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Here's a a couple of the toolbox I use as a case for my new MS201T.

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It's amazing how perfectly it fits this saw with a 14 inch bar but it would probably work well with any small top handled saw. You can get them at Home Depot or Lowes for $30-35 and I really like the water tight seal they have. You don't have to worry if it starts raining or about your tools drawing damp if it sits outside.

My Dad and I built a wooden box (no lid) to hold the XL-2 many years ago. I'll see if I can get a picture of it up.

-Eric
 
if you will.

Man, I gotta say that I know nothing about making nails into rivets but I have access to a metal shop and want to learn, cause doing justice to a cool case like that will definately involve rivets. Can ya school me on that a bit?

Okay, I promised more detail. First of all when I say rivets I am talking about old-school solid metal rivets, not those new-fangled pop rivets (although many people used them to construct roadie cases). I was going to write a brief description of how I made rivets out of nails, but a quick web search found that someone has already done an excellent job. How to peen a rivet. His explanation is almost identical to my procedure, but I’ll ad a few tips I’ve learned.

First I heat the nails red hot and let them cool slowly, to soften the steel. Then I work the head of the nail with a ball-peen hammer to make it more dome shaped. I drilled a hole in a piece of steel plate slightly larger than the shaft of the nail (if it’s too small you won’t get the nail back out) to support the underside of the nail. Then I hold the nail in a vice and tap away with the ball-peen hammer. Once the head is formed, I cut the nail to length—a little more than half the diameter of the nail longer than the pieces to be joined. It’s a lot simpler to use ready-made rivets like the ones in the first picture of the article.

I shape the other end like the article says, except I use the ball end of the hammer from the start. I get better control with that end—less damage to the surrounding wood. Many tapping blows work better than fewer hard hits. Practice on some scrap, it doesn’t take long to learn.
I’ve even riveted a chainsaw chain with a small ball-peen hammer, but I don’t recommend it. It’s easy to end up with a stiff joint.

Good luck,
Ernie
 
Here's a a couple of the toolbox I use as a case for my new MS201T.

It's amazing how perfectly it fits this saw with a 14 inch bar but it would probably work well with any small top handled saw. You can get them at Home Depot or Lowes for $30-35 and I really like the water tight seal they have. You don't have to worry if it starts raining or about your tools drawing damp if it sits outside.

My Dad and I built a wooden box (no lid) to hold the XL-2 many years ago. I'll see if I can get a picture of it up.

-Eric

I like that box, even though it's plastic. I may get one for my 011. It will be much easier than making another wooden one.

Ernie
 
Here is the box I put together for my ms460. I work at a firetruck manufacturer and have access to lots of shiny aluminum:msp_smile:
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Andy when are you going to enter that one for Robot Wars? :hmm3grin2orange:
 
I like that box, even though it's plastic. I may get one for my 011. It will be much easier than making another wooden one.

Ernie

I trimmed a couple inches off the end of the tray that the toolbox comes with so it will fit in front of the hand guard over the bar. You have to leave enough to catch on the supports that hold that end of the tray though.

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I also want to make some type of divider for down in the bottom of the box to keep stuff from shifting under where the saw needs to sit. But I haven't figured out what to make it out of or how to attach it to the box without putting holes in it.

-Eric
 
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I don't need a stinking box for my saws, just chuck them in the back with the other ####.

EMsaws005.jpg


Nothing better than stale fuel to limit the number of people who want to ride with you.
 
I don't need a stinking box for my saws, just chuck them in the back with the other ####.

Nothing better than stale fuel to limit the number of people who want to ride with you.

Not to mention what happens if you stop too fast.

-Eric
 
Thanks Ernie

I appreciate all the answers and puttin up with all the Qs. Good info. I will be able to put one together for my saws and thanks for the schoolin on the rivets, I havn't worked around rivets and wouldn't have thought of them.

Great box. If ya make any more please post them.

Old Blue
In the land of "We have to sign the bill to see whats in it"
Where else but....Kali-bone-ya
 
chain loops

I use a military ammo can and put them in cloth pouches.

I have a storage solution for extra bars also. Ill take pics and post again.
 
I don't need a stinking box for my saws, just chuck them in the back with the other ####.

EMsaws005.jpg


Nothing better than stale fuel to limit the number of people who want to ride with you.

I see one thing in that picture that would concern me. If the saw on the right was to fall down a bit and make a connection on that battery it could make for a nasty magnesium car fire. That would be scary. Just trying to look out for my fellow man. Nice saw box otherwise.
 
bar holder

This holds a few bars and is water tight. 4" PVC cap at one end plug at the other. It can bounce around the truck without hurting bars.View attachment 229078
 
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Not a box but I like the ideas

I've been using a Bucket Buddy from Home Depot on a 5 gal orange HD bucket. Easy to spot, and lots of pockets to put stuff in. You can put a wedge or two in the bucket along with boxes of spare chain, stuff your chaps and helmet in it, and drop in a spare bar as well. At times if I know I'm not going to do a lot of work, I'll add a quart of bar oil and my fuel bottle full of premix. When I get to the site, I gas and oil up my saw and then fill the spare tanks and carry it all wherever I need to go.

My saws have been riding in back of the back seat with a scabbard over the bars. But after my Highlander was taken out of action in January, I now drive a '97 Dakota to the woods. Last week I picked up a 4' aluminum truck box of of CL for $75, and I'm working out the J-bolts to mount it in the front of the truck bed. With the box, I can put the bed cap on without interference if needed, or I can loosen the J-bolts and just slide the whole rig to the back of the truck if I want to. I think that is going to work well for me. And I might add a tray or two from Lowe's in the top of the box. The bucket buddy fits too.

It's a good idea for anyone with saws in the passenger area to use a box. I didn't have one in my Highlander, and the 261 hit something so hard it broke through the end of the scabbard in addition to bending both the bar and the chain. Nothing else broke though, so it was an easy fix and covered by the other guy's insurance. But you sure don't want a 15 lb saw becoming a missle in the back of your car. Especially if it is wearing a sharp chain.
 
I don't need a stinking box for my saws, just chuck them in the back with the other ####.

EMsaws005.jpg


Nothing better than stale fuel to limit the number of people who want to ride with you.

Wow. So this is what it's like to peer into the future and know how someone is going to die. If the blunt force trauma doesn't do the job the blood loss sure will. Ever consider one of those divider cages they use for dogs?
 
Where's your Dad get the corner protectors and cover latches? I've been looking online for about 2 hours now .... :help:

corner protectors look homemade and pop-riveted in. just a triangle with 2 sides turned up.

latches look like a modern snowmobile/atv version of the old bungee-ball hood latches. any latch would work, really...
 
The latches come from McMaster Carr.McMaster-Carr

beelsr is correct on the corner protectors, just some sheet aluminum bent and drilled.

Thanks for the interest, ill let him know you like them.

Jim.
 
Found an old metal milk crate, works great for the oil jug and the gas can. Sears always has some sort of 13-18" sized tool bag on sale for 5-10 bucks. They work great for holding some extra tools, chain loops(in the boxes), ear plugs and muffs, and some file kits. The saws get toted in the stihl cases.
 
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