New Project:MS460. Any tips for me?

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My vote?

Build it clean and ALL oem, even the slug if you can, but meteor is ok.

Then send it to a builder and let them have there way with it. Porting/performance upgrade are a lot of work and take a lot of equipment. You’ll get a better result sending it out. I no longer port saws professionally myself-that’s over.

460’s have good factory compression. An oem piston is around 12 grams( not 100% on number) lighter than a meteor. Meteor has wider skirts than oem, so you can go wider on the ports with one.

Forget a popup, do a .025 chamber cut and lower the jug. You’ll be at around 190-200 psi, which is the sweet spot.

A stock 460 oiler should be fine with a 25. There is an HO oiler upgrade, the piston is easily identifiable as it has a groove in the gear that the standard one doesn’t.

Here’s an 8 pin 25



Here’s a 36” 7pin

 
Define mechanical then. As pertaining to chainsaws.

And the mechanical circlips, how do you tell if they are OEM, or junky China made?

WTF! If one pops out the whole engine is toast.

Circlips are 50 cents at a stihl dealer why cheap out there? You'll be able to tell from the little plastic still packaging with stihl part # on it.
 
Had I known they were "Mechanical" I would not have used them. OMG!!! I thought they were just pieces of stiff wire. Damn, Damn, Damn!!!! Is there a possibility the engine could explode? Is there a safe radius for observers?

What if the circlip gets separated from the packaging, how does one tell? I can't believe there isn't a warning label clearly engraved into the circlip.

Are bar nuts mechanical? I have some Aftermarket bar nuts (aka ticking time bombs) on both my saws, so far I have been lucky -- nobody has died yet.

:surprised3:

WTF! If one pops out the whole engine is toast.

Circlips are 50 cents at a stihl dealer why cheap out there? You'll be able to tell from the little plastic still packaging with stihl part # on it.
 
And HF 20 pc screwdriver sets with the translucent colored plastic handles for $1.99 are just plastic molded over metal, that means they have to be as good as Klein, Craftsman, Matco, Snap-on too then correct? I mean, it's just plastic and metal, they should all be the same? Give me a break. The same quality that goes into those tools goes into the aftermarket Chinese saw parts. It's junk, I don't care if it's a bar nut, circlip, or one of their lovely spark plugs, it's crap, and when you fill your saw with it, well.... The same people buy into the whole big bore nonsense, they buy a Chicom big bore P&C and rave about how mean their saw is, truth is, I've never seen an out of the box aftermarket big bore kit run as well as a stock bore OEM topend. There may be one, but I know enough to know I'll never know.
 
In case you guys are wondering what kind of genius you're in the midst of here, he recently re-built a 350 with an $89 Amazon top end when it was plainly explained to him that for $10 or less more he could have an OEM NE piston and cylinder. If his arguments seem unreasonable, to defy logic, it's because they do. He's just trying to bring some politics/religion forum over here. Save yourself the headache.
 
In case you guys are wondering what kind of genius you're in the midst of here, he recently re-built a 350 with an $89 Amazon top end when it was plainly explained to him that for $10 or less more he could have an OEM NE piston and cylinder. If his arguments seem unreasonable, to defy logic, it's because they do. He's just trying to bring some politics/religion forum over here. Save yourself the headache.

Good to know, thanks Tim.
 
I'm still waiting on the definition of "Mechanical". And are bar nuts "Mechanical"? These are simple questions, so why don't you answer them. instead of attacking me?

AND FWIW, the owner of the saw is quite happy with the rebuild and the increased power. This is a saw that he was about done with, having near zero value to him. Furthermore the saw has seen plenty of use over the last week with it's "Mechanical" Non-OEM parts, and has not blown up nor has it killed anybody yet.

Despite cuinrearview's inaccurate and misleading recap about the rebuild, cuinrearview was full of advise freely given during the rebuild. He came across as a squish expert, claiming his vast experience as a small engine expert to validate his internet prowess. When I followed his advise the squish was wildly off 'his' specs, so I went back and measured this original squish. True to his MO, even the original equipement HAD TO BE Non-OEM. I mean really!!! An original owner Husqvarna saw that had never been taken apart somehow got some Chinese parts in it. What a claim, but it had to be, because cuinrearview is never wrong.

Hey buddy, no hard feelings --> :cool:

In case you guys are wondering what kind of genius you're in the midst of here, he recently re-built a 350 with an $89 Amazon top end when it was plainly explained to him that for $10 or less more he could have an OEM NE piston and cylinder. If his arguments seem unreasonable, to defy logic, it's because they do. He's just trying to bring some politics/religion forum over here. Save yourself the headache.
 
You mean the one where you claimed an OEM cylinder had .039" squish with no gasket? You mean the one with the Chicom cylinder that was some of the worst looking casting work I've ever seen? The one where you said a saw with 70lbs of compression ran okay and cut wood? The one where you had a saw with a scored piston and didn't see any reason to do a vac and pressure test because vapor lock doesn't have anything to do with it? Yea I read it, quite comical really, I hope everyone reads it. Pretty much all it did for me is be thankful you'll never work on anything of mine, and I know in the future if you happen to sell a saw in the trading post, I need to just understand it's a parts saw that is probably mostly Chicom junk. There is no way in hell that saw is making more power than it did stock before the scoring.

Hey man, no hard feelings...
 
Yeah, that one. The one badly read, grossly misunderstood, or not at all, by you. And I have never heard of Chicom. But no doubt you have. Does that make you an expert, too. :rolleyes:

You mean the one where you claimed an OEM cylinder had .039" squish with no gasket? You mean the one with the Chicom cylinder that was some of the worst looking casting work I've ever seen? The one where you said a saw with 70lbs of compression ran okay and cut wood? The one where you had a saw with a scored piston and didn't see any reason to do a vac and pressure test because vapor lock doesn't have anything to do with it? Yea I read it, quite comical really, I hope everyone reads it. Pretty much all it did for me is be thankful you'll never work on anything of mine, and I know in the future if you happen to sell a saw in the trading post, I need to just understand it's a parts saw that is probably mostly Chicom junk. There is no way in hell that saw is making more power than it did stock before the scoring.

Hey man, no hard feelings...
 
You bought a Chicom kit for the 350. Feel free to point out which part I didn't comprehend? I'm certainly no expert. I'm always willing to learn, even if it's watching someone do something wrong. I don't know anything about saws, they scare me.
 
Did I? Seems you know more about what I bought then I. By GOD, you are an expert!!!

You bought a Chicom kit for the 350. Feel free to point out which part I didn't comprehend? I'm certainly no expert. I'm always willing to learn, even if it's watching someone do something wrong. I don't know anything about saws, they scare me.
 
Did I? Seems you know more about what I bought then I. By GOD, you are an expert!!!

I'm sure I do know more about what you bought than you do. That isn't much of an accomplishment at this point. So, are you going to point out my lack of compression? I mean, you've rebuilt a saw with Chicom junk, that must be some sort of wizardry.
 
How dull this becoming. You just KNOW things, don't you, like a 7yo does?

I'm out. I'll just check in and see if cuintherear will educate us all, on all things 'mechanical'. Til then, my funny little know it all friend.

Kind of what I expected, someone calls you out and puts you to task, it's time to take your ball and go home... I do just know some things yes, you are probably accurate that a 7 year old would know that is a Chicom kit as well. Never claimed to know it all, but that's the kind of response I'd expect from you.
 
My vote?

Build it clean and ALL oem, even the slug if you can, but meteor is ok.

Then send it to a builder and let them have there way with it. Porting/performance upgrade are a lot of work and take a lot of equipment. You’ll get a better result sending it out. I no longer port saws professionally myself-that’s over.

460’s have good factory compression. An oem piston is around 12 grams( not 100% on number) lighter than a meteor. Meteor has wider skirts than oem, so you can go wider on the ports with one.

Forget a popup, do a .025 chamber cut and lower the jug. You’ll be at around 190-200 psi, which is the sweet spot.

A stock 460 oiler should be fine with a 25. There is an HO oiler upgrade, the piston is easily identifiable as it has a groove in the gear that the standard one doesn’t.

Here’s an 8 pin 25



Here’s a 36” 7pin



I was looking for building tips, EXACTLY, like you just give me, thank you. The only Chinese part going in this saw will be the tank/handle. Unless I can find a nice one from a 460 or 461. I may get lucky and find a 461 with a trashed top end to get my tank from. The oem bearings are in great shape.

I will say this, Hyway's pistons look great, very nice pieces. They are also light. I want to find an oem that's in good condition. Also looking at the Meteor pistons, and definitely Caber rings. I dont know if it's normal or not, but my stock piston from my 360 says "Mahle" inside it.

Can I ask why you're against the popup?
 

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