new member, need help picking from these used saws .....

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rynosawr

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Hello All,


Been lurking for awhile and reading a ton of posts....

I was hoping to get some help from the experts here on the board.

I am looking for a great saw to last virtually all of my life (or at least a long darn time since I am 36 now) and I have the need for cutting some firewood during the year, not more than a cord or so at most, and a general use saw. I know mechanics very well in general and clearly understand how to work on and run 2 stroke engines as I learned with my Dad, but what I don't have is user experience with any saws since I was 15 or so (again, that was roughly 20 years ago). I moved from Texas to Denver and don't have a saw here, so my Dad offered me a saw of my choice for the cost of shipping. I run only unleaded 100 octane race gas (ethanol free) in all of my equipment and I have been running Castor 927 as my pre-mix at 28:1 with the 100 octane. In Denver, the air is thin and everything makes notably less horsepower, from cars to lawn equipment. I am sort of a snob when it comes to equipment, always wanting the best I can get. You will notice all of the saws I list have Magnesium cases, I wanted that for longevity and quality.


I weigh 300 lbs and although I am pleasantly plump, I am strong and so a medium to heavy saw won't bother me much either way.

Here is what I am looking at now:

1. Nice Echo CS-452VL -needs black fan cover and throttle safety lever fixed- otherwise runs great- only cost me shipping (about $35 from my Dad to me)

2. Nice Jonesreds 630 - I don't think it is a Super - what does it take to convert one over? - Only cost me Shipping

3. Nice Husqvarna 353 - only cost me shipping

4. Dolmar PS-5100S - Buying it used with low hours expecting it to need work, broken gas tank but I bought a used tank in good condition to fix it, unknown cylinder condition as of yet- I may sell it if it is not what I really need, haven't received it yet.


Opinions and experiences welcome!!!
 
Jonsered, awesome saw. As far as differences on the Super models that is a Spike60 question. I thought all 630's were Supers. Same piston and cylinder as the 162SE Husqvarna.

Joe
 
I can't say on the saws but why in the name of all that is holy would you be running an antiquated oil like castor 927? The #### will #### up everything you own! Don't you have nasty old oil dripping from the exhaust? Do you shake your equipment every time you start it to remix the oil and gas? (it separates) How often do you do top ends? If you wait too long your rings will be glued in place. (long before they are worn out)

Sorry I can't help on the saws but please find a modern oil! You and your equipment will be happy you did.

Maybe then we can start a conversation about why you're wasting money on race gas....
 
The displacement of the 630 may be of some advantage to you, hard to beat displacement for power, especially at higher altitudes. There is much better mix oils today than that old Castor as already stated, get some modern mix oil that stays mixed with your gasoline and burns cleaner,much cleaner.
 
On the 630, pretty sure the only difference between a regular and super is a sticker. Some older models might have a two piece coil and metal arm chainbrake (I'm going off my knowledge of 670 super, superII and champs, correct me if I'm wrong)

I'd take the 630 for sure. Then either the 353 or the 5100, both solid 50cc saws. Plus you can convert the 353 into a 346xp if you desired.
 
The 353 is a nice platform and very easy to work on. I have no experience with the others
 
Thanks all for the kind responses!!!

I am happy to run another recommended oil and I am open to suggestions.

I have a little RC CAR zenoah 27.2cc engine with 14:1 compression and a rated 5hp that the builder recommends 100 octane in and the castor 927, but I am happy to change out oils...

I run the 100 octane so I don't have any worries with fuel lines or bad gas and my equipment loves it as well!!!
 
The only guys I know that still run castor are shifter cart guys who are turning more than 15,000rpm. They actually lean out their carbs on the straits to gain a few more rpm! They also pull their motors down after every weekend.

I've been happy with the Stihl oil in the silver bottle but I was also happy with the orange bottle before that.

For your little zenoah I would probably talk with the builder about alternatives before switching from his recommendation.

My personal favorite is 2 stroke oil is Dumonde Tech DTP mixed 40:1 with VP C-12 race gas. That's what I run in my CR250RT. Crispy throttle response, runs cool, and burns clean! I have run a lot of different oils in 25 years of MX and I've never seen pistons that looked as good as mine do after a season of running DTP.
 
Really? I would be jumping on #1 #2 and #3.:D
Occasional 927 is ok.I try to burn 5 gallons of mix a year just for the smell of it.:D
 
The displacement of the 630 may be of some advantage to you, hard to beat displacement for power, especially at higher altitudes. There is much better mix oils today than that old Castor as already stated, get some modern mix oil that stays mixed with your gasoline and burns cleaner,much cleaner.
No replacement for displacement
 
Hi Rynosawr, welcome to Colorado...

I have a saw shop in Boulder, I fix and flip or fix and keep saws... My suggestion is that a 353 at a mile high is light, you lose hp at alt. I like husqvarna 262xp- I have 6, 272xp- I have 3, 372xp-2, 395xp- 2, 288-2, 2100-4.... I like back ups, one of each ported and at least one stock

Pick the jred 630, 90% of my cutting is done with a 262xp, 61cc screamers... ported and/or just slightly modified. If you wanna talk, pm me a number and I'll call.

Currently my trade/sell stash is a 576xp, 346, 357xp... One almost done 036, three oh44's in cartons, a 266/jred 670 franken saw, and a **** load of homeowner saws like 55's, ms310, 350's, ms250's...

If you are gonna cut the nasties, cottonwood and elm flood debris like me I would suggest you try my 576xp.....

bill
 
Hi Rynosawr, welcome to Colorado...

I have a saw shop in Boulder, I fix and flip or fix and keep saws... My suggestion is that a 353 at a mile high is light, you lose hp at alt. I like husqvarna 262xp- I have 6, 272xp- I have 3, 372xp-2, 395xp- 2, 288-2, 2100-4.... I like back ups, one of each ported and at least one stock

Pick the jred 630, 90% of my cutting is done with a 262xp, 61cc screamers... ported and/or just slightly modified. If you wanna talk, pm me a number and I'll call.

Currently my trade/sell stash is a 576xp, 346, 357xp... One almost done 036, three oh44's in cartons, a 266/jred 670 franken saw, and a **** load of homeowner saws like 55's, ms310, 350's, ms250's...

If you are gonna cut the nasties, cottonwood and elm flood debris like me I would suggest you try my 576xp.....

bill
Cant go wrong with a husky id like to get my hands on a 372 or 572 xp air injection stock they rip and modded well youl have ur hands full when you choose to run it wide open
 
Cant go wrong with a husky id like to get my hands on a 372 or 572 xp air injection stock they rip and modded well youl have ur hands full when you choose to run it wide open

I'm not aware of a 572 just yet, but you are right the 372's are wicked mean. However I prefer the 272's, they are a rock of a saw, I just sent a 272 out last month for porting... by the same man who did one of my 372's.... we shall see
 
I'm not aware of a 572 just yet, but you are right the 372's are wicked mean. However I prefer the 272's, they are a rock of a saw, I just sent a 272 out last month for porting... by the same man who did one of my 372's.... we shall see
Only thing i own that resembles a husky is my poulan pro 46cc. And i have a couple stihls and much rather have a good husky.
 
At that altitude ditch the 100 octane for saws. They're too low on compression to take advantage of it. You may gain 10-15% more power back with 89 octane corn free.
 

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