Saw maintenance
I would recommend that you use a rim sprocket instead of a tooth sprocket. One reason is that they are far easier and cheaper to change and you can use multiple number of driving rims to get a selection of torque and chain speed from your saw. They also seem to run and wear better for me. I even use them on my smaller 210 size saws. Simple thing to make your saw more pro-like, no matter the size or design intention.
Basic maintenance on my saws is as follows: after every use, I blow out the air filters with a compressor, and check the sprocket area for caked up sawdust. If it is caked up, I remove the sprocket cover and scrape the crud out with a screwdriver. Nothing fancy, just get the chunks out. I also tighten the chains after the saws are cool, grease the bar sprokect, and refill them with gas and oil. If I change a bar, I will reset the oiler on the saw if it has one. I tend to run them heavy; like STK says, more oil is better.
Next level of maintenence is sharpening. Once a chain gets semi-dull I will sharpen it on tha saw with a hand file and guide, usually after a few hours of use, but it depends on the wood I am cutting. I also have a mini-12 volt grinding wheel sharpener if I am in a hurry. Hardwoods dull chains faster than softwoods. Every other chain sharpening I will take the chain off and flip the bar over. Also check the bar for burrs. If there are any burs or nicks, I file them down with a flat file. Some bar manufactures recommend a 45 degree filing of burs, others say flat file them. Either way, file off the burrs. I also file the rakers every 2-3 sharpenings. One pass is usually enough with a flat file (these are the tangs in front of the cutters that set the depth of the cuts).
Next level of maintenence is seasonal; 4 times a year. I will pop the sprocket off and clean out the clutch and inside of the sprocket of sawdust and oil. I grease the needle bearings them as well. Just a small dab on the crankshaft is fine. I also take the air filter off and blow it out and soak it in hot soapy water and let it air dry. I also check the carbs for adjustment and look over the saw for lose bolts, dings and problems. I also take the filters off the oil and gas intakes and blow them out and/or soak them in white gas (Colemen fuel). I also take the muffler screens off and clean them out. They can get caked up with crud and cause all kinds of problems.
Once a year I change the spark plugs on the saws, and look inside the combustion chamber. Usually in the course of a year a saw will lose a starter rope, or throw a chain and break a catcher, or lose some parts that have to be replaced, like the summer-winter flippy thingeys. Which reminds me, at some time in the year you may have to change the saws over from summer to winter mode, or back again. There are several options for this on different saws. On most Stihls it means moving a plastic baffle plate and maybe flipping a rubber plug from one position to another. Usually they control the airflow to the intake of the carberator to keep it from icing up in winter.
