Odd location for a return hose on a 22 ton husky wood splitter .

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blockhead22

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Anybody have any problems with the return hose location on the Husky Tractor Supply Store 22 ton with the Briggs and Stratton motor?
 
no pic can't up load to site. site error.

Do you own one? The return line seams to bend way out the way. Also why not run hydralic lines parallel to each other. The same husky with the honda engine has a different valve where they can run parallel.
 
This one belongs to a friend I used it quite a bit.
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I bought this last fall.
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no problems with either one.
 
none of your pics show the return line

Do you run it vertically? I think the extra line is to allow the unit to run both ways i suppose. Take a look at the black honda model and they run parallel. Just don't understand why they use a different valve for that setup.
 
return hose

it looks like it is a convertible, from the beam mount. Before I played with it I would set it in the vertical position ,and have a good look
 
I think the extra line is to allow the unit to run both ways i suppose. Take a look at the black honda model and they run parallel. Just don't understand why they use a different valve for that setup.

It's the same valve... you should take a better look at the Honda model.
The Honda is a horizontal crankshaft engine and is mounted on the left side of the beam (assuming the hitch is considered the "front" and you're standing at the "rear").
The Briggs is a vertical crankshaft engine and is mounted on the right side of the beam.
Because of the differences in engine configuration, mounting requirements and pump positioning the hoses/lines must be routed differently.

Why would you buy a splitter with a vertical crankshaft engine when a horizontal was available ??
 
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$500 difference

Its a $500 difference for a motor that sale for around $250. What are the opinions of the two different motors vertical verses is horizontal
 
What are the opinions of the two different motors vertical verses is horizontal

Engine, not motor...

Over the years I've worn-out, and tossed, countless vertical shaft engines... I still have, and use, every horizontal I've ever owned (some of the equipment they were mounted to wore-out, so I've moved the engines to other equipment). The oldest horizontal I have is a 1968 Tecumseh 10 HP mounted to the little tractor I abuse the crap out'a... still starts in sub-zero temps and does not use or leak one drop oil. We have a horizontal engine powering a small generator at work we use on the job sites to run power tools that much older than that. My splitter has a horizontal Tecumseh 7 HP that dates sometime before 1980... it received a new head gasket a couple years ago, but nothing else has ever been done to it and it still doesn't use enough oil that I ever have to add between changes. Right now I have a 3.5 HP horizontal Briggs sitting in the shop off dads old pressure washer (the pump quit), I don't know how old it is but that washer was "Top-of-the-Line" for its day at 1200 PSI if that says anything about age... still runs like a top and has never had anything done to it.

Horizontal crankshaft small engines are more durable, last longer, make more power, run cooler, use less fuel, and are easier to maintain and repair. Vertical crankshaft small engines belong on lawn mowers... nothing else. Three really big issues with verticals is proper lubrication (especially the upper side of the cylinder/piston), uneven heat dissipation (especially the lower side of the cylinder/piston), and dirt/grit contamination of the lower crank bearing (all the dirt and crap settles right down on them). They start using oil because the cylinder gets egg shaped, and they start leaking oil because the lower bearing gets sloppy, the crank scores, the seal can't hold against the flopping crank and they leak. The damage to the cylinder and crank makes them too expensive to repair... you toss them and buy another. Chances are, if you keep clean fresh oil in a horizontal engine it will likely outlive you (clean, fresh oil means you'll need to change it often, even synthetic oils... if it's using oil you've waited too long between changes and it's too late, the damage is done). My old 1968 Tecumseh 10 HP gets used 3-5 times a week year-round, used hard year-round... the oil gets changed 5-6 times a year (and no, I don't use synthetic because it would still get just as dirty and contaminated, just as fast, and need changing just as often).
 
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it looks like it is a convertible, from the beam mount. Before I played with it I would set it in the vertical position ,and have a good look

I was looking at the beam..It has a pin to hold it in the piccy.It is not bolted I suspect the beam can be moved to a vertical position. then see what happens to the hoses. Mine is a champion 22t and it has a similar beam mount, and it is convertible, vertical or horizontal, real handy with big rounds
The only down side to this splitter I can see is the engine position, if you have a stuck log and you retract the ram to take it off the wedge it could fall on the engine.In that position it would not matter what engine was on it. I would put a guard over it
 
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I guess Merriam-Webster is clueless.
Just sayin'.

Not "clueless"... but wrong.

An engine converts thermal energy into mechanical energy (i.e. an internal combustion engine, a steam engine, etc.).

A motor converts other forms of (usually generated) energy into mechanical energy and/or converts energy (even mechanical energy) into motion.

An engine may be part of a motor... but in, and of itself, is not a motor.
An automobile is a motor; the combination of engine, transmission, differential and axle is a motor (converts energy into motion), but the engine is only part of the motor... the engine is still just the engine. The device that starts the engine (the starter) is a separate motor; it converts electrical (not thermal) energy into mechanical energy causing motion inside the engine. The electricity used to power the starter motor is stored in the battery, produced by the generator, which is powered by the automobile engine, not the automobile motor.

A log splitter is a motor; it converts energy into motion (the ram moves). That motor has three major components, the engine, the hydraulic pump, and the hydraulic cylinder. You wouldn't call the cylinder a "motor", you wouldn't call the pump a "motor", and for the same reason you can't call the engine a "motor"... because it takes all three working together to constitute a "motor".

Please don't get me started on the labeling of "Motor Oil"... but if you notice, oil produced for specific engine applications is labeled as "Engine Oil" (i.e., 2-cycle engine oil, diesel engine oil, etc.).
 
The problem with dictionaries, such as the Merriam-Webster New World, is they don't list just the "proper" definition and usage of a word... they list all sorts of meanings based on "popular" usage, "slang" usage, and whatnot. Take for example the words "cool", "neat", "groovy" and "far-out", just to name a few... and with each new edition previously unrecognized words are added, others removed, and definitions change according to the whims of "popular" usage and the editors.

In the Power Engineering Dictionary (after all we are talking about power engineering) the word "engine" is given one single definition...
ENGINE - Prime mover; device for transforming fuel or heat energy into mechanical energy.
...and the word "motor" isn't even defined... because, for example, an electric motor is actually an Electromechanical Device that converts an electrical input into mechanical action.

But, in the Merriam-Webster dictionary the word "engine" is given several meanings... many of which have nothing to do with "power engineering" or power generation (which is what we're referring to in this thread) and based more on "popular", albeit incorrect English usage. Words mean something... using them incorrectly or out of the context of the topic at hand is an unforgivable travesty.

An internal combustion engine is not a motor... never has been, never will be... "popular slang" does not change that.
Calling an engine by the name "motor" is ignorance of the truth... Merriam-Webster notwithstanding (yes, that is one word).
 
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Changing of vertical to horizontal motor

how hard would it be to change the Briggs motor when it burns out to a horizontal motor
 
I wish my vertical shaft engine on my splitter would quit so I can throw a single cylinder diesel in it's place. Sadly it's still going strong after 13 years of splitting with no signs of quitting. This is on my HUSKEE 22-ton (similar to the one pictured earlier) circa 2000
 
Engine, not motor...

Over the years I've worn-out, and tossed, countless vertical shaft engines... I still have, and use, every horizontal I've ever owned (some of the equipment they were mounted to wore-out, so I've moved the engines to other equipment). The oldest horizontal I have is a 1968 Tecumseh 10 HP mounted to the little tractor I abuse the crap out'a... still starts in sub-zero temps and does not use or leak one drop oil. We have a horizontal engine powering a small generator at work we use on the job sites to run power tools that much older than that. My splitter has a horizontal Tecumseh 7 HP that dates sometime before 1980... it received a new head gasket a couple years ago, but nothing else has ever been done to it and it still doesn't use enough oil that I ever have to add between changes. Right now I have a 3.5 HP horizontal Briggs sitting in the shop off dads old pressure washer (the pump quit), I don't know how old it is but that washer was "Top-of-the-Line" for its day at 1200 PSI if that says anything about age... still runs like a top and has never had anything done to it.

Horizontal crankshaft small engines are more durable, last longer, make more power, run cooler, use less fuel, and are easier to maintain and repair. Vertical crankshaft small engines belong on lawn mowers... nothing else. Three really big issues with verticals is proper lubrication (especially the upper side of the cylinder/piston), uneven heat dissipation (especially the lower side of the cylinder/piston), and dirt/grit contamination of the lower crank bearing (all the dirt and crap settles right down on them). They start using oil because the cylinder gets egg shaped, and they start leaking oil because the lower bearing gets sloppy, the crank scores, the seal can't hold against the flopping crank and they leak. The damage to the cylinder and crank makes them too expensive to repair... you toss them and buy another. Chances are, if you keep clean fresh oil in a horizontal engine it will likely outlive you (clean, fresh oil means you'll need to change it often, even synthetic oils... if it's using oil you've waited too long between changes and it's too late, the damage is done). My old 1968 Tecumseh 10 HP gets used 3-5 times a week year-round, used hard year-round... the oil gets changed 5-6 times a year (and no, I don't use synthetic because it would still get just as dirty and contaminated, just as fast, and need changing just as often).


The cylinders in horizontal shaft engines wear egg shaped too.Has to do with thrust loads imposed on the piston/cylinder during the power stroke.
People are always knocking Tecumseh engines but I have one on a mower I bought in '83 or '84 and it's still going strong.
 

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