People don't yet take battery operated chainsaws seriously.

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Is charge time such that one batt can charge while other running the saw and therefore can continuously cycle w two batts or need 3 batts.
More batteries are always better, especially, if they power other stuff you use (pole saw, leaf blower, lights, etc ).

Realistically, you are rarely running the saw continuously: you make a cut, move, cut, reposition, cut, move some branches, etc. A gas saw will be idling that whole time, using fuel even when not cutting, whereas, a battery (or corded electric) saw stops each time you release the trigger.

As a practical matter you will probably be using the smaller, battery saws differently than a production bucker/ feller would use a larger saw.

Philbert
 
One important difference between battery trucks, trains, ships, cars, motorcycles, forklifts, whatever and battery chainsaws is the operator of the chainsaw has to carry the weight of the battery and saw.

Yes, there are saws with separate battery packs but they are not cordless.

Owning and using petrol and battery saws my experience tells me that any new battery saw designed to be the equivalent of a 60 or 70 cc saw would need a much bigger and heavier battery to compete. My MSA 220 would become an awesome beast with twin batteries attached but I doubt my arms could cope with such a weight for long.

Another aspect is one can't use a battery saw when there's rain about.
And doesn’t winter cold significantly decrease battery run time?
 
Nobody plays golf with just one club’. - Philbert
Funnily enough, I used to play a bit of golf with my mothers old set of clubs. Not a serious golfer but a friend asked me to join a competition and by some fluke I won a 10degrees loft driver.
The next time we played together I started with the new driver and the ball went straight and true, something that rarely, if ever happened before! Next shot on the fairway was a three yard duffer using my mothers old 3 iron. Next drive was straight and true so I used the new driver for the fairway again straight and true. Same thing next few holes and by the 5th I was using the driver to chip onto the greens, ended p putting with it!
Did so well that I easily beat my friend and we agreed that it was all about my mother's old clubs being wrong for me.
Next time out a week later, I could not do a thing with the driver! That is the trouble with golf, it is all in the mind and is really a game against yourself which is why I do not play it anymore!
 
Anyone out there own A Stihl 220 …. Or similar?
Yes, I bought one as my wrists are arthritic and at three score years and ten I cannot do the pull start any more. The 300 S batteries are nearly as much as the saw, but I bought two. I use a Kawasaki Mule in the woods so I do not need to carry things very far and I have fitted a mains voltage inverter so that I can charge one battery while working the other, which works well in practice all day. 14 inch bar will handle 20 inch log but not like a gas saw. Much better for 6-8 inch diameter logs fr firewood which is about the limit that I wish to lift and load into the Mule.
Perfect tool for snedding and carrying in the car after the recent storms to deal with the small diameter branches and trees that are in the roads.
 
Got my cordless Milwaukee pole saw 2 days ago. Heavy lil thing but not terrible. Gonna be almost 60* tomorrow in my parts so I may slap it together and give it a go. Will report back my thoughts.
Just make sure the chain stays tight. When I am in long cuts it does loosen (think 6-10 inch branch ) and I know to stop when I hear the rattle or the chain will throw.
Let me know how your oiler works as mine does not throw anywhere near enough oil.
I put mine to work and it is holdin up pretty well, chain stays sharp for a good while even though it's so thin.
I get about an hour on the 8AH battery of cutting.
 
Philbert, can you please recommend a battery powered saw for a DR Team. Of course w necessary complement of batteries and charger. Total Budget of 1K. Thank you.
I am not Philbert but here is my suggestion. Get 2 package deals for the Makita xcu03 kit with 4 batteries at $400 each. It may take a bit of work as many places make it hard to find the 4 batteries kits. Then the small single battery tool only $200 not sure of the list price I got mine on ebay for a bit less than that. Makita seems to me to use quality cells I have 12 5 amp hour ones and none has gone bad. Keep in mind these will get hot and the chainsaws do not cool the batteries. I am guessing DR means disaster response. If the disaster is in 100 degree temps pay attention to if the tool blows through the cells of the battery.

Could also look at Echo mid 50's votatge kits at $400 each two of them and a spare battery say $200+-
 
I wonder if these batteries can be rebuilt for the cost of a piston, and a set of rings??? ,,, 🤔
There are generally cylindrical cells standard sizes. 1970 2175 for example. Really need switch them all so they match. Ultimately this will be password protected for more complex. There will be aftermarket batteries depending on demand.
 
The 2nd shift maintenance guy where I work used to rebuild "pod" style cordless tool packs. DeWalt, Makita, Panasonic...... whatever you needed. NiMh and NiCd. He built his own battery tab spot welder then used stainless shim stock for the shorting bars.

He bought better cells in bulk so he got a bit of a discount. Cost with labor was about 50-75% cost of a new factory pack. Takes a bit of time to sit and do it but when ya get the hang of it, it goes faster.

Lithium is bit more involved. Matching the cells is the most critical for longevity and functionality.
 
I wonder if these batteries can be rebuilt for the cost of a piston, and a set of rings??? ,,, 🤔
In principal yes.
Unfortunately in practice many manufacturers make it unviable to do so... eg, the Ego 56V batteries are assembled in such a way that you need to break every welded connection to get a single battery out of the housing. The Makita batteries will "lock" themselves if they register a cell imbalance any more than a couple of times while charging... you can replace the cells but the battery won't charge with the original charger unless you also replace the protection circuit board
 
I wonder if these batteries can be rebuilt for the cost of a piston, and a set of rings???
Batteries Plus won’t touch Li-Ion batteries. They have a risk of fire/liability. There are guys who will buy cells and solder them, . . .

Aftermarket battery packs could be a better route for popular models, but quality remains an issue. One cell goes out in a pack and it stops working.

Battery quality should be an important factor in choosing a platform.

Philbert
 
Yes, I bought one as my wrists are arthritic and at three score years and ten I cannot do the pull start any more. The 300 S batteries are nearly as much as the saw, but I bought two. I use a Kawasaki Mule in the woods so I do not need to carry things very far and I have fitted a mains voltage inverter so that I can charge one battery while working the other, which works well in practice all day. 14 inch bar will handle 20 inch log but not like a gas saw. Much better for 6-8 inch diameter logs fr firewood which is about the limit that I wish to lift and load into the Mule.
Perfect tool for snedding and carrying in the car after the recent storms to deal with the small diameter branches and trees that are in the roads.
Thank you. Excellent info. I understand the saw is well made and durable. Always wanted a Mule…. Yours a 4 or 6 wheel?
Yes, I bought one as my wrists are arthritic and at three score years and ten I cannot do the pull start any more. The 300 S batteries are nearly as much as the saw, but I bought two. I use a Kawasaki Mule in the woods so I do not need to carry things very far and I have fitted a mains voltage inverter so that I can charge one battery while working the other, which works well in practice all day. 14 inch bar will handle 20 inch log but not like a gas saw. Much better for 6-8 inch diameter logs fr firewood which is about the limit that I wish to lift and load into the Mule.
Perfect tool for snedding and carrying in the car after the recent storms to deal with the small diameter branches and trees that are in the roads.
Billhook, may I ask which charger(s) you purchased? I ran quick numbers indicating that the saw , two 300 batteries and a charger could be had for under $1,000. I see you are in UK so it’s pounds. Thank you.
 
One important difference between battery trucks, trains, ships, cars, motorcycles, forklifts, whatever and battery chainsaws is the operator of the chainsaw has to carry the weight of the battery and saw.

Yes, there are saws with separate battery packs but they are not cordless.

Owning and using petrol and battery saws my experience tells me that any new battery saw designed to be the equivalent of a 60 or 70 cc saw would need a much bigger and heavier battery to compete. My MSA 220 would become an awesome beast with twin batteries attached but I doubt my arms could cope with such a weight for long.

Another aspect is one can't use a battery saw when there's rain about.
I use my battery saws all the time in the rain. Had my Stihl since June and Husqvarna since July. I use them pretty much everyday and have had no problems yet.
 
T540i XP is right now the industry standard ‘new’ th saw in my neck of the woods…so good that I don’t pick up any sub 60cc saw; we all prefer the 540i XP

IMO this is the first battery saw that outperforms it’s close petrol rivals

Locally I’m not the only person who thinks this and I bet there are a lot of us around the world
I pretty much agree with your post. If one of my battery saws can't handle the job, I usually grab my 572xp or 590xp.
 
Back
Top