pilotwingz
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so does anyone know what size/type H.T. wire my saw uses ?? ... I don't own a multi-meter but can the on-off switch be tested with one , and if so how ??
New to site , original owner CS650EVL , have some questions ...
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pilotwingz
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the Stilh service shop down the road is ordering me the H.T wire ($1.99) and the chaff tube for my saw ($.79) ... I'll let you know if that makes any difference after I put it together ... anyone know how to test the on-off switch w/a multi-meter ??
The stop position should short the wire going to the coil to ground, run should read open. Use continuity/ohm function of the meter.
pilotwingz
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so right now the pull starter side cover is off , the plastic flywheel cover is off , the Ignition coil is off , and the switch wires are just hanging there unattached (a white wire and a black wire) ... when put together the white wire was on one of the 2 fine thread screws that secures the T.C. module to the Ignition coil and the black wire was on one of the (f.t.) screws that secured the plastic flywheel cover ...
the switch is just a part of a circuit between the white wire and the black wire correct ?? ... the switch opens or closes the circuit correct ?? ... what do you do just connect the multi-meter to the white and black wires , then operate the switch off and on to see if the circuit opens and closes ?? ... please don't assume I know anything I talk about for certain , I'm trying to understand ... I don't think I understand yet why the switch shuts the saw off or allows it to run , there isn't any electric going through the switch , correct ?? ... and if electric is going through the switch where is it coming from ??
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I am not familiar with this model, but on/off switches normally just go to "ground", which grounds out the ignition, to shut the saw off. So just disconnecting this circuit from the ignition, the saw should run fine, if the coil is fine, but you would have to pull off the plug wire, or choke/flood the saw to shut it down.
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Re-reading this thread:
This saw is 34 years old, I think that your trouble is likely in the fuel system, the parts of which are likely in real bad shape, and are generally replaced as a matter of maintenence anyway. Plus the newer fuels are real hard on the rubber parts.
This saw is 34 years old, I think that your trouble is likely in the fuel system, the parts of which are likely in real bad shape, and are generally replaced as a matter of maintenence anyway. Plus the newer fuels are real hard on the rubber parts.
pilotwingz
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OK , I understand the fuel system should be serviced , I understand all the parts that should be replaced ... but first I need to know that I'm getting good spark "every" time I pull the starter , otherwise what's the use of servicing the fuel system components if the "spark" isn't reliable ??
You know I cannot get a new Ignition coil or T.C. module , or switch for this saw because those parts are "no longer available" ... the only reason I'm counting on the Ignition coil and T.C. module being good is because it "did start" and run that one time ... as soon as the the new piece of H.T. wire comes in I'll make up a new one and put it all back together ... then at least I will be able to determine if I'm getting good spark "every" time ... if I am that's good ... if it sparks sometimes but not always then I will be thinking the Ignition coil and/or T.C. module is going up ...
so if understand correctly , the on-off switch can be eliminated and the saw should still start , but won't shut off unless you choke it out , is that correct (??)
pilotwingz
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I keep saying the fuel system rubber tubes all seem good to me , flexible , not leaking , look good , and the cylinder is getting fuel to it , the Impulse tube looks good too ... it's possible the carb may have been rebuilt when I took it to the Echo service center for a go over 4 years ago but I don't know that for certain ... I told the guy it was hard starting , also ask him to replace the pull chord , they charged me $80. when I picked it up ... I felt I got ripped off because it still was hard to start after that ... I know he didn't replace the H.T. wire because the one I just took off is the original , and as I said before it looks bad to me not getting good connection at each end ...
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Yes, the switch is just a path to "ground" out the coil and shut off the engine, so just unplug the wire, and then test your spark. Take it totally out of the loop.
The rubber in the carb kit gets stiff, and makes for hard starting. It just sounds like your troubles are fuel related.
The rubber in the carb kit gets stiff, and makes for hard starting. It just sounds like your troubles are fuel related.
pilotwingz
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Yeah OK , I can just leave the switch wires disconnected and let them hang outside the saw and that won't interfere with the saw getting good spark if the Ignition coil , T.C. module , H.T. wire and plug are all good ... that's what I needed to know ... so if I'm understanding correctly , if I don't get good spark after making a new H.T. wire (the plug is good) , then something is going wrong with the Ignition Coil or T.C. module ...
like I said , I don't mind going through the carb and hoses , even if the service tech did do that 4 years ago which I don't know for sure if he did or didn't , I guess it's no big deal to do it just in case he didn't , can't hurt anything "know" it got done by doing it myself ...
OK , thanks again for now ... I'll keep you updated as I go ... I just want this saw to run nice again , it's a good saw and I'd hate to have to give up on it , especially since I bought it new way back then ... me and the saw have a long history if that makes any sense ...
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