New csm build for my 49” bar

[motolife313]

havent really done anything yet. I was hoping bob could show his off little close since I’m thinking about bolting this one to the bar instead of clamping to the bar. So if u could do that bob I’d appreciate it, had the bar rebuild for 70$ it’s 3/8 .063 and my 43” bar is .050 so that kinda sucks

 

[Rob Stafari]

Sucks the bars run different chain, but .063 is better for milling. If it bothers you that much you could always have the .050 bar modified to run the same chain.

Bolting to the bar is definitely the way to go. Have that clamp come loose and chew into the bolts with a 153 DL chain once, and that will be the end of that. My bar is double ended, so drilling was 'easier' beyond the hardness of the bar. I've read that not all bar sprockets can be drilled through the center for mounting, which is ideal for maximizing width of cut. Do not know more beyond that. Drilling tips include... that bar is hard. Even my good cobalt machinists bits didn't want to go through it. Only thing readily available on the weekend was bosch carbide tipped hammer drill bits(used in regular drill press, no hammer) Worked well, but but was destroyed coming through back side. So if you use them, plan on at least one per hole. I gave up about half way through one hole with machinists bits and sharpening countless times. Full on carbide drill bit would be ideal, but they are expensive and easy to break. Not to mention I can't run to the hardware store near me on a Sunday and buy them. Drilled the bar, then drilled and tapped mill clamp plate for the 5/16 bolts I had on hand...

 

[BobL]

My bigger mills bolt the mill to the bar bolts on the power head which maximises the bar length and minimises mill/saw flex.

880 with the BIL (Al) Mill


076 with the BIL (Al) Mill



880 with the steel mill. Note offset position and slight angle of mount, this is so the chain brake handle clears the mill uprights



On my small Alaskan with teh 441 and 25" bar I bolt thru the bar.
I leave the dogs on because I often use this saw for non-milling work.

 

[motolife313]

Thanks bob! What do you think about me making one that clamps on the bar like My mill I’m using?but bigger and I’m going to copy the granberg clamping system this time.or can the power head bend the bar from being to heavy with out me supporting it?

 

[BobL]

Can you post a photo or your mill or point me to a picture of what you mean?

 

[motolife313]

My mill is clamped to the bar like grangberg. Is that ok with bigger mills. Here’s the mill for my 064 and 32” bar. This clamping system looks ok for big 49” bar? I guess it ain’t that much bigger of a bar lol. This one is 1”. I’d go 1.250 on the new mill

 

[BobL]

OK sorry - I worked out what you meant just after I posted.
If it works for a 32 it should be OK for 49" bar.

 

[motolife313]

Thanks bob! Will the bar wanna bend with the weight of my 075 if I don’t bolted to the saw like yours?

 

[Ancient One]

Hmm. Valve spring tester, ring squeezers, cam bushing drivers, head cc'ing burette, seat grinder pilots, ring end gapping tools, decking indicators, and more, you really are into a lot of gear head stuff!! Nice collection of tooling.

Don't omit the hard nose bars: Just put on a helper handle with the roller and drill the bar end to your fashion for bolting to the mill uprights. Takes a little more chain but will give a sturdy setup. With your welding skills and machinery making a nice roller type helper handle will be a piece of cake. I have the Granberg helper but will be making one for a shorter bar.

 

[motolife313]

That’s my friends shop, I’m just very lucky to use it.

You mean a roller setup like bobs on his small mill? ya I like the idea of bolting to the bar

 

[Ancient One]

Yea, similar to Bob's. I will send a photo.


Gee, nice friend!! And I see aluminum heads on the floor. Performance building. Horsepower!!!

I played with drag racing in the 60's and 70's when things were in a primitive stage. Tip the Nitro Can, Gasoline is for washing parts!! Said my friend, owner of the Melrose Missile. 1964 Plymouth AF/X funny car, he still has it, we have been restoring it. I have some photos somewhere, will post later. Hemi's ruled back then. Car is insured for $240,000.

 

[Ancient One]

I plan on removing the adjustment feature in the below photo, it just takes up space. Don't need adjustment on both ends of the bar! If you make one, use a bigger bearing, I have heard complaints of bearing failure. The top cover in the below photo is removable for changing the chain.

 

[motolife313]

I’m not sure what bearing your talking about. I like the oil drain plug. How is that held in place?

 

[BobL]

Thanks bob! Will the bar wanna bend with the weight of my 075 if I don’t bolted to the saw like yours?

If anything your bar should sag less because the weight of the saw will tend to counteract the bar sag.

Bolting the bar to the "bar bolts" makes a whole mill/saw more rigid which helps with finish.

I made a helper handle for my small mill when it use conventional clamps but I' never used it - I dont like anyone around the mill while I'm milling.

 

[motolife313]

Seems my mill works ok on it. This has a full comp square chain on it. It’s a rough slab. Maybe I was pulling to hard. Man this saw has torque. Felt like I was at 1/4 throttle lol. I may be good with this one actually. I’m just going to add steel spacers under the clamps to add clearance like bobs mill. I made some skates for under the aluminum plate out of delrin it’s about 5” wider on each side. Ran out of gas on me tho , fuel filter wasn’t in the fuel. What do u guys do about the filter?

 

[Ancient One]

I’m not sure what bearing your talking about. I like the oil drain plug. How is that held in place?

Bearing inside the roller, you can see the snap ring holding it in place in the photo. The brass screw with the hole is for the oil injection hose. I think the bearing is too small, when I rebuild the Mill I will bore out the roller and install a larger bearing. It is just a standard shielded bearing

 

[BobL]

I would add a fuel filter otherwise if you carby get partially blocked it could run lean and could cook the saw.

While we're at it
I see you are getting an uneven finish - his could be due to the base plate not being wide enough so that the mill is able to tilt over slightly from time to time.
A wider base plate would make it easier to stop and start the cuts.
More handles would make the mill easier/safer pick up and operate
This will be even more significant when you go to a longer bar .
I put a handle on the front one the mill specifically for lifting/carrying. To cary the mill up onto a big long ,y right hand holds onto this handle and the left holds onto the saw's wrap handle with my left and I rest the rear side against my upper thighs - because the mill base is wide the chain is some distance from my legs.

All those handles turn out to make it much easier and more comfortable to operate on long cuts. Just being able to swap handles and hand positions every now and then reduces shoulder/arm muscle soreness/stiffness/fatigue. Because I am unfit, lazy and want to be able to sleep I place a premium on operator comfort. It's also a safety issue and if there is one thing that needs to be avoided while milling its fatigue because that's when mistakes are more likely.

A remote lockable throttle means instead of bending over the mill/saw with my arms apart I'm standing mostly upright with my arms free.
I usually lean on the saw wrap handle with a knee or thigh and one hand on one of the handles to hep keep the RHS perpendicular in the cut.
This means I have one hand free to add wedges so I rarely stop the mill when making a cut - this also improves the finish

 

[Ancient One]

If anything your bar should sag less because the weight of the saw will tend to counteract the bar sag.

Bolting the bar to the "bar bolts" makes a whole mill/saw more rigid which helps with finish.

I made a helper handle for my small mill when it use conventional clamps but I' never used it - I dont like anyone around the mill while I'm milling.
View attachment 729065

Same here, I do not like spectators. Cannot keep eyes on them and eyes on the work at the same time. First thing you know they walk up close and grab something or try to help. And get in the way.

 

[motolife313]

It’s got a filter but wasn’t submerged in the fuel 3/4 of the way throughout the cut. I’m getting a winch soon and I use the upright as a handle but another would be nice. I’ll get a pic of the delrin that will widen my base plate

 

[Ancient One]

Seems my mill works ok on it. This has a full comp square chain on it. It’s a rough slab. Maybe I was pulling to hard. Man this saw has torque. Felt like I was at 1/4 throttle lol. I may be good with this one actually. I’m just going to add steel spacers under the clamps to add clearance like bobs mill. I made some skates for under the aluminum plate out of delrin it’s about 5” wider on each side. Ran out of gas on me tho , fuel filter wasn’t in the fuel. What do u guys do about the filter?View attachment 729100 View attachment 729101View attachment 729102View attachment 729103

Flip the saw so the gas tank is on the bottom. Use a filter with a weight inside. Make sure the gas hose is long enough. Fill the tank after each pass.

Another thing you can do is make up a aux fuel tank to clamp on the upright nearest the saw. Pipe it to the saw fuel tank. Maybe make a metal cap for the saw gas tank with a hose fitting. Rig it so the aux tank has a top vent. Make an identical oil tank for the other upright.

Stihl 075 and 076, I have owned/used several. Now have a mint 076 AV. This series of saw was the standard up here on the Olympic Peninsula, in the big timber old growth country, for many years. Nice powerful saws.

I have a 090AV, this one really has a lot of torque!