Redmax G5000 AVS designation, 10W-30 Chain Oil

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clarksvilleal

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The new Redmax G5000 I just ordered is apparently called the G5000 AVS. Is the "AVS" designation some kind of industry standard acronym, and if so, can someone tell me what it stands for? I think I've seen "AV" attached to other chain saw brand model names and wondered what that meant.

Also, the Redmax G5000 manual which I downloaded from their web site says to use standard automotive 10W-30 for the chain oil. Is this unusual, or do other brands also recommend automotive oil for the chain oil?

Thanks for any insights.
Al
 
Is the "AVS" designation some kind of industry standard acronym, and if so, can someone tell me what it stands for?
Dunno about the Redmax, but in general, "AV" = anti-vibration.

use standard automotive 10W-30 for the chain oil. Is this unusual, or do other brands also recommend automotive oil for the chain oil?
Seems unusual to me.
 
you could use new motor oil but i can't fathom why. All bar oil is just oil with a tackifier agent added to make it stick better.
 
Thanks, Eco.

I just saw a post on another thread I found a few minutes ago that said he has Redmax GZ4000, and his manual says to use motor oil SAE 10W-30 or SAE 30-40 in summer and SAE 20 in winter. One poster said he does use 10W-30 most of the time but also occasionally uses regular bar & chain oil. And yet another poster on that thread said he uses Stihl bar oil or sometimes canola oil in his Redmax 3800 and 4000.
 
I use 10W-30 in all my chainsaws because it's infinitely cheaper than the bar oil we can buy. I've never had a problem with it.
 
I use 10W-30 in all my chainsaws because it's infinitely cheaper than the bar oil we can buy. I've never had a problem with it.
Thanks much, Shargoth. Since that's also what Redmax recommends for thei saws, I'll go with the 10W-30 too.
 
Shargoth - just noticed you have a couple of Redmax saws. How do you like them? Supposedly the G5000 is a professional-level saw, so I was hoping it would hold up better and lasts longer than the saws they sell in the big box stores. I gather from his comments that Sunfish seems to think not, at least relative to the Husky 346xp.
 
I love my 3800. It's a hell of a saw for what it is. Though you do have to open the muffler up. Everyone will tell you that the 621 is too heavy and is an older design. But really...they're just trying to find things wrong with it. Personally if you complain about a few ounces then you probably aren't man enough to run a saw...but that's my humble opinion. I haven't found any draw backs on any of the Redmax's I've ran. I've ran the 5000's a bit. I enjoyed it. They're a solid saw. I've never ran a 346 so I can't compare. It'd be nice to see a stock v stock comparison. Let me know what you think. I recommend the 3800 all day long. It's got a lot of power and it's very well balanced.
 
There must be no Tractor Supply stores in Maryland

they have a current fall sale running on bar oil $6 per gal. Good
10W-30 costs twice that in my area. I would not use bar oil in an
engine or engine oil in a saw, just asking for expensive problems.
 
they have a current fall sale running on bar oil $6 per gal. Good
10W-30 costs twice that in my area. I would not use bar oil in an
engine or engine oil in a saw, just asking for expensive problems.
I still have about 3 quarts of bar oil I got from TSC last year, so I could use that. But since Redmax explicitly recommends 10W-30 in the owner's manual, I was beginning to wonder if they recommend that because the thicker bar & chain oil would be more likely to clog up the oiler mechanism. I just had a bad experience with a used Stihl MS290 that I bought last week not realizing the bar & chain weren't getting oiled until after I got it home. I took the bar off and it was obvious no oil was coming out of the hole where it was supposed to feed onto the bar & chain. Fortunately the seller agree to give me my money back, after which I decided to get a new saw instead of used.

So why would Redmax tell you to use 10W-30 if that could harm the saw?
 
I have a 40cc redmax and use 10w30 for chain lube. If I don't have any I have also used regular bar oil. I am interested in seeing how you like your new saw. I really like my redmax saw, I just wish more dealers carried their saws.
 
If it was me I would be using bar oil and not 10w30! I could see using 10w30 in pinch if I was cutting up wood and ran out of bar oil. Its a new saw treat it to some real bar and chain lube!
 
I still have about 3 quarts of bar oil I got from TSC last year, so I could use that. But since Redmax explicitly recommends 10W-30 in the owner's manual, I was beginning to wonder if they recommend that because the thicker bar & chain oil would be more likely to clog up the oiler mechanism. I just had a bad experience with a used Stihl MS290 that I bought last week not realizing the bar & chain weren't getting oiled until after I got it home. I took the bar off and it was obvious no oil was coming out of the hole where it was supposed to feed onto the bar & chain. Fortunately the seller agree to give me my money back, after which I decided to get a new saw instead of used.

So why would Redmax tell you to use 10W-30 if that could harm the saw?

Don't be afraid to use bar oil in your redmax, the manual is probably printed in japan where the saw is made, and 10w30 is probably more common over there then actual bar and chain lube. I know a few fella'a that own redmax saws and the use bar and chain lube all year long.
 
I have a 40cc redmax and use 10w30 for chain lube. If I don't have any I have also used regular bar oil. I am interested in seeing how you like your new saw. I really like my redmax saw, I just wish more dealers carried their saws.

I don't have the saw yet. I expect it to arrive Wednesday or Thursday. I have an immediate need to cut up about 6 or 8 fairly large apple and cherry trees, plus I have to prune low and dead branches out of a bunch of pines and maples. So I should have put it through its paces pretty well by the weekend. I'll let you know how it does after that.
 
If it wil not sling B&C oil off the bar

STOP & look into it. some oiling problems can be cleared with toothpicks
in the bar holes and the bar grooves can be easily cleaned out.
bars & chains are expensive, maintenance may be much less.
 

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