Pioneer chainsaws

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Electrolux bought Pioneer from OMC, after killing the brand name in the '80s they used the 'P' series machinery to make the Poulan Pro 405, 455, 525, and 655 until the early '90s. What happened to it after that who knows??
 
Propliner I did some checking and the bars from my HM and RA fit on the 3270. Now I have to find one. Here are some pics of the saw and the bar mount. The saw is in really nice shape except for the missing paint. The new bar is one I picked up at the saw shop here in town. It's got a little bit different mount, and the end won't fit past the clutch drum. any idea what it's for???

Pioneer3270-1.jpg


Pioneer3270-2.jpg


PioneerBars-1.jpg


PioneerBars-2.jpg
 
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Propliner I did some checking and the bars from my HM and RA fit on the 3270. Now I have to find one. Here are some pics of the saw and the bar mount. The saw is in really nice shape except for the missing paint. The new bar is one I picked up at the saw shop here in town. It's got a little bit different mount, and the end won't fit past the clutch drum. any idea what it's for???

Pioneer3270-1.jpg


Pioneer3270-2.jpg


PioneerBars-1.jpg


PioneerBars-2.jpg
Why don't you trace the end of the old bar onto the new bar at the end, and use a bench grinder to grind down the Bar on the end to fit your saw. That is an easy fix to your problem. Bruce.
 
I've been thinking about that Bruce, but I haven't wanted to do anything irreversible to this bar until I know I have to. I'd like to find one a bit longer, say 24" instead of 20".

Here are some more 'Beaver' pics, enjoy!

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IELBeaver-6.jpg


IELBeaver-7.jpg
 
It also came with a spare chain. I sure wouldn't want to sharpen all those teeth!
 
I've never had a chance to cut with scratcher type chain but apparently it's slow going. One day I'll have to figure out where the air leak is in this saw and try it out.

By the way Bruce that's not me on my avatar!!:monkey:
 
One interesting thing about the Beaver and the AB which followed it is they had no kill switch. To shut them down you had to try to pull the plug wire off without getting zapped.
 
I noticed it was a different looking chain, and I was wondering how it would cut. I've never seen anything like it before. Bruce.

It cuts/scratches the wood quite slow by todays standards as the saws were gear drives and maximum chain speed was around 800 feet per minute. The teeth are offset left and right and filed across the face of the cutter at an angle and the top front edge of the tooth is higher making it something like a handsaw with moving separated teeth.
Pioneerguy600
 
I noticed it was a different looking chain, and I was wondering how it would cut. I've never seen anything like it before. Bruce.

It cuts/scratches the wood quite slow by todays standards as the saws were gear drives and maximum chain speed was around 800 feet per minute. The teeth are offset left and right and filed across the face of the cutter at an angle and the top front edge of the tooth is higher making it something like a handsaw with moving separated teeth.
Pioneerguy600
 
It cuts/scratches the wood quite slow by today's standards as the saws were gear drives and maximum chain speed was around 800 feet per minute. The teeth are offset left and right and filed across the face of the cutter at an angle and the top front edge of the tooth is higher making it something like a handsaw with moving separated teeth.
Pioneerguy600
Thanks Jerry for the input. Ever since I have joined AS, I've learned so much about Chain Saws, that I never knew existed. Thanks to all and your help. I sure am more than eager to learn more. Just think, I stumbled across this Web Site guide by mistake, looking for other information on my McCulloch Saws. Bruce.
 
Has anyone tried to fix up a bar for a P60 or similar mount? You can't get that mount from Oregon anymore, and was wondering if a similar mount would work. Any mount that is easy to modify?
 
Has anyone tried to fix up a bar for a P60 or similar mount? You can't get that mount from Oregon anymore, and was wondering if a similar mount would work. Any mount that is easy to modify?

Lee ; I don`t have the info here to tell you exactly what bars fit but I modify a lot of bars to fit vintage saws and the main things to get them to fit are the bar slots ,they can be widened or bushed easily to fit and the position of the oiler hole to the slot in the chain guide which can also be changed or modified. Then there is the width of the bar at the back end by the clutch, I can narrow a wider one down and reslot the bar for the chain but that`s not always so easy for most to do or get done. I find the Pioneer saws the most difficult to get bars for as there is little info on their bar mount pattern. Pioneerguy600
 
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Lee ; I don`t have the info here to tell you exactly what bars fit but I modify a lot of bars to fit vintage saws and the main things to get them to fit are the bar slots ,they can be widened or bushed easily to fit and the position of the oiler hole to the slot in the chain guide which can also be changed or modified. Then there is the width of the bar at the back end by the clutch, I can narrow a wider one down and reslot the bar for the chain but that`s not always so easy for most to do or get done. I find the Pioneer saws the most difficult to get bars for as there is little info on their bar mount pattern. Pioneerguy600

Thanks Jerry. I have a GB bar on my P60 but I don't think it is oiling the way it should. I am almost positive that it is the mount for the large Efco saws, the 981 and such. I need to take a better look at the oiler hole and go from there.
 
For the P series saws, use a Husky bar, Oregon D009 mount. It is very close, but you may need to do some minor modifications to the adjuster pin hole, and/or oil hole.

PioneerGuy, what is the number on that Oregon bar in you pictures?

PS Thanks for getting them out & taking pics!!
 
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Thanks Jerry. I have a GB bar on my P60 but I don't think it is oiling the way it should. I am almost positive that it is the mount for the large Efco saws, the 981 and such. I need to take a better look at the oiler hole and go from there.

If you take your inner guide plate and set it on the bar as if it were mounted on the saw you can easily determine if the oil passage holes line up correctly, its what I do to modify bars,should work for you also. Pioneerguy600
 
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