oleo-mac 947

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macoleo947

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Hi,

I Found here a oleo-mac 947 (same as elco 147 ??) saw not sure how old definetely 10+ years wtih some small patch of molten burned plastic on the topcover but it doesnt look like it effected anything of the engine (it was rescued from a fire so smoke could be a issie). The saw looks quality way more metal on it than allot of new saws like steel M440 that i also found.
. I've been repairing minibikes,crossers for some years but this is my first chainsaw so im gathering information.

-I made the bougie spark again but its not a bright spark like im used on bikes when i pull the cord hard the shock tickles me instead of hurt me like on a bike I guess that's wrong?

so I tested:
  • -3 bougies they all made the same spark
  • -distance of bougie is 0.45mm like factory demands , ignition coil distance is correct to , flywheel looks fine , wires look old but not broken and its properly connected but without a rubber bougiedop like im used to on bikes.
  • -I disconnected the ignition coil and the spark remained the same intensity.
  • -I shortcutted the ignition switch and the spark remained the same.
  • -It is a electronic ignition so its not that old that it has points.

The compression is ok but im also used a little more but i guess that's not the problem
The exhaust isn't blocked can't saw the exhaust of chainsaws are tuned for perfomance but thats fine.
The pulley works perfect.
The carb doesn't look damaged but could be wrong adjusted.

Any info is appreciated couldnt find more than a basic manual no repair manual at all..

thanks already,

are those links also the oleo mac 947 they def look the same...
http://www.efcopower.com/sites/default/files/147-152_USA_C.pdf
http://www.efcopower.com/sites/default/files/147_IPL_0.pdf
 
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No clue what happend but 1st post got deleted so typing it again.

I found here in a shed 2 saws a oleo mac 947 and a modern ####ty looking Steel m440.

Both are broken and gonna repair the oleo mac 947 ( i think its now efco 147-152).

The chainsaw has a weak spark when i pull the cord it tickles me instead of hurt me. So i checked the following.

-3 Bougies all same spark.
-ingnition distance of bougie 0,5mm , ingnition coil distance but the spark remained weak.
-flywheel is fine.
-on off switch shortcutted and spark remained weak
-Wanted to replace the bougie cable but it looks like its fixed to the ignition coil it doesnt look broken..
-Disconnected the ignition coil and the spark remained the same.

So what can make the spark remain weak or do chainsaw dont spark as aggressive as a dirtbike?

exhaust , carb , engine and compression all like ok to me.


it looks more on the efco 152.
 
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no measuring tools at all in this place.
But found a decompression switch so i expect the decompression is to low because its easy to pull the cord without it.

Good compression + weak spark should result in a running engine or at least some signs of life.
At least in bikes.
 
no measuring tools at all in this place.
But found a decompression switch so i expect the decompression is to low because its easy to pull the cord without it.

Good compression + weak spark should result in a running engine or at least some signs of life.
At least in bikes.

A couple of Oleo Mac`s I have with electronic ignition[ 1 with new coil] seem to have a somewhat weak spark when grounding the plug to cylinder, but both start well & run good so I just leave well alone & keep running them until they are a no go [ a homelite with a similar ignition coil is the same, so maybe they operate like that. rig your saw up & try it, it might work as it should [ I find mine has the strongest spark with 10 thou clearance between flywheel & coil]
 
Than i will check it if it runs now .

if not i will stilltrust the electronics for now and get some heavy compression it has to be done anyway...
 
Okay I opened it and it was what i was afraid of...

The piston was fine but 1 of the spring is broken a little and scratch the nicasil layer on the alu cylinder So i had only compression of 1 of the springs.

Those alu/nicasil cylinders are almost same priced as 2nd hand stihls in Poland.

gotta search for a cylinder won't be easy i guess.
 
Saws fitted with an electronic coil in this model & also the 244 & rebadged models, all seem to have a weak spark [even with a new coil/ flywheel] I find setting the air gap 10 thou gives the strongest spark & the 3 versions of of saw I have all work fine. I think you will find if you set it up at this [&all else is good it will start & run OK] one other thing I find with these saws is you have to leave the choke on a little longer, dis engaging on the first pop makes it more difficult to start. 1 turn out on both H&L mixture screws to be the best start point nice well made saws with good performance for there size.
 
Some saws with electronic ignition have a weak spark at cranking speed. Case in point, is one of my Pioneer P-41's. Very hard to detect a spark even in a dark garage with a well grounded spark plug (bougie?).

Starts and runs like the rest of the collection.

I prefer a points type magneto any day.
 
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