain with a file, i doubt that one in a thousand actually has the skill to do it correctly.

 

[MGoBlue]

getting a chain really sharp is not an exciting job.

Speak for yourself.
I recently had one of your "one in a thousand" show me how to square file. I thoroughly enjoy being in the shop with a good tune on the radio and a file in me hands. The fruits of my labor are soooo worth it.

 

[heyduke]

Speak for yourself.
I recently had one of your "one in a thousand" show me how to square file. I thoroughly enjoy being in the shop with a good tune on the radio and a file in me hands. The fruits of my labor are soooo worth it.

good point mgblue, glad you found a rare friend who can wield a file. square ground chain lends itself to hand filing because it has a straight line in the corner of the cutter. it's easier to keep the file properly aligned. you still need the manual dexterity to keep things true and maintain correct angles. the more common round ground chain is another matter. timberlines don't sharpen square-filed chain. i maintain chains for many of the hombres in my village. they all consider themselves to be capable filers, but when they bring their chains to me i always see a disaster. the angles are wrong. damage has not been removed. depth gauges are wrong. cutter length is all over the map. they don't cut for s***. if you need a humbling experience. borrow a timberline and use it to sharpen one of your old hand-filed chains. then take it outside and put it into a log.

like you, i often relax after a long day restoring the edges on the chains i have used, musica ranchera on the radio, a cerveza on the bench and my timberline on a bar. the fruits of my labor are fast cutting saws throwing fat chips against my jeans.

 

[amberg]

got the order placed today with timberline for the extra bits and also the 25 and 35 degree inserts. he did tell me that if I try the 25 degree insert
that I might not want to change it back to 30. when it gets here we will see!

 

[SierraWoodsman]

Does the 25° cut faster?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MGoBlue]

just an fyi
Timberline Chainsaw Sharpeners???

 

[dall]

we use carbide burr cutters on die grinders at work and with all burrs you have to watch the pressure and angle you are trying to cut with you could probably use a drill on the timberline cutters to make it cut faster but you ruin more of a risk messing the burr up .i just got mine saturday and so far i like it . might be a little better if the burrs was more of a point meaning longer so can start removing material on a really damaged chain before you get to the sharpening edge

 

[MGoBlue]

Learn from my mistake. Rocked chain = 1 swipe with a round file.
I think putting a cutter in a drill would wear out the guides quicker. My 30's are about toast. Anyone wanna make these and the pawls out of a stronger material??

 

[dall]

my chain stops are split where can flip the one side up so doesnt get destroyed must be a new design

 

[MGoBlue]

Not from carbides touching, just from backing the chain into it. After a year plus, you'll see.

 

[Philbert]

On sale in the current Bailey's circular. $99 without the cutters. Not sure if that is much of a deal or not.

Philbert