I wish that he were a troll but it's obvious he's just an arrogant fool.
He knows very little about chainsaw mills, nothing about bandmills and almost as much about economics.
So get back to us and let us know how the gooey twisted mess of chipper food works out for a fence because you didn't stack and sticker, because slabs will twist,warp and cup especially if live-sawn like you did. Tell us what colors the mold is that is it grew because it sat in a wet heap.
Come back and tell us how much the new piston for 455 will be after you smoke it. Lots of stupid things in history have been done once, doesn't mean it really worked or was a good idea.
Come back and let us explain to you why your carpentry business went under because you were busy saving a few bucks on lumber and paying yourself a fair wage. To keep your cost analysis fair, if you use the chainsaw mill to mill the lumber for the barn, make sure to use a shovel for the footings and hadmix the concrete for foundation or slab. No cheating. Be sure to complete apprenticeships in all those areas to insure real quality.
Or alternatively, stop talking out of your a$$ and join in the conversation with a friendly exchange of ideas and techniques. You would be amazed at how much info you can gain from people that actually have years of experience in the field. You could think of it as an apprenticeship.
Speaking of an arrogant fool, here's a prime example of what you get when you combine book, or 'read', knowledge with, uh, nothing.
I know that the chainsaw I used fell within the rated cc category for the small log mill that I used, as recommended by the company that made it, particularly considering the treee was a softwood....and cedar at that. I know that it was sufficient for the job at hand, and actually did better than I expected it would. I know that if and when I'm ready to mill bigger or harder stuff, I'll need both a bigger chainsaw and a larger Alaskan mill.
I know that although the cedar is stacked (with plenty of air space), if it's stickered and 'allowed to dry' as suggested it will likely twist and cup and split all to hell before I get to using it. Ditto if I try to rip it before I'm ready to nail it to the fence. I only need it to sit there for 30 days or so before it I'm ready to use it.....and it won't twist, cup or split unless it's stickered and allowed to dry before I'm ready to use it. Once it's spiked to the fence I don't care what it does. Not all lumber benefits by immediate stickering. Imagine that.
And mold? Who gives a flying f**k? It's a fence for christ's sake.
As for the barn footings, I'll likely be getting one of the small backhoe/tractors and digging them myself. I need one anyways. I suppose I should go take lessons first as opposed to just using the backhoe experience I've learned on the job over the years? Yeah, right.
Dude, while you may be able to gain knowledge on this forum, indeed....there is plenty here if you know what to look for, by no means is it all accurate....probably not even by half. You've got to know how to separate the wheat from the chaff, and "info ...from people that actually have years of experience in the field" is largely only a matter of opinion.
You know what you know.
You know what you don't know.
You don't know what you don't know.
Huh? Quotes from Rumsfeld? Yeah, he's showed us what he 'knows', eh? Not exactly someone to be taking notes from, IMHO.