Newbie to running older saws, question on mix ratio

[scut207]

I have access from my dads passing to a lot of olds school saws. I need to cut down a few trees in suburbia will not be doing any sort of heavy logging.

My current stable is an 015, an 031AV, MS 280, MS 290, MS440 a TS400 cutoff and a Homelite 1130G which I only use for the last cut close to the ground on some really really big(to me) stuff as it has a 36sh" bar. Thinking I should never use it tho, as it has a 1/2" chain and I know those are rarer than chicken teeth.

Can they all run on modern 40 or 50:1 mix without danger of damage? I mix my own as I have a gas station nearby that sells non-ethonal that I use in all my small engine stuff.

 

[scut207]

I did some searching though a lot of threads and I guess the current concensus is that 40:1 modern mix wont hurt the older saws at all.

mods can delete if this has been asked too much. Just didnt want to hurt anything the old man put time into.

 

[lone wolf]

I did some searching though a lot of threads and I guess the current concensus is that 40:1 modern mix wont hurt the older saws at all.

mods can delete if this has been asked too much. Just didnt want to hurt anything the old man put time into.

Yes I think 40 to 1 will work fine.

 

[cookies]

40-1 is fine using modern fd rated oils tho I tend to add a extra cap of oil to the 70's and older stuff with chrome bores. You can usually tell them apart by their metal side and top covers

 

[UnTaking]

I run 32:1 but I'm sure 40:1 is fine. But it does say to mix 32:1 on the acres site for the Homelite 1130G at least.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I find 40:1 to be fine for all my vintage saws, modern mix oils are so much better than the old crankcase oil that was often used in vintage saws. We ran 30 wt. in the 600 series Pioneers for 20 years or more, all those saws are still running but now on 40:1 two stroke mix, the exhaust ports no longer carbon up.

 

[camel2019]

I run 32 to 1 in both vintage and modern 2 stroke equipment as long as you tune your equipment to the mix you are running it will be fine.

 

[scut207]

I run 32 to 1 in both vintage and modern 2 stroke equipment as long as you tune your equipment to the mix you are running it will be fine.

Thanks to all that have replied. Ive been trying to absorb a lot of information before I put any serious cutting on these. I want to make sure I am understanding well what I recall him telling me this like 5-8 yrs ago. A coupl of the saws are old enough that if I screw up Im going on a vision quest for parts that I'd rather not entertain.

My dad always did the tuning, and would make minor adjustments as the day went on when we cut and I don't really have the ear for it yet. I remember him telling me that if its screaming when WOT outside of wood its likely gonna seize in wood if you use it long enough set up like that, and that when its actually in wood it will lean out more than when just trigger pulling with no load.

I also remember him telling me to fatten it up till you just barely hear it 4-stroking, I know what it sounds like, kinda like the saw is hitting an RPM limiter. That you want it to fatten up the H till you hear it just barely 4 stroke outside of wood at WOT rather than scream.

When your in the wood, the piston is not moving as fast and that extra fuel will burn giving you the power to keep the RPMs up. if still 4 stroking in a full WOT in cut your too fat, losing power, and to tighten the H down a bit.

Majority of posts seems to agree with this theory... but theres a lot of contradicting info as well. Am I on target with this?

 

[camel2019]

I get them to where they will run first. then I lean out the low until it’s about to die then I back it out till it’s about to die then I set it in the middle. I do the same for the high side i like to leave both a little rich.

 

[ericm979]

When tuning in the field, for the high I tune it so it will just four stroke when I lift while cutting. For the low I find the setting with the highest idle then richen it up a little. If I set it with a tach in the shop following the Stihl procedure in the shop manual I never need to adjust the low setting in the field and only change the high when the air temp is a lot different from when I tuned it.

 

[North by Northwest]

If you mix Quality oil & tune your saw properly within the cut , neither 40:1 or 50:1 will be an issue . Stay away from any 4mix rated or marine grade 2T oils and you will be fine . Today's modern oils have made 32:1 obsolete , unless your in a milling saw application brother !

 

[Backstage]

My thinking is to listen to the oil manufacturer's recommendation. The 32:1/40:1 etc from the saw manufacturer assumes you're putting the cheapest and worst of the oil available at the time of production.

 

[camel2019]

My thinking is to listen to the oil manufacturer's recommendation. The 32:1/40:1 etc from the saw manufacturer assumes you're putting the cheapest and worst of the oil available at the time of production.

Most saws from days gone by actually say 16 to 1 that was with non detergent 30 weight. I want the insurance of a little extra oil that is why I run 32:1.

 

[North by Northwest]

MnebdedMy thinking is to listen to the oil manufacturer's recommendation. The 32:1/40:1 etc from the saw manufacturer assumes you're putting the cheapest and worst of the oil available at the time of production.

Thats correct in my opinion also , oil technology was not evolved within actual 2T oil developnent , when 32:1 - 16:1 was recommended lol.

 

[North by Northwest]

Most saws from days gone by actually say 16 to 1 that was with non detergent 30 weight. I want the insurance of a little extra oil that is why I run 32:1.

As i said , 32:1 , 24:1 , 16:1 are not required today . When it was recommended it was because straight 30 mineral oils were being used & engine internal tolerances were sloppier . Even then saws carboned up , since it was a excessively rich mix ratio . However it was what it was & routine decarbonizing was carried out as required . Also the mineral oils back then easily dropped out of suspension in storage or did not mix properly in cold weather ,
, necessitating heavier mix ratio's overall to protect your investment . Today any mixture from 50:1 to 40:1 is more than adequate for all Vintage saws or today's modern high compression professional grade units using Premium Synthetic based oils. FC rated oil is more than adequate with homeowner saws & I always recommend FD rated oils for pro grade or modified / ported saws . As previously mentioned the only time I run heavier is 32:1 within Milling saw applications , which is the most extreme use a chainsaw will ever see . I have had numerous saws apart , new , ported & vintage . All have had adequate pooling within the crankcase & top end has a nice sheen with little or no carbon tracking . Its imparitive that you tune your saw in the cut & to the ratio & cutting application it will be used on most often . I routinely retune my saws seasonally when warranted . Today's oil is nite & day in comparison to the inferior oils of the 60's & early 70 's .

 

[Squareground3691]

EPA regulations is the reason why the manufacturers tell ya to run 50:1 plan and simple. Do Whatca like plan and simple

 

[camel2019]

As i said , 32:1 , 24:1 , 16:1 are not required today . When it was recommended it was because straight 30 mineral oils were being used & engine internal tolerances were sloppier . Even then saws carboned up , since it was a excessively rich mix ratio . However it was what it was & routine decarbonizing was carried out as required . Also the mineral oils back then easily dropped out of suspension in storage or did not mix properly i cold weather ,
, necessitating heavier mix ratio's overall to protect your investment . Today any mixture from 50:1 to 40:1 is more than adequate for all Vintage saws or today's modern high compression professional grade units using Premium Synthetic based oils. FC rated oil is more than adequate with homeowner saws & I always recommend FD rated oils for pro grade or modified / ported saws . As previously mentioned the only time I run heavier is within Milling saw applications , which is the most extreme use a chainsaw will ever see . I have had numerous saws apart , new , ported & vintage . All have had adequate pooling within the crankcase & top end has a nice sheen with little or no carbon tracking . Its imparitive that you tune your saw in the cut & to the ratio & cutting application it will be used on most often . I routinely retune my saws seasonally when warranted . Today's oil is nite & day in comparison to the inferior oils of the 60's & early 70 's .

If you ran 30 weight at 32:1 you would have wrecked a saw. I will continue to run 32:1 for everything I’m not have issues with carbon buildup bc my equipment is tuned too it.

 

[bwalker]

If you ran 30 weight at 32:1 you would have wrecked a saw. I will continue to run 32:1 for everything I’m not have issues with carbon buildup bc my equipment is tuned too it.

Same here... especially in new strato saws or older saws with chrome bores.
One other thing to consider. Do your older saws have plain bearings/bushings? If they do I would really go no less oil than 32:1.

 

[North by Northwest]

Most saws from days gone by actually say 16 to 1 that was with non detergent 30 weight. I want the insurance of a little extra oil that is why I run 32:1.

As i said , 32:1 is not requied today . When it was recommended it was because straight 30 mineral oils were being used . Even then saws carboned up since it was a excessively rich mix ratio . It Also it easy dropped out of suspension easily in storage or did not mix oroperly i cold weather

Same here... especially in new strato saws or older saws with chrome bores.
One other thing to consider. Do your older saws have plain bearings/bushings? If they do I would really go no less oil than 32:1.

My Pioneers have full Torrington bearings , likely better than what is in new saws today . Timkin is the same bearing today. Only 2T units that I have had experience with that had Babbitt bearing other wise known as bushing were OMC. 2T Lawnboy mowers . They required religious use of only OMC 2 stroke oil at 16 :1 in the 60 's then 32:1 in the late 70's to mid 80's . The Babbitt bearings & loose tolerances required heavier viscocities accordingly .

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

As i said , 32:1 , 24:1 , 16:1 are not required today . When it was recommended it was because straight 30 mineral oils were being used & engine internal tolerances were sloppier . Even then saws carboned up , since it was a excessively rich mix ratio . However it was what it was & routine decarbonizing was carried out as required . Also the mineral oils back then easily dropped out of suspension in storage or did not mix properly i cold weather ,
, necessitating heavier mix ratio's overall to protect your investment . Today any mixture from 50:1 to 40:1 is more than adequate for all Vintage saws or today's modern high compression professional grade units using Premium Synthetic based oils. FC rated oil is more than adequate with homeowner saws & I always recommend FD rated oils for pro grade or modified / ported saws . As previously mentioned the only time I run heavier is within Milling saw applications , which is the most extreme use a chainsaw will ever see . I have had numerous saws apart , new , ported & vintage . All have had adequate pooling within the crankcase & top end has a nice sheen with little or no carbon tracking . Its imparitive that you tune your saw in the cut & to the ratio & cutting application it will be used on most often . I routinely retune my saws seasonally when warranted . Today's oil is nite & day in comparison to the inferior oils of the 60's & early 70 's .

Some run 25:1 mineral and their pistons and cylinders are mint after thousands of hours. Though that’s in Australia where the wood is hard and the weather is hot.