Pioneer chainsaws

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Heat has worked often for me, attach the puller and put good strain on the bolt, gently heat the perimeter of the flywheel. Aluminum transfers heat quickly and isn`t long before the center gets hot enough it lets go with a pop. Only needs between 350 - 400F to get this to work.
 
Heat has worked often for me, attach the puller and put good strain on the bolt, gently heat the perimeter of the flywheel. Aluminum transfers heat quickly and isn`t long before the center gets hot enough it lets go with a pop. Only needs between 350 - 400F to get this to work.
I had a good grip with a steering wheel puller. Had it at about 240 F with my heat gun. I’ll get it Warmer next time.
 
Try this it worked for me. Put under tension with a steering wheel puller. Fiddle with it until you're frustrated. Play ball and snap your achilles tendon. Have surgery and leave puller under tension for two months while healing. Get cast off, come home, give it smack. Pops right off.

Second worst one I've done.
 
Try this it worked for me. Put under tension with a steering wheel puller. Fiddle with it until you're frustrated. Play ball and snap your achilles tendon. Have surgery and leave puller under tension for two months while healing. Get cast off, come home, give it smack. Pops right off.

Second worst one I've done.
Seems a little excessive. Haha
 
Many of us like to use the metal expansion factor to our advantage, aluminum expands much faster than steel does when heated. I would also give the puller bolt a sharp rap after applying heat , it only takes about a minute or less to swell the flywheel, then tap the puller bolt head, the shock should break it free.
 
Many of us like to use the metal expansion factor to our advantage, aluminum expands much faster than steel does when heated. I would also give the puller bolt a sharp rap after applying heat , it only takes about a minute or less to swell the flywheel, then tap the puller bolt head, the shock should break it free.
SHOULD is the key word there. I heated, pulled and beat that thing to the point to where I thought something was gunna break. I’ll let it soak some penetrating oil for a bit. I’ve heard these are some of the most stubborn ones. Thx for the tips guys.
 
I think I'd try a few smacks around the perimeter using a hammer and a block o' wood before I'd go that far.

Did that many times. I didn't use heat. The only one I used heat on was a Jonsereds 801. I found the guy had used retaining compound on both the clutch (keyed as well) and the flywheel. Tough stuff.
 
Did that many times. I didn't use heat. The only one I used heat on was a Jonsereds 801. I found the guy had used retaining compound on both the clutch (keyed as well) and the flywheel. Tough stuff.

I dont think oil helps to take it apart . I put all mine together dry and cleaned off . It"s all about friction. I have also heated some to help shock it off . With puller helping.
 
Posted by Husqvarna addict, AS Oct 18-16

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/pioneer-p61-no-spark.130254/#post-6018940

Pioneer large P series coil sub from Husqvarna 365 PN 503-96-04-05 (More than likely 503 96 24-05)


Hello I know this is an old thread but today I made a Husqvarna 365 coil fit on a pioneer P61. Just slotted the one hole in the center of the coil towards the coil itself and made a piece work for the second mount. It works great and runs good. Way cheaper then trying to find the original coil for that saw when they were all bad for loosing spark. Bit mickey mouse but it works.

I used a black unlimited coil but probably could have used a blue coil too. The second screw mount was to hold the coil back from pivoting towards the flywheel, I didn't want to try to weld a nut to the existing coil so came up with this idea. Seems to work good hasn't moved, and that stuff on the coil by the screw is seal all where I ground back the body of the coil but after finishing it I think I didn't have to grind back the body at all. Surprisingly runs awesome, before I finished it I was worrying if it would be way off time but nope doesn't kick back through the pull handle when starting, and runs great through all the rpm. I don't have a way to check the timing with a timing light etc. Just had the kill wire off to show the coil, other then that all works good when connected.


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I don't have a P61 but the repair manual shows the 51 and 61 share the same ignition so the above should apply to the P51 I would think.
 
these can be tested with a pencil magnet to determine the polarity. If the polarity matches the module and the module is installed with the correct gap it should produce spark. If I couldn`t get spark then I would need to know what saw the module was for, then check that saws flywheel magnets polarity and compare that to the Pioneers flywheel.

Jerry,

I can't find any info on a pencil magnet. The Apple pencil magnet seems to have pushed all others aside on the internet.

I can see where it would be handy to have. Is it one with N - S at the ends?

Any idea would I find one?
 
Jerry,

I can't find any info on a pencil magnet. The Apple pencil magnet seems to have pushed all others aside on the internet.

I can see where it would be handy to have. Is it one with N - S at the ends?

Any idea would I find one?

Back in the day everyone had one in the toolbox, they were red one end,blue on the other, North and South clearly marked. We could get them at any hardware store then, never see one now a days. A compass works well but they are reverse marked so that gets confusing for some. If the North needle is attracted to a magnet then that is a North magnet, if it repels the needle its a South magnet.
Seems bar magnets are still avaliable while old style pencil magnets are scarce as chicken lips,..
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Magnet-Expe...429273?hash=item4d6dab5ed9:g:Hk4AAOSwHo5agYY2
 
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